87 OMC Ford 460 carb and intake upgrade?

20ft Senator

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I'm looking to upgrade my intake manifold and possibly my carb my 1987 20 foot Checkmate Senator with a OMC ford 460 powerplant. I'm currently using a 1 inch Wilson carb spacer on a stock iron intake with a Holley 4160 650cfm carb. The first question is what manifold. If I get a Edelbrock Performer ( Idle-5500), I can still use my Wilson spacer.

OR

There's the Performer RPM air gap that is .500 taller and has a power band 1500-6500rpm. If I go this rout, the Wilson spacer gets tossed in the extra parts pile and my preferable rpm range window is smaller.

The next question is should I dump the stock 4160 650cfm carb and upgrade to a 750 cfm Holley 4160 or 4150??????

My gut tells me to go with the idle-5500rpm Performer intake, Wilson carb spacer, and stock 650 carb. Any thoughts?? As far as I know, the engine is stock except for the 1 inch Wilson carb spacer, Pertronix Flame thrower ignition and coil. With my current setup she ran a top speed of 70.89mph at 5000rpm with a 23 pitch Viper prop.
 

HT32BSX115

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Dec 8, 2005
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10,083
I'm looking to upgrade my intake manifold and possibly my carb my 1987 20 foot Checkmate Senator with a OMC ford 460 powerplant. I'm currently using a 1 inch Wilson carb spacer on a stock iron intake with a Holley 4160 650cfm carb. The first question is what manifold. If I get a Edelbrock Performer ( Idle-5500), I can still use my Wilson spacer.

OR

There's the Performer RPM air gap that is .500 taller and has a power band 1500-6500rpm. If I go this rout, the Wilson spacer gets tossed in the extra parts pile and my preferable rpm range window is smaller.

The next question is should I dump the stock 4160 650cfm carb and upgrade to a 750 cfm Holley 4160 or 4150??????

My gut tells me to go with the idle-5500rpm Performer intake, Wilson carb spacer, and stock 650 carb. Any thoughts?? As far as I know, the engine is stock except for the 1 inch Wilson carb spacer, Pertronix Flame thrower ignition and coil. With my current setup she ran a top speed of 70.89mph at 5000rpm with a 23 pitch Viper prop.
Howdy,


Welcome aboard!

Hard to say if a slightly larger CFM carburetor will improve the performance of a stock 460. The camshaft (unless you changed it) is really configured for 5000 RPM or less (actually the OMC recommended MAX RPM is 4800 I think)

Now, having said that, My previously installed OMG 460 did run at 5000 rpm and I would get a respectable 60+ MPH at that RPM with a 19p SS prop (repitched to 20)

I think you're pretty much getting all you're gonna get out of a 460. I would suggest saving your money for when you need manifolds or a coupler!!


Regards,


Rick
 

20ft Senator

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Thanks Ric​k
The thing runs flawless so something tells me leave it alone for now! It doesn't look like it's ever been apart so I assume it's all stock inside. I love the boat and have two extra complete dog clutch outdrives so I'm keeping the OMC. I'll probably go through the motor next winter just because I don't know what it looks like inside. I'd like to get 73 out of it without tearing up my outdrives. Any recommendations on a good cam for a rebuild?

Mike
 

HT32BSX115

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Dec 8, 2005
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10,083
Thanks Ric​k
The thing runs flawless so something tells me leave it alone for now! It doesn't look like it's ever been apart so I assume it's all stock inside. I love the boat and have two extra complete dog clutch outdrives so I'm keeping the OMC. I'll probably go through the motor next winter just because I don't know what it looks like inside. I'd like to get 73 out of it without tearing up my outdrives. Any recommendations on a good cam for a rebuild?

Mike

Howdy Mike,


Well, You would want to select a cam that is "RV" type or "truck" etc.... You want to be able to run about 5500 or less....... A Cobra (and any other stock Mercruiser etc) really wants to turn 5500 or less. You can make a LOT of HP at 5500.

My brother bought my 87 Four Winns Liberator new with the 460/Cobra. In the 90's he had the engine rebuilt after a freeze "incident" (he didn't drain the block because it never freezes in Ca!!!) Amazingly, his insurance paid for the damage.

The Shop (in Redding, Ca) that did the engine was sort of a Big Block Ford specialist. He put a different cam in the engine but I don't think he did much else. He stayed with the OEM carb. Evidently it was big enough. He also didn't put a different intake manifold on it.

You would want to be fairly careful how much power you run though I would think. I don't think you can break the Cobra that was designed to go behind the 460................ I would be afraid of spinning the coupler. They're anywhere from $420-500 and you have to pull the engine to replace them.......



Have you tried to find manifolds? I haven't looked for manifolds for about 10 years.

When I pulled the 460 and Cobra drive out of my Liberator in 2006, Couplers were not available at all at any price. Exhaust Manifolds were new old-stock only and scarce. I could only find one at a time and they were around $1600. There were welded SS manifolds but they cost more than an engine rebuild. And without a coupler I was dead in the water........

That's when I decided to look for a replacement engine + drive.

I paid $5000 for a complete 1997 454, Bravo III package (with 120hrs since new) complete with controls and gages out of a 98 24ft Bayliner that had a tree fall across the bow. The install was pretty easy. All the holes in the drive cut-out match (except I had to drill 2 additional holes for the Bravo gimbal)


It's a tad slower in top speed, 55-57 now ( 60 before).........but now, it comes out of the hole like a ski boat. Not bad for a boat that weighs around 4500lbs........
(I suspect I could get more speed if I rebuilt the engine and removed the rev-limiter [4700] )

By the way, I was able to sell all the OMC "stuff" over a 2-3 year period including the dissembled engine($150) for a total of $3500 (the BIG Cobra drives are pretty valuable....I got $1400 for the drive alone.) .......... So if you ever decide to switch to a Mercruiser BB + Bravo I/III, Selling all the OMC "stuff" would net you a lot if you were patient. I shipped my drive all the way to the East Coast.

I am sure you know this ..........but when ever you change your drive oil, make absolutely sure you fill the drive in accordance with the OMC service manual. (via the "FILL" port,....NOT the drain port.........lot of people have come to iBoats asking why their drives self destructed (after an oil change) AND Don't let any dealer change it either (unless you can be certain they know what they're doing!!! My brother had 2 different dealers fill his wrong and both ended up replacing the drive!!)
 
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20ft Senator

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Jan 23, 2016
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You want to spend how much for 2.11mph? :confused:

Hell yeah! If you want to play ,you have to pay. Plus it's a enjoyable winter hobby to get my boat fix. I'm by no means rich, but I've managed to provide a comfortable life for myself with just a high school diploma as a CNC machinist. Being a machinist for 33 years might explain my crazy ideas to some!! I tend to travel with the boat a lot , so knowing everything internally is new puts my mind at ease. There is no hour meter so I have no idea on usage. Thanks for the input!! I like hearing from the "did that done that" crowd!

Mike
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Jul 23, 2011
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I would take your GPS reading with a tail wind going with the current to get your extra 2.11mph.

All kidding aside, you could pull the intake and heads, port match everything, polish the combustion chambers and the exhaust ports, then get a valve job as you would have muffed the valve seats up with the porting and polishing. go with a bit more cam duration, however do not exceed 268 degrees.

Then dontact hitek in Australia and have a set of stainless headers made because as indicated, manifolds are as rare as hens teeth.

Now you should have about an extra 60-80hp available. and your new problem will be finding couplers.
 

HT32BSX115

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Then dontact hitek in Australia and have a set of stainless headers made because as indicated, manifolds are as rare as hens teeth.

Now you should have about an extra 60-80hp available. and your new problem will be finding couplers.
Couplers are available now from Sierra. https://www.google.com/search?q=OMC+460+Cobra+coupler&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8


The following site has a kit that uses adapter-plates with 454 manifolds. http://www.manifoldwarehouse.com/mes/mgr?brch=mesprod&pno=hge-460kclr

If the above sources were available when I was looking, I might still have that OMG460 in my Liberator!!:eek::eek:
 

20ft Senator

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Jan 23, 2016
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I purchased my spare coupler from marineengine dot com a few years back, although I think Napa can get Sierra products. Never saw the manifold adapters before. I LIKE!! Thanks for the info! Just getting rid of the intake and exhaust cast iron should lighten her up about 100 lbs! There's .0357mph!
 

vasy

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Dec 14, 2014
Messages
193
I was reading others posting their results and if all you change is a body and the carb on a good running engine, all you would get is higher fuel burn with out any measurable power increase, You can't really increase RPM for fear of blowing the stock outdrive. You would need to produce more power in the mid range and re-gear outdrive to spin a prop at a different ratio. Probably not worth on the old boat unless have lots of spare money... But if you do have lots of spare money, why not sell and buy a faster boat?
 
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