86 force 125 trim /tilt bleed down

[mikes 86]

trim and tilt bleeds down after raised, have read other posts not sure where pilot valves are located. i believe at bottom of pump, if this is location please indicate. my pump has small snap ring at each end . would like to have info on how to remove and repair, would be greatfull for any HELP, THANKS...

 

[Mwp909]

Re: 86 force 125 trim /tilt bleed down

If your unit is like mine there is a sleeve at the top of the shaft in your cylinder. This sleeve is held in with a small pin. Tap out the pin and remove the sleeve. Your tilt trim indicator is on the outside of this sleeve. You also have a sleeve at the bottom of the cylinder and motor. It is also held in with a pin. Remove that pin and remove the sleeve. Your unit will now slide out.
On the front of your motor there is a screw/nut, this is your fill point. On the lower right side of the motor is a nylon screw; this is your drain.
New cylinders are pricy, if you can find them. Rebuild kits are about $50.00. Atleast that was the case for me.
Make notes on where your power cords go.

Hope this helps

 

[mikes 86]

Re: 86 force 125 trim /tilt bleed down

Mwp909 thank you for your response, does not sound like you have same unit as i do. my unit is standard force 125 outboard model, 3wire motor, fluid reservoir, and hydraulic pump. area under pump is where i need info on,4 hyd. lines come from here. is this where the pilot check valves are located, if so how does it come apart mine has two snap rings one at each end looks like silver cap behind snap rings. THANKS FOR INFO

 

[Mwp909]

Re: 86 force 125 trim /tilt bleed down

Sorry I couldn?t be of help. Try posting a photo of your unit. Maybe someone could help out better if they can see what your talking about.
Good luck

 

[azlakes]

Re: 86 force 125 trim /tilt bleed down

trim and tilt bleeds down after raised, have read other posts not sure where pilot valves are located. i believe at bottom of pump, if this is location please indicate. my pump has small snap ring at each end . would like to have info on how to remove and repair, would be greatfull for any HELP, THANKS...

...hiya mike,

here is thread that has a lot of help within it.

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=260430

read it carefully and see if one of the links helps you. i can say that getting to that 1/2" bolt head on the pump bracket nearest the transom is a tight squeeze. what I did was remove the four screws that held the pump reservoir to the motor housing and gently pried it off. this gave clearance to work a socket. you'll see what I mean. it also has been mentioned that rebuilding certain models on your own has about a 50% success rate. so after weighing the options. i sent mine out to be rebuilt by a veteran of these pumps.

Good luck

 

[javsam]

Re: 86 force 125 trim /tilt bleed down

well I am not a veteran of working with these pumps but I will try to give you some guidance.There can be many reasons why the pump bleeds down on these units. One reason could be the seals are shot in the cylinders of the trim/tilt.Another, and more common reason are the seals are old and leaking in the spool valve Or some people call it the (shuttle valve).The shuttle valve is between the two pilot valves and moves between them .You are correct in thinking that the pilot valves are located on the bottom of the pump and held in by snap rings. to remove them simply take out the snap rings and run the pump,this will force one of them to move out.Next use a drive pin and gently tap through the pilot valve body,this will push out the shuttle valve as well as the other pilot valve.Once out you will need to get new HYDRUALIC o-rings at a hydraulic parts store. You will need to buy 4 (1/2") o-rings and 1 (7/16 ")o-ring.Each pilot valve gets one o-ring and the shuttle valve uses the 7/16 o-ring in the middle and a 1/2 o-ring on each end and use a lubricant when putting the o-rings over the parts.I have used vaseline. Once assembled you may have to add oil to the resevoir(30 Wt) And cycle pump a few times.

 

[mikes 86]

Re: 86 force 125 trim /tilt bleed down

my thanks to azlakes and javsam, great information was able to dismantle and rebuild works fine now. again thanks for help.

 

[javsam]

Re: 86 force 125 trim /tilt bleed down

Thats great. Thats what so nice about working on force motors,simple to repair.Their motors got a bum rap,but in reality they were good motors.

 

[clanton]

Re: 86 force 125 trim /tilt bleed down

Aftre you remove the valve, you have to take it apart, the end cap is steel soak in hot water and you can pry the cap off, inside you will find a needle that looks like a carb float needle, the seal in the end of needle causes the leakdown. The pn for that part is on a post last few days.

 

[RRitt]

Re: 86 force 125 trim /tilt bleed down

If you damage or distort the aluminum check valve housing then your pump may not work for very long. 125HP is at the upper limit of the 1986 design. The cap needs to be a very firm and solid press fit back into the aluminum. If not then it may pop off under pressure.

Go get a lawnmower wrench made from a flat piece of steel. The "some assembly required" wrenches that have four or five different sizes stamped into one piece of steel are perfect. Find the 7/16" slot. The steel plate is probably too thick so file or grind it down so that your check valve groove just fits into it. Use this tool too gently but firmly hold the steel cap while you twist and pull the aluminum free. Do not use a rocking motion and do not use a amllet. If you distort the aluminum then you might harm your pump.

Additional areas of concern-
a. with a very fine detail file make sure that the oring grooves are clean and free from burrs.
b. make sure that the edges of channel are free from debris and burrs prior to reassembly.
c. check valve should push in easily and smoothly until last 1/8" inch. The last 1/8" should pop into place with modest thumb pressure. If not, then remove valve and lightly sand outer lip of channel. (if you have cylinder hone of sufficiantly small diameter then all of this is moot. hone the cylinder before reassy. and let the blades ride out onto bevel)
d. inspect retaining clip groove. If there is debris and the retaining ring pops out during use then you probably just cost yourself $300 because the slider piston with nipples (aka shuttle valve) is not replaceable. Lost it and your pump is DOA.
e. just leave the top half alone. it probably isn't broken and you probably don't have the tools to measure and adjust the pressure. The only reason to split the halves at home is if a port has stripped threads. Underneath the bypass valve there is a cavity where metal shaving could collect. If you generate metal shavings then you need to extract the bypass valve using an extremely powerful magnet. If you try to extract it using the center hole then you'll probably distort the hole and completely disrupt the pressure settings. If you do not distort the center hole then you can carefully reassemble EXACTLY like it was before and probably be just fine.