8 hp Johnson...no spark

Bullie

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I have a J8SRLCDE that has no spark to either wire. Compression is 125 lbs both cylinders.

I get no spark at all on my tester or by grounding plugs. This is my first time with an ignition problem of this type so I am all ears....errrrr eyes.
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My first thought was to pull the flywheel as there is no fire to either plug. Better to start with some good information though... what is the first thing to check?
 

Vic.S

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First things to check if there are no sparks at all are the stop switch and all connections.

if stop switch Ok then more likely to be the CD power pack than anything under the flywheel.

Find and read the troubleshooting guide on the CDI Electronics website

You will need a DVA adapter for a multimeter ( or an expensive meter with a peak reading range) to do any checking though ........ Google will find a circuit if you want to make one
 
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Bullie

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Thanks. I don't see a stop switch of any kind on this motor though. I haven't the connections or looked for worn wires yet. That could easily be it. I guess I was thinking corrosion on the magnets as being a possible cause.
 

gm280

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Is this engine actually installed on a boat or on a test stand? If it is already installed on a boat, is all the correct wiring and controls installed for that particular engine as well? Because of the kill switch wiring and other wires that can keep an engine from firing if not wired or working properly. So before getting too involved, make sure everything IS connected properly and if it still won't fire, then start a trouble-shooting procedure. Knowing how your engine is wired and how it works will certainly help in finding what is wrong. A good manufacture specific, year and HP specific shop manual will give you all those answers.
 

Bullie

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The motor is on a stand. I do not see a kill switch.
 

Bullie

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I checked it out as you guys suggested. I don't see anything loose or corroded. All the ignition system looks either new or freshly cleaned. Of course I don't know if an actual mechanic or someone like me has been fooling with it... I just picked it up this past weekend but I am guessing I am not the first one to work on this puzzle. I don't have the meter you suggested yet. A suitable meter would be as much as I have in the motor. I want to learn all I can but the ignition stuff/electricity is like Chinese algebra to me.





 

racerone

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Any wires going into the tiller handle.---Stop switch on the end of the handle.----Lanyard clip in place ??????
 

Vic.S

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The motor is on a stand. I do not see a kill switch.
The stop switch is combined with the idle speed control knob on the end of the tiller. Check it or its wires are not shorting

It does not have had a safety lanyard type of kill switch AFAIK, unless one has been added ,

Not sure I like the look of the stator coils,, but they are the battery charging coils, not part of the ignition, It could be that they are fried and the rectifier toasted!

The HT ignition coils look Ok ... possible but not likely that both would have failed.

Not sure what plugs you have in there, Autolite ?. The correct plugs are Champion QL77JC4 or QL86C. Make sure at least that they are not resistor plugs. The correct ones are inductively suppressed ( thats what the Q indicates in the Champion number)

I see it has a replacement CDI electronics CD power pack ... hopefully good


I hope you realise that this is the Sail version ( S in the model number). I'm not sure of all the differences from the standard model. Low pitch ( 6 ?" ), high thrust prop and long shaft almost certainly. A modified exhaust system I think to allow deeper immersion of the prop and better reverse thrust. The battery charging may only be standard on the "S" models

Interesting to see under the flywheel as I have the 1984, 6hp Evinrude version of the same thing. Never taken the flywheel off and hope it will see me out without having to.
Make sure you correctly torque the retaining nut when you refit it.


BTW the correct fuel mix is 50:1 even if it has 100:1 decals
 
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Bullie

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Great info as usual. I was missing the kill switch completely. I bought another 1986 model motor this weekend...same button. It can be disconnected somewhere so I can check it? By the way...the other 86 model, a 15 hp, has the same problem. No spark.

The plugs are what was in it when I bought it. I have the correct ones or will get some more. Yeah, I was aware that its a SailMaster. It even has a silhouette of a sailboat on the side of the cowl. Like you said, it has a really big prop on it.

Anyway, I bought it from a guy that was also selling his sailboat. He had it and a 1995 4 hp long shaft Suzuki. I don't know that the Suzuki had ever been started. It is super clean under the top. I washed it off a little, put some gas in the tank ( I think it was the first time any gas had been put in...there weren't even any gas lines) and a little in the hole for good measure and it popped right off and ran. Sometimes you get lucky.
 
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Bullie

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Exactly! Like I mentioned, this is my first time with an issue on this ignition system. I am excited about learning more but I was surprised when I go through my routine on a newly purchased motor when I didn't get spark. I expect it on any points motor I buy...but, this was a first for me. Weird that the other motor is also not getting any spark either....same year model...different hp.
 

Bullie

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Not trying to confuse anyone but I had the 1986 15 hp on the stand to clean and like I said...no spark. I took the grip assembly off to inspect the wires from the kill switch... apparently someone had done the same thing in the past as the indicator line on the grip assembly was on the bottom. 180 degrees from where it should be. I see that one of the wires from the kill switch is grounded behind the upper coil. If I remove that wire from behind the coil and then pull the starter would that give me the information I need to eliminate the kill switch as the reason for no spark on either cylinder?
 

Vic.S

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I see that one of the wires from the kill switch is grounded behind the upper coil. If I remove that wire from behind the coil and then pull the starter would that give me the information I need to eliminate the kill switch as the reason for no spark on either cylinder?
If you disconnect it it will check the switch but only if you check that the wires are not accidentally grounding somewhere
 
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