75 hp Chrysler I.D. and questions.

[Tnstratofam]

I'm trying to determine the age of my outboard. It is on an 82 Starcraft, and I think it is original to the boat. Here is a picture of the motor I.D. tag.



Also the exhaust water hose ( not sure if that is the correct wording ) is leaking just a bit of water into the leg when it is running. I'm not sure if this is normal, and there never seems to be more than a few inches of water in the bottom. Here are a few picture.

 

[Tnstratofam]

Re: 75 hp Chrysler I.D. and questions.

A few more questions. I want to add a water pressure or water temp gauge, or a combination of the two as well as possibly a tell tale. Is this the correct place to look at adding any water fittings, and can I run these things in series off this one spot on the motor.

Pics.






In this next pic you can see the timing blocks to the distributor have been rigged with zip ties. They adjust correctly, and I've checked my timing my question is are these blocks available any where or should I just leave well enough alone?



One last question. I need to adjust my idle air mixture screw. I think you turn them all the way in and then come out 1 and 1/2 turns. Is this right?

Pics.



Hope I didn't ask too much at one time. I appreciate all the help in advance.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: 75 hp Chrysler I.D. and questions.

A photo of the lower unit and cowl would help because I don't have model number charts. perhaps someone else with these charts will chime in.

At any rate, I don't think the engine is an 82 because it has a distributor. By 1982 Chrysler had gone to Prestolite non-distributor ignition. Depending upon lower unit, it could be anywhere from 1970s on up to 1980.

The black plastic blocks are toast. Do yourself a favor and replace them. Some guys make their own from billet aluminum, however, the same plastic pieces were used up until the 1990s. So if you go to another source --boats dot net-- you should be able to buy them.

Why do you need to adjust the low speed needles? Adjusting them incorrectly is a fast way to destroy the engine. You do start at about 1 1/4 turns out However, do NOT adjust too lean in an effort to get a good idle--this will lead to detonation at or near full throttle. Better to simply leave them set at 1 turn out.

The stainless plug at the top of the head is an excellent spot for a pisser fitting--IF you can get it out. If not, you can always drill and tap the boss directly behind it.

 

[Tnstratofam]

Re: 75 hp Chrysler I.D. and questions.

Sorry. Here are some shots of the engine. The problem may be that I put a different lower unit on it last fall. The lower units looked virtually the same though.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: 75 hp Chrysler I.D. and questions.

The lower unit is a one piece lower unit which would place the engine later than 1979.

 

[Tnstratofam]

Re: 75 hp Chrysler I.D. and questions.

Thanks Frank. I'm still searching the old interweb looking for motor data that may give me the powerhead's age. I've got some carb issues I'm working on as well. The two main concerns I had was the water in the leg coming from the exhaust hose in the pics above, and the timing blocks on the distributor. Like I said the I set the timing and synched the carbs according to the sticky you made. Everything is ready to go. I just cleaned the carbs, and I'm ready to get her back in the water. The water in the leg has me a bit concerned.

 

[MickLovin]

Re: 75 hp Chrysler I.D. and questions.

It is a 1982 model, the water boot you are talking about probably has a failing spring clamp around it, don't use a metal clamp like I did, they don't sit right, you have to use the same type of clamp as you pull out off the exhaust/water boot, it isn't a great concern, but I would fix it otherwise you may have water spraying your plugs like I had. I had the 1980 model and had my carbies set at 1 1/8, but yours may be different. to do this properly though you have to find the center point (after having it ping (lean) and gallop (rich) at low idle in forward) of each carbie and set them to the average of the set point on all of them.
But more importantly, buy a manual.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Re: 75 hp Chrysler I.D. and questions.

82 there is a thread at the top of the Force forum for setting up your carbs.
The top screw you indicated is where you can install a pressure or temp gauge.
I used a stainless hose clamp to fix the exhaust boot. No problems.
Frank,Master Tech Marine has a guide to find the year.

 

[Tnstratofam]

Re: 75 hp Chrysler I.D. and questions.

Thank you all for the help. You all are always on top of your game. You are correct Mick I need a manual. Had one ordered, and was later told it was out of stock. I'm really trying to find a Clymer versus a Seloc if a can. I am looking at a 105hp to purchase for a rebuild later today. The fun begins.

 

[MickLovin]

Re: 75 hp Chrysler I.D. and questions.

Hey mate, I loved my old 75HP it was an 80 model, but yours looks bare down at the prop, get a nose cone and flare, just looks better LOLOL

 

[MickLovin]

Re: 75 hp Chrysler I.D. and questions.



That is my 76 model with a two piece gear box, the one in the last post was my 80 model, notice the cowl difference, they went away from style to a cowl with a f.....g sticker LOL, the 76 model cost me $200 and it actually ran better than my 80 model, but the exhaust gasket between the head and leg went, so I just put the 80 model back on, then bought my 100hp for $350, I couldn't believe how immaculate it was and grabbed it after he had $590 on it. Because I had my 75's I knew what to offer. I will never have another 100hp Chrysler that immaculate in my lifetime.

 

[Tnstratofam]

Re: 75 hp Chrysler I.D. and questions.

View attachment 231421Hey mate, I loved my old 75HP it was an 80 model, but yours looks bare down at the prop, get a nose cone and flare, just looks better LOLOL

Yeah I know Mick I've been looking for a cone to make the lower end a little more snazzy. The 105 I'm going to check out tomorrow doesn't have a cowl or a prop, and is supposed to have a blown head. I'm hoping it can be rebuilt, or at least good for spare parts. I'm thinking this could become an obsession with me. I've found myself checking the web for old Chrysler engines lately. I met a local boat repair guy who's dad was a Chrysler Marine dealer here in Tennessee back in the 70's. He is keeping his eyes out for me for any old engines that show up. There are a few around on the lakes in these parts, and I always try to make it a point to talk to the boat owners who have them when I get a chance.

I do like the look of the older cowls. They look much nicer than the stickered ones. In reality I like them all though.

 

[MickLovin]

Re: 75 hp Chrysler I.D. and questions.

Me too mate, I loved my old Chryslers they were so easy to work on, unless your mechanically minded I wouldn't bother with the 105, if you wait and research, you will pick up a better one for maybe the same price. I bought my 100hp for $350 aus, because the bloke didn't like the Chryslers, all fool him when now he has problems with his 90hp evinrude

 

[MickLovin]

Re: 75 hp Chrysler I.D. and questions.

Oh BTW thanks for the pics of yours, brings back memories.

 

[jbcurt00]

Closed

Andrew, start a new topic about your Chrysler OB. .
Thanks