gcleehusker
Cadet
- Joined
- Aug 19, 2008
- Messages
- 6
My old distributor body was overheating and causing my engine to shut down with the cowling on - on the 1971 Merc 1350, it also had an intermittent spark. The new body (trigger) is now installed and it runs fine on the muffs but bogs on the water when the throttle opens, and I've adjusted the idle mix. It ran fine before, if a little off because I must rebuild my carbs this week, but I expected it to at least run. I've got the base timing set at 2% per the manual and the max advance set at 18%--tried 21%, but no difference and I want to be safe with the 18%. Since the last successful run, I've added a lead substitute (tec6000) for the first time and am using 93 octane premium fuel. One thing that may be wrong is the orientation of the distributor disk--with no markings I had to go by the wear patterns to determine which side to face the rotor and which side to be on the bottom towards the trigger--Pretty sure I have it right, but do have a new disk on the way. My top dead center does not line up exactly, so I've tried it with the distributor gear set the half-notch forward and backwards. The forward setting was stutter-and-ping-horrible, the back setting just bogs with ANY throttle. I'm going to replace the distributor disk on the chance that the hall sensor is confused with the old disk (it's a bit green but thought it would do the job). I am getting spark on all six cylinders (checked with timing light) and have 130psi plus of compression on all six. I've got a new CDI switch/coil combo that worked prior to the trigger replacement. I hope that with spark on all cylinders, the trigger is working. I've seen the trigger troubleshooting for this model and, since all six are firing, don't see the problem that relates to my situation for testing the trigger. Is it possible that the spark is so good now that my carb rebuild is just mandatory? Could I have the disk in upside down? Could I have assembled wrong. Any thoughts?