Bubbles Up
Petty Officer 2nd Class
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2009
- Messages
- 106
Hi All,
In the never ending quest to get my 1979 7.5 Merc to quit stalling. I had a look at the kill switch wiring ,low and behold I can pick chunks of the insulation off with my fingernail to reveal oxidized copper strands. I did a temp repair with heat shrink and the motor seemed to run better.The dealer wants my left arm for a new switch.I was at the local parts store and found a push start engine switch (momentary contact) that is water proofs ,fits perfectly, and looks stock. The switch is normally in the OFF position and when pressed it is ON .It should kill the spark.
The switch from the factory was wired with #12 all I have on hand is #14 in factory colours! I figure with some U-spade lugs and some heat shrink should do the trick .
Any issues between using the #14 as opposed to the #12.
Your input is always appreciated.
TIA.
Bubbles Up ~ constantly stalling
In the never ending quest to get my 1979 7.5 Merc to quit stalling. I had a look at the kill switch wiring ,low and behold I can pick chunks of the insulation off with my fingernail to reveal oxidized copper strands. I did a temp repair with heat shrink and the motor seemed to run better.The dealer wants my left arm for a new switch.I was at the local parts store and found a push start engine switch (momentary contact) that is water proofs ,fits perfectly, and looks stock. The switch is normally in the OFF position and when pressed it is ON .It should kill the spark.
The switch from the factory was wired with #12 all I have on hand is #14 in factory colours! I figure with some U-spade lugs and some heat shrink should do the trick .
Any issues between using the #14 as opposed to the #12.
Your input is always appreciated.
TIA.
Bubbles Up ~ constantly stalling