'62' 40hp Lark IV Selecric {Shift} trouble

[Trojanman]

Howdy all, nice place!<br /><br />Have a 1962 Evinrude Lark IV Selectric Shift, Model# 35933.<br /><br />Last season the motor stopped shifting. When I put it in gear the motor would bog down or stall. Although I found out I was using the wrong oil, it did work up till then.<br /><br />So I took the lower unit off and tore it down. All looked good, so I cleaned it up and put it all back together, using the correct oil this time.<br /><br />After bolting up the lower unit I tested the coils for opperation, heard them clicking and confirmed it with a test light, motor not running.<br /><br />So, hooked up the water muff and fired the motor, runs great by the way! Tried shifting and the prop didn't turn, ?! <br /><br />Not sure how to tell if the shaft went into the spline or not but didn't have any resistance when bolting up the lower unit.<br /><br />What could be wrong?

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: '62' 40hp Lark IV Selecric {Shift} trouble

Disconnect the two wires leading to the lower unit at the engine.<br /><br />Battery jumpers..... connect the negative jumper lead to a engine ground (anywhere). One by one, connect the positive jumper to one of the wires leading to the lower unit.<br /><br />When you do the above, the prop should grab in one direction, posibly slipping in the other direction. The opposite being true of jumping to the other wire.<br /><br />If the prop does not grab, something is wrong either with that shifting wire or within the lower unit.<br /><br />Not having any resistance in installing the lower unit..... you were either lucky in matching the D/S to C/S splines or you have installed the wrong (too short) driveshaft. Let us know what you find.

 

[Trojanman]

Re: '62' 40hp Lark IV Selecric {Shift} trouble

Hi Joe, thanks for the response!<br /><br />Battery jumpers:<br />Did that before, but, as you suggested, did it again. Lol, guess what, this time they didn't work!<br /><br />What I found:<br /><br />Well, took the lower unit back off and was thinking that maybe the spline at the powerhead was stripped, it's good. I never changed the shaft, it's the same one. But in the process I got to thinking about how crusty the wireloom was leading to the lower unit, didn't realize how much the exaust would effect it. The wires were fused together! Should there be a plate of sorts in there that protects the loom?<br /><br />Also, went ahead and popped the impeller housing off to find that the wall of the housing that the blades of the impeller rub against is damaged, sorta imploded at one point! No idea how that could have happened. Time to go shopping.<br /><br />BTW, guess I got lucky with the spline : )

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: '62' 40hp Lark IV Selecric {Shift} trouble

That shift wire is supposed to have a insulating nylon sleeve that slides over it. I don't know if it's still available or not though.

 

[Trojanman]

Re: '62' 40hp Lark IV Selecric {Shift} trouble

Guess I could have been a bit more explicit.<br /><br />The loom going to the lower unit was repaired at some point in time. The wires were sleeved with a piece of fuel line. The wires were soldered together at the cavatation plate housing, then sleeved with something and filled with silicone, then the fuel line all the way up the the powerhead. The wires themselves were melted toghether from the cavatation plate housing up past the spacer housing, approxametley 12", and the fuel line sleeve was mighty crusty for the same length. Looks like I'll be making a similar repair.<br /><br />Saw a stripped thread hole up in the main housing that has the exaust tube in it and was thinking that it must be there for a reason, maybe a plate to protect the wires from damage?<br /><br />Wish I had some illustrations to show me what goes where, will be getting a manual when I can find one.<br /><br />BTW, will nylon except more heat from the exaust?

 

[Trojanman]

Re: '62' 40hp Lark IV Selecric {Shift} trouble

Well, found me a new impeller & housing today, $70!<br /><br />Still would like to know if there is a better sleeve material to use other than the fueline. It did last at least for the 6 years I've had the motor though.<br /><br />Any tips or tricks I should know about for putting things back together?

 

[Trojanman]

Re: '62' 40hp Lark IV Selecric {Shift} trouble

Got things all put together, still not shifting.<br /><br />Could the coils be bad?

 

[Trojanman]

Re: '62' 40hp Lark IV Selecric {Shift} trouble

Joe, believe I found my problem!<br /><br />The spline on the bottom of the shaft came off!<br /><br />This is strange, it looks as though it had been glue on, the ends that mate toghether appear to have been machined, not broken. <br /><br />If this is how it was made, how do you glue the spline to the shaft?<br /><br />If it is infact a break, would welding it back toghether be ok?

 

[CATransplant]

Re: '62' 40hp Lark IV Selecric {Shift} trouble

Sounds to me like it's time for a new shaft...or a used one. Try Twin Cities Outboard at http://www.tcoutboard.com for the used one. Be sure to provide the model number of your motor when you contact them. You might also need the motor's length. I'm not sure if that info is included in the model number.<br /><br />If the shaft broke, the two parts have been running against each other, with a little play between them. That will polish the heck out of the two pieces of metal.

 

[Trojanman]

Re: '62' 40hp Lark IV Selecric {Shift} trouble

Hey thanks Transplant and Joe! <br /><br />This is a really good motor and I'd like to keep it going. I went ahead and welded the shaft today and got it all put back together, again. Hope it lasts long enough till I get the new shaft!<br /><br />I plan to do a complete rebuild, hopefully this comming winter, sure glad there are so many people with the knowlege willing to help!!!<br /><br />I'm back on the water : )

 

[itstippy]

Re: '62' 40hp Lark IV Selecric {Shift} trouble

Don't quit posting yet Trojanman! I want to know what you finally did with the melted shift wires in the crusty sleeve. I've got my 1963 40HP Superseahorse lower off and the wires are in the same condition you describe.

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: '62' 40hp Lark IV Selecric {Shift} trouble

I'm glad to hear you found your problem Trojanman. So that's what happens when you shift a selectric into forward and reverse at the same time eh?

 

[Trojanman]

Re: '62' 40hp Lark IV Selecric {Shift} trouble

Hi Itstippy, <br /><br />For the crusty wireloom I replaced the wires, soldered the connections back on and slipped them through some 7/32" hi-temp vac hose I found at the auto parts store. High temp silicone at the repair connection, same as it was before, sept for the hose. Seemed to last for awhile so I went with it!<br /><br />Thinking when I go to do the rebuild I'll fab some type of plate to go in there to protect the loom for the future.<br /><br />LOL Paul, thanks! <br /><br />Yea, I suppose if I did that it could happen. Sure was tricky welding that spline back on, turned out pretty good for a plumber!

 

[lark2004]

Re: '62' 40hp Lark IV Selecric {Shift} trouble

What wire did you use for your new loom? If you used pvc insulated wire, get ready to do it all again. I would strongly advise that you use a silicon insulated wire for your shift wires. It won't melt from the heat inside your exaust tube.

 

[Trojanman]

Re: '62' 40hp Lark IV Selecric {Shift} trouble

Thanks for the tip Lark!<br /><br />I just used 14gage primary for now, till I go to do the full rebuild. I know there is marine rated wire but didn't spend the time to search for the right color. Didn't think of the insulation though. <br /><br />Do ya think making a new loom with marine wire and solid silicon jacket would work? Sorta copy the factory loom but made of silicon instead of rubber.

 

[lark2004]

Re: '62' 40hp Lark IV Selecric {Shift} trouble

I couldn't melt the silicon insulation I used. I tried several methods of testing the insulation before I made the new loom. It ended up being heated up with an oxy-acetalyne torch. Didn't melt the insulation.....melted the wire inside....Don't think the exaust will ever get that hot. <br /><br />N.B. "MARINE WIRE" is extreamly over priced tinned copper wire. <br />Try a hobby shop that sells parts for electric R/C race cars. That wire is able to handle over 80 amps at 7vDC. More than enough for the shift coils which run about 1.5 amps at 12vDC. ( pricey as well, but not as bad as the marine wire)