'59 5.5 not getting full RPM

[river critter]

I have a '59 5.5hp I have replaced the coils,points condensers,rebuilt the carb and replaced the water pump impeller.

I run the motor after replacing the ignition in a barrel. Then i run it after rebuilding the carb and replacing the impeller. Before it would run what sounded like wide open now it doesn't sound like it is turning up like it did befor carb rebuild even after putting it on a boat in the pond.I think i didn't get my carbs set the way they should be ,but i followed the instructions with the kit and on this site.http://outboard-boat-motor-repair.com/Johnson/Evinrude%20Johnson%205.5%20HP%201954-1964%20Carburetor%20Tune-UP.htm

When doing the final adjustment on the carb needles is it best to do it with a screwdriver or try and use the knobs on the front of the cowl?

And just how much water is supposed to come out of the exhaust/tell tale?

Any suggestions?

 

[1946Zephyr]

Re: '59 5.5 not getting full RPM

On the carb, it's best to remove the linkages from the needles and lightly seat them. Set the low speed at 1 1/2 turns out and the high speed at 3/4 out. This is a good starting point to start the engine and test run it. Chances are, you'll need to turn the high speed in 1/8 - 1/4 turn. Once you find a sweet spot, then replace your linkages on the needles at a midpoint, so you can turn them a little either way to adjust your settings.

Your motor has a thermostat, so not much water will come out the telltale, until it warms up. If the water flow is still pretty low, then you'll want to check the system for water flow. One place to start, is by removing the thermostat and checking the water flow, once you start it up. A lot of times, previous salt water use, will cause water flow issues in these smaller motors. You might need to also pull the powerhead, to check the passages between the powerhead and midsection.

When you replaced the coils, did you check and make sure that the faces are lined up with the machine surfaces perfectly? This is very important, in order to obtain a good spark to your cylinders. I usually use a utility knife blade to line these up and make sure there is absolutely no air gape on the top or bottom of the coil face, when you line it up to the machined surface.