Re: 57 18 hp kill switch conformation
oh. in that case, you'll just have to wire one in. no big whoop. start by running a lead to each set of points. I think I used 10 gauge (or was it 14 :/ blakc insulated wire? I'll check) you'll first need to drill a small hole in the armature plate to feed the leads through. guide each wire carefully behind the back of each coil and attach an eye to the wire after stripping the end a bit. then connect it to the points using the same screw that the condensers and coil wires attach too. you should end up with the coil wire, condenser, and a kill switch wire all mounted on each set of points. guide the wires toward the face of the motor and attach a female connector on each wire. you may have to drill a small (approx. 1/4"-1/2") hole through the face of your motor's cowling (or wherever you choose) for the kill switch itself. then just connect the female ends of the leads to the male posts on the back of the kill switch to the correct set of posts (C=coils ; M=Magneto) and voila! you now have a kill switch. you should be able to start the motor as usual and kill it by pulling out the lanyard and/or pressing the red button to kill the motor. the kill switch lets you do either which is nice. If for some reason the switch works backwards (i.e. runs with the lanyard out rather than in) just swap the leads to the other set of posts on the switch (i.e. from C to M or M to C). you won't hurt the motor if they're backwards. hope that helps some.
