'53 15HP restoration: reassembly begins...with questions (Pictures)

[mark in new jersey]

1953 Evinrude 15012, 15HP.....

Time to begin the reassembly, and some questions have popped up.

1.) Magneto plate / throttle linkage. I didn't notice this when I disassembled everything, and now I'm not 100% I have things reassembled properly.

The throttle linkage (bolted under the magneto plate) has a "limit arm" that hits the shift linkage when the shifter is in neutral so that ( as best as I can reason) the engine can not be rev'd beyond a certain point when not under load.

When in forward or reverse, no such interference exists, and the magneto plate can turn further.

But in neutral, the magneto plate throttle linkage "limit arm" is barely touching the linkage.

Here's forward / reverse:

but here's neutral. See how the limit arm barely touches? Have I assembled something wrong?

2.) Skeg assembly: I understand the string seal, but as I look at the skeg, I notice something that leaves me scratching my head.....the mounting screws come up through the housing *inside* the seal.

I understand how the seal keeps water out from the joint, but what keeps water from coming up the screws and into the housing? The screws can be as tight as heck, but that doesn't make them "watertight" by any means.

What keeps the water out of the screw holes?

3.) high speed & low speed needles / knobs: the knobs have pins which, when integrated with the shell, allow the knobs limited rotation. When at the maximum clockwise turn point, and the pin engages the limit on the shell, where should the needles be? Does "max clockwise" on the knob correspond with "needle fully closed"? Or some other needle position?

Lastly, not a question.....I'll just share my nightmare with you all....

The head shell has been painted blue, and it looks great! Yesterday was a beautiful day to paint so I masked off the head and sprayed the silver to the sides:

Nice, huh?

Except, when I removed the masking today, the silver paint pulled off. It had zero adhesion to the blue paint underneath, and peeled off like I was peeling tape. I need to re-do the whole damn thing. Sucks!

 

[F_R]

Re: '53 15HP restoration: reassembly begins...with questions (Pictures)

The interlock bar may be bent. Happens when somebody forces it into neutral with the throttle wide open (not running). It also may be worn at the center hole where the pivot bolt goes through. Or the pivot bolt may be worn.

You are supposed to put the Scotchlok 847 sealant around the bolt holes. You are also supposed to sock those screws in tight with your manual impact screwdriver (You do have one, don't you). Then the head pretty much seals by mushing into the aluminum just a microscopic bit.

You are supposed to adjust the needles for best running, then put the knobs on in mid-scale position.

Sorry about your paint. As my grandkids would say, That sucks.

 

[mark in new jersey]

Re: '53 15HP restoration: reassembly begins...with questions (Pictures)

Thanks!

There is so little engagement between the limit arm and the shift arm that I questioned whether or not there should be any at all......I was thinking that my "Theory" about rev limitations was wrong.

So what your saying is that "yes, that's exactly what it's for"...right?

I guess I'll try to figure out why the engagement is so limited. Something must be bent somewhere....

The skeg: I guess, then, that the trick is to put enough sealant on the surface to make everything tight, but not so much that the squeeze out gets into the gearsets. Daunting task!

How long should the sealant dry before I add the gear oil? Couple of days? ( I can't imagine that a pro shop waits very long at all...

Needles: Gotcha.

Paint: bummer deluxe.


EDIT: I should also mention......finally did a compression test. I was getting concerned that "I've come this far", only to discover 20psi / 15psi or some such nightmare.

I'm happy to report that this engine......cold & with just a squirt of oil yields a consistent 90PSI on each side. Once hot & properly lubricated, that number will surely rise. Looks like we're moving ahead A-OK.

 

[samo_ott]

Re: '53 15HP restoration: reassembly begins...with questions (Pictures)

Yes, it is a limiter so that you cant over rev it in neutral.

I put the sealant goop in all the screw holes but I agree. It seems like not the best design. I have often wondered about it also.

Quite often I have only let the sealant dry for a few hours before water testing it. I doubt that it's enough but I have not noticed an issue yet.

I just sold my 15012 in the summer. It ran well.

Bummer about the paint. I have never tried to paint one yet but fear similar results, so I hold off.

 

[F_R]

Re: '53 15HP restoration: reassembly begins...with questions (Pictures)

If you are using the correct selaer, it dries so fast you have trouble getting it assembled fast enough. If you are using something else, well you are on your own.

 

[mark in new jersey]

Re: '53 15HP restoration: reassembly begins...with questions (Pictures)

correct sealer = 3M #847........yes?

 

[kfa4303]

Re: '53 15HP restoration: reassembly begins...with questions (Pictures)

yup. Although, I've heard that you can use Permatex 1000 too, but the 3M 847 is the brand of choice. Not the cheapest though. About $30+ a tube and most stores don't have it in stock so you may have to order it, but one tube is enough to do many, many motors.