5.7 1987 OMC shuts off at Low RPM

Nick_1987 5.7 OMC

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Apr 26, 2020
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125
Hello everybody, good morning or good night, whenever your reading this. I have a 26” Bayliner ciera with a 5.7 omc 1987. So the issue is that the boat runs nice and smooth at high rpm ( 4500) nice spot for the engine. But today when I was going back Into the marina, I was getting ready to dock and when I went into reverse the boat died. Now even before I went into the marina. I was rolling in at around 750rpm and 3mph and it stalled again. Another thing is when I go really quick from 4500rom down to 1000 the motor turns off. I did notice low oil pressure but I’m not sure if that is the issue. Recap, boat runs fine at high rpm but stalls under 1000rpm. Any help is much appreciated!
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Shift cable and ESA adjusment. You will need the factory manual and the TSB

Hey @Lou C
 

Lou C

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Messages
12,815
With a properly tuned igniton system and clean carburetor the OMC ESA system should not stall the engine. Normally these engines came with a Prestolite points distributor and a Rochester 2bbl or 4bbl carb. Both require maintenance for the engine to run correctly and not stall. The points and condenser at least in my experience seem to need to be changed every 4-5 seasons, the cap and rotor maybe every other depending on your climate (internal corrosion of contacts), spark plugs also should be changed every few seasons. The carb in my experience seems to need to be rebuilt (cleaned and put back together with new gaskets and accelerator pump) every 5-6 seasons.
The way the ESA (electronic shift assist) system works:
The Cobra outdrive like a Merc Alpha is a dog clutch system. These will want to stay in gear when you try to shift to neutral. In order for it to shift to neutral the engine RPM has to be lowered from about 600 to 450 or so. So when you shift, the cable jacket flexes and this triggers the shift linkage to engage the interrupt swtich on the shift linkage plate on the engine. This will drop rpms to 450, the drive will drop into neutral, the cable jacket relaxes and releases the linkage and then the interupt swith dis-engages, idle rpm returns to 600. The problems you can have:
sticky shift cable, may keep that interrupt switch engaged too long
crudded up bell crank in the pivot housing of the transom mount assembly, they can get water deposit in the recess where the bell crank is and this can mimic a bad shift cable. I clean this out and pack it with OMC triple guard grease.
The microswitches can wear and stick ON...
the first run of OMC Cobras there were 2 switches, the interrupt and the over stroke, which was supposed to keep the interrupt from engaging when the drive is in gear. Later on I think around 1990 or so they changed the system to one that used only the interrupt switch and the ESA module was changed to use a timer to limit the amount of time the ESA would lower the idle
The ESAs can also fail, I wound up replacing the switches and the module on mine in 2015, they work perfect with a properly adjusted shift cable, the drive shifts with 2 fingers.

so you need a properly tuned engine, clean carb, properly adjusted shift cable and funtioning ESA system.

To do the shift cable adjustement you need the factory manual (updated instructions are available on the midnight wolf OMC site) and the tools to set up the cable. The first time you do it, the job can take a few hrs but once you get it right it will shift great. I set mine up in 2013 and have not had to touch it since then. You should also measure shift cable drag and if its more than 2.5 lbs you need a new cable.
Here's a pic of what the system looks like with the early version, 2 switches:
 

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Nick_1987 5.7 OMC

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 26, 2020
Messages
125
With a properly tuned igniton system and clean carburetor the OMC ESA system should not stall the engine. Normally these engines came with a Prestolite points distributor and a Rochester 2bbl or 4bbl carb. Both require maintenance for the engine to run correctly and not stall. The points and condenser at least in my experience seem to need to be changed every 4-5 seasons, the cap and rotor maybe every other depending on your climate (internal corrosion of contacts), spark plugs also should be changed every few seasons. The carb in my experience seems to need to be rebuilt (cleaned and put back together with new gaskets and accelerator pump) every 5-6 seasons.
The way the ESA (electronic shift assist) system works:
The Cobra outdrive like a Merc Alpha is a dog clutch system. These will want to stay in gear when you try to shift to neutral. In order for it to shift to neutral the engine RPM has to be lowered from about 600 to 450 or so. So when you shift, the cable jacket flexes and this triggers the shift linkage to engage the interrupt swtich on the shift linkage plate on the engine. This will drop rpms to 450, the drive will drop into neutral, the cable jacket relaxes and releases the linkage and then the interupt swith dis-engages, idle rpm returns to 600. The problems you can have:
sticky shift cable, may keep that interrupt switch engaged too long
crudded up bell crank in the pivot housing of the transom mount assembly, they can get water deposit in the recess where the bell crank is and this can mimic a bad shift cable. I clean this out and pack it with OMC triple guard grease.
The microswitches can wear and stick ON...
the first run of OMC Cobras there were 2 switches, the interrupt and the over stroke, which was supposed to keep the interrupt from engaging when the drive is in gear. Later on I think around 1990 or so they changed the system to one that used only the interrupt switch and the ESA module was changed to use a timer to limit the amount of time the ESA would lower the idle
The ESAs can also fail, I wound up replacing the switches and the module on mine in 2015, they work perfect with a properly adjusted shift cable, the drive shifts with 2 fingers.

so you need a properly tuned engine, clean carb, properly adjusted shift cable and funtioning ESA system.

To do the shift cable adjustement you need the factory manual (updated instructions are available on the midnight wolf OMC site) and the tools to set up the cable. The first time you do it, the job can take a few hrs but once you get it right it will shift great. I set mine up in 2013 and have not had to touch it since then. You should also measure shift cable drag and if its more than 2.5 lbs you need a new cable.
Here's a pic of what the system looks like with the early version, 2 switches:
Thanks a lot Scott and Lou, do I need the boat out of the water to adjust the esa and shift cable? I think it’s just the esa, when I shift it’s very smooth.
 

Lou C

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Yes the cable adjustments are made with the drive off, so boat has to be out of the water. Question, does the boat shift into gear easily and shift out of gear easily? If so, you may have more of a tune up issue than a shifting issue. If you can easily shift out of gear to neutral when in the water the ESA must be working. One thing to check though is that the ESA is not sticking on, you'd see this because in the pic above, the little lever would not be in the V of the spring loaded lever, (Load Lever in the pic above) it would be at one of the points of it, keeping it engaged. This would suggest a sticky cable. So if you drive the boat see if an assistant can watch what happens when you shift from in-gear to neutral, if that lever hangs up and keeps the lever pressed in that will limit rpms to about 450 and if your boat is not in a good state of tune can definitely stall. Mine is in good tune so it can run at 450 without stalling. When you shift from in-gear to neutral, the load lever should flex engaging the ESA briefly then return to the center position. Then the idle speed will come back up from 450 to 600.
When was the last time the points, condenser, cap, rotor and plugs were replaced? How about a carb rebuild? Ever dump out your gas and check for water in the fuel? I do this every year.
I'd do a good tune up first, you can do this with the boat in the water if careful, I've done it myself.....Here's the old Prestolite points distributor...
now a carb rebuild could be done if you are very careful, make sure not to spill any gas, but I prefer to have the boat on the hard for these jobs and really go over it well.
 

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Nick_1987 5.7 OMC

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 26, 2020
Messages
125
Yes the cable adjustments are made with the drive off, so boat has to be out of the water. Question, does the boat shift into gear easily and shift out of gear easily? If so, you may have more of a tune up issue than a shifting issue. If you can easily shift out of gear to neutral when in the water the ESA must be working. One thing to check though is that the ESA is not sticking on, you'd see this because in the pic above, the little lever would not be in the V of the spring loaded lever, (Load Lever in the pic above) it would be at one of the points of it, keeping it engaged. This would suggest a sticky cable. So if you drive the boat see if an assistant can watch what happens when you shift from in-gear to neutral, if that lever hangs up and keeps the lever pressed in that will limit rpms to about 450 and if your boat is not in a good state of tune can definitely stall. Mine is in good tune so it can run at 450 without stalling. When you shift from in-gear to neutral, the load lever should flex engaging the ESA briefly then return to the center position. Then the idle speed will come back up from 450 to 600.
When was the last time the points, condenser, cap, rotor and plugs were replaced? How about a carb rebuild? Ever dump out your gas and check for water in the fuel? I do this every year.
I'd do a good tune up first, you can do this with the boat in the water if careful, I've done it myself.....Here's the old Prestolite points distributor...
now a carb rebuild could be done if you are very careful, make sure not to spill any gas, but I prefer to have the boat on the hard for these jobs and really go over it well.
Ok Lou, thanks again. So the cap and everything was replaced last year so that’s all good. And yes the boat shifts super smooth from gear to neutral and vise versa. But it only stalls at low rpms. When I’m giving it gas she’s going like no tmr. The carb is aloe Very clean. I did clean the valve heads before I put the boat in tha water and I had to take that bracket off that holds all the shifting and switches and maybe when I did that I knocked something out of tune!
 

Lou C

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OK then have someone watch or even video the shift linkage on the engine when you shift from in gear to neutral in the water, and post it up. Then we can see for sure.
 

Nick_1987 5.7 OMC

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Apr 26, 2020
Messages
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OK then have someone watch or even video the shift linkage on the engine when you shift from in gear to neutral in the water, and post it up. Then we can see for sure.
Ok I’m going to the boat in a hour or so. Let me know what you want to see. I’ll video while shifting. Will you see than if the esa is broken ? Let me know what else you want to see
 

Lou C

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you see that pic above, video that, when you are shifting from in gear to neutral, then we can see if your esa is sticking on, or not. Shift from in-gear to N, then shift from N to in gear. That will answer that question at least.
 

Nick_1987 5.7 OMC

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 26, 2020
Messages
125
you see that pic above, video that, when you are shifting from in gear to neutral, then we can see if your esa is sticking on, or not. Shift from in-gear to N, then shift from N to in gear. That will answer that question at least.
Ok while engine running or off?
 

Nick_1987 5.7 OMC

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 26, 2020
Messages
125
you see that pic above, video that, when you are shifting from in gear to neutral, then we can see if your esa is sticking on, or not. Shift from in-gear to N, then shift from N to in gear. That will answer that question at least.
 

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Bsluper

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Jul 5, 2019
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Yes the cable adjustments are made with the drive off, so boat has to be out of the water. Question, does the boat shift into gear easily and shift out of gear easily? If so, you may have more of a tune up issue than a shifting issue. If you can easily shift out of gear to neutral when in the water the ESA must be working. One thing to check though is that the ESA is not sticking on, you'd see this because in the pic above, the little lever would not be in the V of the spring loaded lever, (Load Lever in the pic above) it would be at one of the points of it, keeping it engaged. This would suggest a sticky cable. So if you drive the boat see if an assistant can watch what happens when you shift from in-gear to neutral, if that lever hangs up and keeps the lever pressed in that will limit rpms to about 450 and if your boat is not in a good state of tune can definitely stall. Mine is in good tune so it can run at 450 without stalling. When you shift from in-gear to neutral, the load lever should flex engaging the ESA briefly then return to the center position. Then the idle speed will come back up from 450 to 600.
When was the last time the points, condenser, cap, rotor and plugs were replaced? How about a carb rebuild? Ever dump out your gas and check for water in the fuel? I do this every year.
I'd do a good tune up first, you can do this with the boat in the water if careful, I've done it myself.....Here's the old Prestolite points distributor...
now a carb rebuild could be done if you are very careful, make sure not to spill any gas, but I prefer to have the boat on the hard for these jobs and really go over it well.
I agree with everything they have said, but I ran into this a few years ago and after weeks of checking everything I could think of, it ended up being a slightly loose cable to the ignition. So double check that the purple wire to your ignition switch is tight as well!
 

Nick_1987 5.7 OMC

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Apr 26, 2020
Messages
125
The spec is 500-600 rpm in the water...
So it’s been about 2 weeks and I didn’t touch nothing on the motor. Some times it’s doing it some times it’s not. I wonder if maybe I should throw some sea foam in the gas and get that carb cleaned 🧼
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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there is no mechanic in a can. the only way to get a carb clean is to pull it apart and to clean it.
 
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