5.0 OSi-JF overheating at speed

686SPORT

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Jul 24, 2023
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2008 V-P twins, type 5.0 OSi-JF. "F" as in freshwater cooled. We bought the boat late last year, and I motored about 75 miles from Great Bridge, VA, to new home in Urbanna with no problems at all. Family health issues have kept us away from the boat for most of this year; it's a 3-hour drive from home. Boat was winterized last December and summerized in June, both times by the shop at our marina. No problems with running gear noted, other than having to replace a failed alternator and all the batteries [due to failed shore power wiring, now fixed].

My first time out this year with the boat, I idled out the creek and into the Rappahannock. Within seconds of getting on plane, an alarm sounded and I noticed that the starboard temperature gauge was passing 200. Shut her down and returned on port engine only. After about 15 minutes I restarted starboard engine and idled back to slip at normal temperatures.

Marina owner suggested I check impeller, thermostat, and heat exchanger - in that order. So, on next trip to boat, I replaced impeller and t-stat with V-P parts. Old impeller had taken a set but was fully intact and showed no cracks. T-stat looked OK; it was a 170, but got replaced by a 160. This time I idled up the creek to the ski area and opened her up. Same result. After a very brief full throttle run, alarm sounded, I throttled back and checked with pyrometer: risers at 205. Other components seemed more normal, although I did not scan everything before shutting off.

Third trip I removed the heat exchanger, popped the ends, and looked through a very clean unit. Only deposit was a little pile of corroded debris below what was left of the zinc. Cleaned that out and re-assembled. Before attaching output hose from raw water pump, I briefly started the engine and observed what I think was adequate water flow.

So it looks like a raw water flow problem. Unfortunately, my V-P owner's manual shows a coolant flow diagram for the non-freshwater engine only [GXi-J or OSi-J]. Before proceeding further, I would like to have a freshwater engine coolant flow diagram. From what I've read here and on THT, there is at least one cooler for oil and power steering that could be clogged and restricting flow on the raw water side. Of course I would greatly prefer to deal with a clogged cooler than r&r the risers and manifolds.

All suggestions welcomed, and please, could someone send the proper flow diagram?

tia, 686Sport
 

alldodge

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I don't have the diagram

Suggest, get a short piece of clear hose, a double barbed fitting and hose clap from hardware store. Remove raw water hose coming from the impeller at the heat exchanger and install clear hose.

Run the motor and see if you see any air bubbles, you should not
 

Scott Danforth

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My guess the hose connection at the drive. Crawl under the boat with the drives up and look up
 

686SPORT

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Thanks for the tips. Planning to do a variation of the first suggested one: remove upper connection of raw water pump outlet hose, reroute it to a 5-gallon bucket and run engine while timing 20 seconds or so. Repeat with other engine, again measuring what collects in the bucket. Finally, pull pump from the good engine and run it on the other one. Fortunately, these pumps are easy to r&r. Will probably do the clear hose test if replacing the pump alone doesn't seem likely to cure the problem.

Unfortunately, the outdrives are placed under a large swim platform. Safety, you know. If I still haven't figured out the problem, I'll get the marina to look at intakes/hoses when they pull her to do the midseason power wash. That is coming up soon. Marina guy is sure that there is no intake problem, as he painted the outdrives and inspected immediately before the problem appeared. He's betting on bad elbows/risers or a failing hose at the power steering cooler. We shall see.
 

Lou C

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how many seasons are the exhaust system on the boat? Fresh or salt water?
 

686SPORT

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Don't know how many seasons in salt/brackish. We bought the boat on a tip from the dealer where we had bought our previous Chaparral - also with V-P power. We had them do a compression test, and bought the boat based on those numbers [175 +/- 5] and the very nice condition of upholstery and cabin. Boat had been delivered new with XDP's, and somewhere along the way a dealer [not ours] had replaced them with OceanX's. We had seller replace the port raw water pump, and then got these temperatures via pyrometer at cruising speed:
PORT STARBOARD
160 168 OIL FILTERS
95 115 RISERS
100 115 MANIFOLDS
115 115 EXCHANGERS
110 115 PS PUMPS
Water temp at test time was about 60*. At no time did either engine report oil pressure below 30. This was early last November. So you can see that starboard was running a bit warmer even then. The next week I took the boat 75 miles to its new home, with no unusual gauge readings. It got winterized and then summerized, and the first time I took it out after that the overheating was there.

As for bubbles in the raw water stream, would that indicate a leak in the hose at the outdrive mentioned by Supreme Marine Moderator? Can this hose be inspected with the drive in trailer position?
 

alldodge

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If there is ait bubbles then there is a leak or restriction causing turbulence which would cause bubbles

If no bubbles then there is most likely a restriction past the Exchanger. Which would show normal temps at low rpms and heat increase as pump trys to move more water thru but cannot
 

686SPORT

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Got some clear tubing and measured raw water pump flow at idle. Starboard [the problem engine] was only a tad bit slower than port. No bubbles. Checked flow in hose from exchanger to an exhaust manifold; almost as fast as direct pump output.
Conclusion: it's got to be elbows, risers, manifolds, or a combination of the three. In their 8th decade, my shoulders can't take the strain of pulling a manifold while reaching under the floor of a 29-foot cruiser, so the marina is in charge now.
 

alldodge

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my shoulders can't take the strain of pulling a manifold while reaching under the floor of a 29-foot cruiser, so the marina is in charge now.
Understand but using all thread rod makes it easier

3/8-13 all thread about 6 inch long.
Remove to outer most bolts on mans and screw in all thread. Remove remaining bolts then slide mans off. Replace in reverse order. No need to hod all the weight just to get the bolts in
 

686SPORT

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One more trip to the boat and took along a friend with a lot of i/o experience - just not with V-P's. We started the engine and put it in gear at idle while tied up at the dock. After about 10 minutes we began reading high temps off the dash gauges and with the infrared pyrometer. At this point I decided it was time to bring in a qualified mechanic.
Only then did I discover how many mechanics on the lower Rappahannock [tidal salt] will not work on gas engines, with even fewer who will touch sterndrives and V-P's. The mechanic who finally agreed to work on the boat suspects that there may be an intake hose that collapses at higher rpm's as the impeller draws more raw water.
- Could that be hose #18 in the attached file?
- Can this hose be replaced while the sterndrive is on the boat? Drives are DPS-B1-OX.
tia, 686SPORT
 

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Lou C

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Part # 9 plastic nipple if cracked or the hose isn’t on tight that could contribute to the problem.
Hose collapse? Not sure about that one.
How about the water tube grommets inside the drive and/or the p/s cooler?
 

686SPORT

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Jul 24, 2023
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alldodge wrote: No need to hold all the weight just to get the bolts in.

Just like when installing cylinder heads; done that many a time. But never having done boat manifolds, I wanted someone more qualified on the job, too. The first guy who said he'd work on gas motors declined because of age - he's about 80.

That guy recommended his former assistant - who now runs a big marina shop, complete with cranes and travel lifts. Taking the boat there tomorrow, and hoping that they will pick her up long enough for us to get under the swim platform and check the lower for obstructions and manipulate hose #18.

If nothing obvious there, then it'll be time to pop off a riser. On my boat, it looks like you also get better access to the ps oil cooler and hoses after removing the inboard riser and elbow. But it's not likely they'll pull a riser tomorrow.

686SPORT
 

Lou C

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these are only about 40 lbs but same idea, makes it a lot easier.
Exhaust install wiht headless bolts to line it all up.JPG
 

686SPORT

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Jul 24, 2023
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Yes, your boat has much better access as well as lighter components. Mine has a deck above, batteries and black water tank on the outsides, and the other engine on the inside. Very tight even with a 10' beam.

I still have an old coffee can full of Datsun L-series head bolts left over from racing days. The single exhaust manifold for those engines weighed about 8 pounds!
 
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