470 dies going into gear, and shift issue

[Nosrob]

First time poster here. I searched, but didn't see this topic,and I also have another issue.
My 470 on a Gl;astron-Carlson C-537 Metric started right up, no issues when I woke it up in July.
I ran it in my drive several times, over a 3 day period before I took it to the lake. Of course, water muffs hooked up on all starts.
Arrived at lake, boat fired right up and settled into normal idle. When I put it into gear, it died immediately. I tried repeatedly and my instinct was telling me this was some kind of safety or temp/pressure safety killing the motor. We pulled the cowl and went to the micro switch on the shift plate. We by-passed the micro switch and there was the same result, engine dies as soon as it goes into gear, the idle is normal.
While I was attempting to troubleshoot the issue, I apparently flooded the carb and I pulled the shifter out to the choke position to attempt another restart.
The motor started back up and I put it into reverse, just to see if it would die when shifting into reverse.
I wonder if I damaged something internal to the shifter when I put it in reverse in (choke) instead of gear?
Now, either the shifter is jammed, or, something on the shift plate or out drive is jammed or stuck?
The motor still starts and idles fine.
I have transitioned to power boats from many years on sailboats, but I am pretty mechanical inclined and am hoping the collective here can point me in the right direction. I have plenty of tools and nice shop, just need somebody to point me towards a repair.
I have a good couple of months of weather before I have to winterize.
Thanks for any help you folks can provide!

 

[Scott Danforth]

welcome aboard.

replace your lower shift cable and adjust it properly

 

[Nosrob]

welcome aboard.

replace your lower shift cable and adjust it properly

Hi Scott.
Not to question your advice, but....The cables are in good shape and appear to be newer, and there is zero damage that I can see.
Did I damage the cable somehow?
Would that address the dying issue, or the inability to shift forward or back?
It FEELS like the shift issue is actually in the throttle quadrant...

 

[Scott Danforth]

lower cables stretch. very common on mercruisers. so unless you replaced yours recently, you may want to do it.

and yes, a stretched cable will be out of adjustment with the shift interrupt.

 

[Nosrob]

lower cables stretch. very common on mercruisers. so unless you replaced yours recently, you may want to do it.

and yes, a stretched cable will be out of adjustment with the shift interrupt.

Thanks Scott. I just got off the phone with the pervious owner and the shift cables were recently replaced at a Certified shop. This boat is new to me and has approx. 8-10 hours on the new cables. I have less than 4 hours total on this boat, since I bought it..This issue did not appear gradually, it was sudden , although I last drove the boat last fall, and all was good. The cotter pins in the barrels are new and the cables appear to be as new as the PO stated.
To clarify on the shift quadrant, when I push in the button for choke, I have full fore and aft travel on the lever. When I shift to drive or reverse, it seesm to be jammed.... I am trying to determine if I have an issue in the shift quadrant, or somewhere aft., in addition to the sudden dying when shifting. Thanks!

 

[Nosrob]

I'm having a little trouble wit the forum, how do I edit my posts?

 

[Nosrob]

welcome aboard.

replace your lower shift cable and adjust it properly

Assuming the ( brand new)cable DID stretch, wouldn't bypassing the micro switch on the shift plate allow the boat to go into gear without dying?

 

[Scott Danforth]

Was it a quality cable?

go thru the adjustment proceedure in the factory manual.

 

[Nosrob]

Was it a quality cable?

go thru the adjustment proceedure in the factory manual.

I have no idea about the quality of the cable.
I am a retired Helicopter mechanic ( and fixed wing ) and the cable looks to be new, no splitting, kinks, corrosion, etc.
I would sign it off as air worthy if it was on an airplane.....
Really wondering about the shift problem also, I came here hoping to find info to avoid unnecessary disassembly.
The Marine environment is kind of new to me.
I will figure it out, thank you for the help.

 

[nola mike]

Ok, need to start at the beginning. First, there is no "choke position" on the throttle. The choke is set when the throttle is opened all the way. Pulling out the handle is neutral throttle, you aren't moving the shift lever at all. Second, not sure how you bypass the shift interrupt switch. You just disconnect it to disable. That said, still a bit unclear as to the problem. Does your shift lever physically not move? Either way, I'd disconnect both shift cables at the shift lever and make sure they move freely. The lower shift cable should be super smooth and easy to shift the drive gears. You can't tell if it's bad by looking at it, and if water has gotten in through the drive, it doesn't matter whether there are 10 years or 10 minutes of operation on it.

 

[Nosrob]

Thanks Mike-on the shift quadrant, when I push in the button for choke, I have full fore and aft travel on the lever. It is very smooth, feels normal. When I shift to drive or reverse, it seesm to be jammed.... I am trying to determine if I have an issue in the shift quadrant, or somewhere aft., in addition to the sudden dying when shifting.
We unplugged both leads to the interruptor swith, the motor still dies when I put it in drive or reverse. .It also dies if I jumper wire between both sides of the interruptor switch.
Is there another safety or something that would kill the motor when put in gear?

 

[Pruno]

Is the button on your remote(throttle quadrant) a choke, or a throttle only button? Based on how you describe it, it sounds like it's a throttle only button, which would take your shift cables out of the question at the remote.
As nola mike said,If you wanted to isolate further, you could disconnect your shift cables at the shift plate - then you can operate them independently of each other.
Can you turn your prop by hand when it's in neutral? Perhaps your lower unit went TU and is bound causing you to stall when you try to put it in gear??

 

[nola mike]

You need to disconnect your cables at the shift plate. If you jump the shift interrupt switch the engine will die immediately.

 

[Nosrob]

Is the button on your remote(throttle quadrant) a choke, or a throttle only button? Based on how you describe it, it sounds like it's a throttle only button, which would take your shift cables out of the question at the remote.
As nola mike said,If you wanted to isolate further, you could disconnect your shift cables at the shift plate - then you can operate them independently of each other.
Can you turn your prop by hand when it's in neutral? Perhaps your lower unit went TU and is bound causing you to stall when you try to put it in gear??

Throttle only, I think
Yes, I can turn the prop by hand in neutral

 

[Nosrob]

You need to disconnect your cables at the shift plate. If you jump the shift interrupt switch the engine will die immediately.

Ok,
What is the prceedure after I disconnect the cables at the shift plate?
to try to isolate or pinpoint the issue?
the engine was dying before I jumpered the switch, and after?
Thanks for the help, fellas, it will be the weekend before I will have time to get back to the problem, I will report back what I find.

 

[nola mike]

With the cables disconnected, see if the drive shifts smoothly using the lower shift cable. The upper cable is from the control, see if it moves freely while moving the control into fwd reverse etc. Not sure what you're saying about the switch--the motor won't run at all if you jump the terminals if they're still connected. If you jump them together disconnected it won't do anything.

 

[Nosrob]

With the cables disconnected, see if the drive shifts smoothly using the lower shift cable. The upper cable is from the control, see if it moves freely while moving the control into fwd reverse etc. Not sure what you're saying about the switch--the motor won't run at all if you jump the terminals if they're still connected. If you jump them together disconnected it won't do anything.

Thanks Mike.
I will report back after I disconnect at the shift plate.
I have a busy week going, I will report back asap with what I find. It may be a few days.

 

[Nosrob]

"replace your lower shift cable and adjust it properly""

Scott Danforth was right!

I disconnected the cables at the shift plate, and the lower cable is frozen solid.
Looks new, ( supposed to be new) but FUBAR.
I thought the TWO CABLES attached to the bell crank were both from the throttle?shift assy, a push-pull. I didn't realize that the forward cable actuated the drive. ( Now I know why you guys were calling it the "lower cable")
I apologize for wasting you guys time, the light bulb came on now, thanks for everybody's input!

I have to admit, I do not have a Factory service manual, which I obviously need.I have numerous motorcycles and own Factory Manuals for all of them.
When people ask me specifics on a bike, I tell them to buy the Manual and study it.
I am guilty of not following my own advice.
Now, I have to download a PDF or find a Manual and see what kind of a job it is to r and r that cable.
Thanks again, Scott and all for the help.
I now realize I don't have TWO issue, just one, the lower cable as Scott told me, in POST NUMBER 2. haha
I am still open for any advice you guys can send my way.
Do I pull the lower unit to change that cable? ( I know, I will get the Manual)

 

[Nosrob]

 

[Nosrob]

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