4 way ignition switch wiring question

[dancamp009]

My Perkins 4-108 ignition switch froze up and wouldn't allow the key to turn. So I went to West Marine and bought their 4-way ignition starter switch, which was completely different from the original Lucas 6-way switch that was on there. Problem is the new ignition switch didn't have any information about how to hook up. I don't have it with me now but I think it had "B", "IG", "ST", and I think "ac" terminals marked (but not sure). I got it set up well enough to get me out of the marina, but my problem now is how to hook it up correctly.
Can anybody please tell me what the 4 prongs do? I particularly don't know what the "ST" is for. Is that for starter or what? does it go to the starter solenoid? The "B" must mean the battery. I hooked up two brown wires to some other terminals and got it to start and the guages work, but the buzzer doesn't work and the engine runs in all positions. When I release it after starting it, it runs fine, but maybe a little fast, so if I turn the key to the left again, it seems to run better. Of course it will keep running even if I turn it all the way back to the left position unless I pull the kill compression lever.
I've searched the entire internet looking for a simple schematic to for these damn terminals, but "NOTHING" was found.
How can these companies sell these products without even telling the buyer what the terminal abreviations stand for?
thanks again

 

[drewpster]

Re: 4 way ignition switch wiring question

B- Battery (power from batt)
ST- Start (power TO start solenoid)
IG- Ignition (power TO ignition system)
C- Choke (push to choke for outboard engine)

Some marine switches have a post marked for choke for outboard engines. The choke gets power when the switch is pushed in from the front.
If your original switch used six positions you may need to buy a different switch.
You can find a breakdown of some common setups here.
http://www.boatfix.com/how/switch.html

Accessories
You need to determine how your electrical system is wired. Some systems supply power to the gauges through the ignition circuit. Other systems will have seperate wires to power gauges that connects at the switch. If you have other accessories like a radio or depth/fish finders connected to a seperate fuse panel it may be powered through a seperate wire as well. Here is the marine standard color code for wiring. It depends on how old your boat is whether or not the code is used.

Yellow or Blk- Ground Return, Negative Mains

Lt. Blue- Oil Pressure Oil Pressure Sender to Gauge

Dk. Blue- Cabin & Instrument Fuse or Switch to Lights

Brown- Generator Armature Generator Armature to Regulator
Alternator Charge Light Generator Terminal or Alternator Auxiliary Terminal to Regulator
Pumps Fuse or Switch to Pumps

Green- Bonding System Bonding Wires (if insulated)

Grey- Navigation Lights Fuse or Switch to Lights
Tachometer Tachometer Sender to Gauge

Orange- Accessory Feed Ammeter to Alternator or Generator Output and Accessory Fuses or Switches
Common Feed Distribution Panel to Accessory Switch

Pink- Fuel Gauge Fuel Gauge Sender to Gauge

Purple- Ignition Ignition Switch to Coil & Electrical Instrument
Instrument Feed Distribution Panel Electrical Instruments

Red- Main Power Feeds Positive Mains (particularly unfused)

Yellow- Generator Field Generator to Regulator Field Terminal

Brn w/Yellow- Bilge Blowers Fuse or Switch to Blower

Yellow w/Red- Starting Circuit Starting Switch to Solenoid

 

[Silvertip]

Re: 4 way ignition switch wiring question

AC = accessory. If the switch has an ACCESSORY position in addition to the RUN position, the accessory terminals feed +12 volts to accessories. That is a separate position of the switch however and is provided so the IGNITION (IG) terminal is not energized when using accessories. You bought a switch that is not a direct replacement for the original so there is obvious reason things aren't working right.

 

[tnduc]

Re: 4 way ignition switch wiring question

I bought an aftermarket ignition switch and, after having several problems on the installation (even though billed as a "direct replacement"), returned it. I then bought an OEM part for about $15 more and had 0 problems installing it. Just my $.02 worth.