apexsearay
Cadet
- Joined
- Jul 15, 2011
- Messages
- 8
This appears to be a very common issue (given the number of forum post's on the
topic), and from reading them I have learned allot. But I still have some questions
and I'm hoping that the experts can help me eliminate some subsystem's. This could be a long posting unfortunately.
1990 Searay 180 Bowrider, 4.3L, Alpha 1
2 Barrel Mercarb 3304-9565 rebuilt with:
Sierra 18-7098-1 carb kit, float kit 18-7202, spring needle valve
My engine starts great when its cold and runs well
(I know that "well" is a relative term) on the first run of the day. But after it's
hot, particularly after pulling a tube or skiing, it will stall when I pull the throttle
back into neutral. I can cruise at a low RPM while hot and it runs well, but once I cross the threshold into neutral, it will stall and if I don't re-start it immediately, I'll have to wait for hours. Inspected the carb and gasoline was dripping from the venturies at a steady rate - so I assumed it was flooding. I rebuilt the carb with a Sierra kit (spring needle valve) and new float kit as well. After re-installing, dripping continued so I changed to the solid needle, no change. Went back to the spring
needle and took extra care to adjust the floats correctly (14mm). I soaked the carb
in Gunk Carb Cleaner but not overnight as has been suggested (the instructions
recommended against extended soaking so I stayed conservative) and then blew it out with compressed air. The result of the rebuild: slight drip remains and once it has
hot stalled, even opening the throttle plates full (WOT) does not help. In general, I'm
not convinced that flooding is the whole problem, because WOT should help, so I'm hoping to eliminate some variables.
1) Does this sound like a flooding issue? I've read that not every carb can be rebuilt so I may need to order a rebuilt carb rather than rebuild myself
2) Does setting the float lower than instructed (to reduce the level of gas in the bowl) have any benefit? I can't see how that would be helpful but I'm open to idea's.
3) I made sure the pin holes in the ventury cluster were blown out and clear, so I
tried to eliminate siphoning from the bowl as a root cause.
4) When idling, should any gas at all be dripping from the venturies? I'm not sure how
the idle circuit works, but mine has slight drip at all times (when hot).
5) Should I target the mechanical fuel pump to ensure it is not exceeding 6 psi?
I don't have a pressure gage but if it's a likely problem, I will get one.
6) Given that holding the throttle wide open does not help, could it be a lack of fuel?
7) Should I target the ignition coil by jumping directly from the battery to the positive side of the coil? Not sure that the coil is heat sensitive.
7) Should I target the solenoid or the starter? Also, not sure they are sensitive to high heat.
I know this is long, but I've read too much and I'm getting wrapped around the axle. I think that eliminating sub-systems is my only choice now. The card was low hanging fruit but I'm not really made any progress.
Thanks so much
topic), and from reading them I have learned allot. But I still have some questions
and I'm hoping that the experts can help me eliminate some subsystem's. This could be a long posting unfortunately.
1990 Searay 180 Bowrider, 4.3L, Alpha 1
2 Barrel Mercarb 3304-9565 rebuilt with:
Sierra 18-7098-1 carb kit, float kit 18-7202, spring needle valve
My engine starts great when its cold and runs well
(I know that "well" is a relative term) on the first run of the day. But after it's
hot, particularly after pulling a tube or skiing, it will stall when I pull the throttle
back into neutral. I can cruise at a low RPM while hot and it runs well, but once I cross the threshold into neutral, it will stall and if I don't re-start it immediately, I'll have to wait for hours. Inspected the carb and gasoline was dripping from the venturies at a steady rate - so I assumed it was flooding. I rebuilt the carb with a Sierra kit (spring needle valve) and new float kit as well. After re-installing, dripping continued so I changed to the solid needle, no change. Went back to the spring
needle and took extra care to adjust the floats correctly (14mm). I soaked the carb
in Gunk Carb Cleaner but not overnight as has been suggested (the instructions
recommended against extended soaking so I stayed conservative) and then blew it out with compressed air. The result of the rebuild: slight drip remains and once it has
hot stalled, even opening the throttle plates full (WOT) does not help. In general, I'm
not convinced that flooding is the whole problem, because WOT should help, so I'm hoping to eliminate some variables.
1) Does this sound like a flooding issue? I've read that not every carb can be rebuilt so I may need to order a rebuilt carb rather than rebuild myself
2) Does setting the float lower than instructed (to reduce the level of gas in the bowl) have any benefit? I can't see how that would be helpful but I'm open to idea's.
3) I made sure the pin holes in the ventury cluster were blown out and clear, so I
tried to eliminate siphoning from the bowl as a root cause.
4) When idling, should any gas at all be dripping from the venturies? I'm not sure how
the idle circuit works, but mine has slight drip at all times (when hot).
5) Should I target the mechanical fuel pump to ensure it is not exceeding 6 psi?
I don't have a pressure gage but if it's a likely problem, I will get one.
6) Given that holding the throttle wide open does not help, could it be a lack of fuel?
7) Should I target the ignition coil by jumping directly from the battery to the positive side of the coil? Not sure that the coil is heat sensitive.
7) Should I target the solenoid or the starter? Also, not sure they are sensitive to high heat.
I know this is long, but I've read too much and I'm getting wrapped around the axle. I think that eliminating sub-systems is my only choice now. The card was low hanging fruit but I'm not really made any progress.
Thanks so much