I found my oil pressure switch shutting off my fuel pump after boat is warmed up and run, then stopped, upon restart problem begins. My dash gauge oil pressure is solid runs 60 psi all the time @ 4000 rpm, when idling at 800 rpm I have 40 psi. I changed the oil p switch with new, checked all connections, I did test the old one and it tested fine, opens up around 10 psi.
I can run the boat 30 minutes ~4000 rpm tubing kids w/no issues, stop and anchor to rest for an hour, restart and begins to have problem, repeated restarts then dies each time. The fuel pump quits again after it switches from ignition to alternator power in about 15 seconds, I have watched it happen. If I jump out oil pressure switch and it runs wonderful - I understand the safety function of the switch and keep eye on gauge when running.
Since my oil sender unit and oil p switch share same 1/4 inch tee line from port side of block is there a screen inline that might be picking up oil sludge and causing oil p switch to open up? Next step will pull the sender and switch and use air to push into tee back towards block on the tee. I figured a sludge issue to the oil p switch would also be a problem for the sender unit and gauge indication as they share the same tee feed, but gauge and sender work fine. I would think it would effect both if it were a sludge issue in the tee.
Been around the world chasing the gremlin, changed check valve fitting on fuel tank, verified fuel pick up tube in tank clear, proved fuel line to water separator good, put new water separator can on, new fuel pump (old was good, note to self - polarity matters when bench testing thus I thought was bad, it was not), and ensured carb fuel line inlet screen clear, and all electrical connections secure (did find a loose wire on alternator - voltage better now). Started acting up and problem gradually got worse through summer. I know the Oil P switch is source since when I remove the jumper it will repeat problem, jumper installed no problems. I am getting sludge build up somewhere in or feeding the tee is my next attack. Fresh oil and filter in block.
I can run the boat 30 minutes ~4000 rpm tubing kids w/no issues, stop and anchor to rest for an hour, restart and begins to have problem, repeated restarts then dies each time. The fuel pump quits again after it switches from ignition to alternator power in about 15 seconds, I have watched it happen. If I jump out oil pressure switch and it runs wonderful - I understand the safety function of the switch and keep eye on gauge when running.
Since my oil sender unit and oil p switch share same 1/4 inch tee line from port side of block is there a screen inline that might be picking up oil sludge and causing oil p switch to open up? Next step will pull the sender and switch and use air to push into tee back towards block on the tee. I figured a sludge issue to the oil p switch would also be a problem for the sender unit and gauge indication as they share the same tee feed, but gauge and sender work fine. I would think it would effect both if it were a sludge issue in the tee.
Been around the world chasing the gremlin, changed check valve fitting on fuel tank, verified fuel pick up tube in tank clear, proved fuel line to water separator good, put new water separator can on, new fuel pump (old was good, note to self - polarity matters when bench testing thus I thought was bad, it was not), and ensured carb fuel line inlet screen clear, and all electrical connections secure (did find a loose wire on alternator - voltage better now). Started acting up and problem gradually got worse through summer. I know the Oil P switch is source since when I remove the jumper it will repeat problem, jumper installed no problems. I am getting sludge build up somewhere in or feeding the tee is my next attack. Fresh oil and filter in block.
