4.3L GL Water in the oil

[2010upset]

Water in the oil with only 27 hours on engine. The engine was winterized per the Volvo owners manual, removing 5 plugs and all hoses. Some how water was trapped in the engine and froze. Any thoughts or similar problems? Yes the pipe plug in the intake was removed. Thanks for your thoughts.

 

[Don S]

Re: 4.3L GL Water in the oil

How much water we talking about? Gallons or a thimbleful?

 

[2010upset]

Re: 4.3L GL Water in the oil

The block is full and coming out on top of engine. Oil looks like tan whip cream. Major problem.

 

[Don S]

Re: 4.3L GL Water in the oil

When you removed the engine block drain plugs, did you clean out the holes? Dirt and rust can plug the hole.

 

[2003lsr]

Re: 4.3L GL Water in the oil

2010Upset, Did this occur after you started and ran the engine? About a month ago when I took my boat out, my 2003 model 4.3GL-C developed milkshake on the intake manifold real quick. Upon disassembly, I discovered the intake manifold indeed cracked from freezing. I fixed everything myself for under $300, including a new intake, gaskets, and flushing the engine twice with fresh oil and filter. Not a difficult job to perform. Make certain to set #1 piston at TDC compression stroke before removing distributor. Also, distributor holddown clamp screw requires a 7/32 Tamperproof Hex Bit for removal. I used a steel punch to knock down the center pin in the screw, then removed it with a regular allen wrench. Please don't hesitate to post if you need some assistance. (See my other thread regarding my journey with milkshake oil). Also, I know you stated the intake plug was also removed, but did you situate the bow of the boat down? There are no drain ports in the rear of the intake manifold on 1996 and newer (same model). If the bow is not lowered, water can stay in the back of the intake manifold. Just a thought.

 

[2010upset]

Re: 4.3L GL Water in the oil

Don S, when the plugs were removed water ran out of all except the pipe plug in the manifold. I put a plastic hose in and sucked, no water came out. This was the last plug I removed. With no water this should indicate the engine had drained. All other holes were probed with a wire to make sure they had finished draining before reinstalling the plugs. The boat was level on a hydro-hoist floating lift. Volvo instructions have something missing.

2003lsr, thanks for the info. Right know the boat is at the dealer and they want 7600 including a new long block. I plan to visit and check things out. If it is just a manifold then why a block. The book gives no instruction to lower the bow, maybe something is missing from the book.

 

[Don S]

Re: 4.3L GL Water in the oil

Volvo instructions have something missing.

Hard to say at this point, what manual were you looking at? Does it have a part number on it? Also, do you have a FULL model number or even a serial number for your 4.3GL That engine has been used since 94 and had quite a few changes.

 

[2003lsr]

Re: 4.3L GL Water in the oil

Not sure what model your engine is; mine is a 2003 Volvo Penta 4.3GL-C. The VP Manual is VP Part# 7743365 for my engine. My above statement "bow down" should have read "bring bow up or down to position engine level to allow for complete draining." Fact is, I did not drain my intake at all. At the time, I did not have the Service Manual, only the owners' manual. Mine did crack, and when I got underway, the freeze crack allowed water to pour into the block via the intake manifold. If you have the same intake as me GM Part# 12552422 (cast into intake directly behind thermostat housing), then it would have to be a very small hose you put in there because there isn't much head room. The passage goes 3/4 of the way back the intake. If it turns out to be only the intake, then it is vital the water/oil gets drained out of the block ASAP. I was able to completely drain my oil pan into the bilge via the fitting at the bottom of the dipstick. Be careful not to lose the washer/grommet that is installed between the fitting and oil pan (if you go that route). And BTW, not trying to get your hopes up, just simply trying to give some helpful info for you to use in troubleshooting (might save you big $$$). This forum (DonS and BondO) definitely helped me! Please let us know what your trip to the dealer reveals.

 

[2010upset]

Re: 4.3L GL Water in the oil

Don S, the Boat is a 2010 with VP 4.3 GL SX s/n A127004
Manual is Operator's Manual VPA 47700835 English 01-2010
Page 97 states if owners winterize themselves to drain engine according to information in Draining Raw Water Cooled Engines in the same manual on page 49-50. Any thoughts?

2003lsr, thanks of the manifold casting number and I will keep you'al posted on the dealer visit.

 

[2010upset]

Re: 4.3L GL Water in the oil

Well the dealer is just guessing the block is cracked they have not done a dye or magnetic crack test. The block is still full of water and oil. The manifold is cracked and would put a lot of water into the oil. To properly drain this engine the engine should be slightly tilted forward since there is no rear drain and the outlet to the block is in the front with the pipe plug. The outlet to the engine is about one half inch higher than the plug which would allow water to stand in the manifold and not drain. To drain completely the plug must be remove and the boat bow lowered until all water stops draining from the plug. Then the manifold will be empty. The book information is just incomplete since level must be check with a tool, "level", just looking is not enough. Then the question is what do you check for level the crankshaft, air cleaner, front pulley, cylinder or intake manifold, etc?

Now the question is to replace for safety sake or install a new manifold on the existing block which ran about 15 minutes under low speed the boat was always at no wake speed. I am inclined to install the manifold and gamble. Any thoughts?

 

[Don S]

Re: 4.3L GL Water in the oil

The boat was level on a hydro-hoist floating lift.

With what you know was done, it sounds to me that someone took a ride on your boat without your permission, or the put it in the water and ran it. Who knows for sure.

 

[2003lsr]

Re: 4.3L GL Water in the oil

I would order a new intake manifold, drain water/oil mix trhrough oil pan drain at dipstick fitting, remove all spark plugs, crank engine to expel water from cylinders, spray fogger in cylinders, clean all spark plugs, clean/flush the engine thoroughly (shop vac with small hose will help), inspect block for visible cracks (especially around the lifter housings), install intake manifold, let RTV set up for 24-hrs, install fresh oil and filter (add half pint of seafoam to oil), put water muffs on and crank engine. Let it run for awhile to heat the oil up good, then drain oil at oil dipstick fitting on oil pan. Remove the newly installed oil filter and dump oil/water mix out. Reinstall same oil filter, fill with fresh oil and seafoam again, run engine on muffs until warmed up good and repeat. Should be pretty much cleared after that. Refill with proper oil and install a brand new oil filter. Also, if carburetted, clear PCV line to carb base and PCV valve itself. Clean flame arrestor as well. Then take it for a run on the lake. I would suggest stopping after a short run, checking the dipstick to see if it is clear, and also looking for any leaks. If you go this route, follow the instructions in your service manual. I simply repeated basically what I did when the same thing happened to me. Best of luck, and let us know how it all turns out. By the way: michiganmotorz.com had the best deal on intake manifolds I could find. And their shipping/packing was top notch.

 

[2010upset]

Re: 4.3L GL Water in the oil

Don S, the boat was chained and locked to the dock and lift. I think the problem was the engine needs to be level, not just level but DEAD LEVEL. Just a few degrees to the stern will trap water and allow freezing. What do you think of just replacing the manifold?

2003lsr, thanks for the input and the manifold is the same as yours, 12552422, so no recent changes.

 

[2003lsr]

Re: 4.3L GL Water in the oil

Don, he started the engine and "no waked" for about 15 minutes then discovered the oil/water mix? 2010upset, is this correct? Or did you notice the "tan whipped cream" before ever starting the engine? It's kinda important to know that basic question, because like Don is saying, the engine would have to run to cause the mixture to come out. If the manifold cracked due to freezing, once thawed, the trapped water would have just run down into the block with no visible external signs of a problem. The only sign would have been a "high" oil level on the dipstick. Once running, the cooling water would run through the crack, and keep mixing with the oil until the engine just "chokes" out through the PCV, carb, etc..

 

[2010upset]

Re: 4.3L GL Water in the oil

2003lsr, the engine ran fine two weeks prior with no problems, the oil was checked and no water, no over fill. Apparently after the engine cooled the crack opened and water entered the system. On the day of discovery I did not check the oil before starting but did check the bilge and engine external since the battery disconnect switch is in the engine compartment. The engine was running poorly so I shut down, opened the engine compartment found the tan whip cream.

 

[2003lsr]

Re: 4.3L GL Water in the oil

Have you decided your course of action? New intake or new engine?

 

[2010upset]

Re: 4.3L GL Water in the oil

At long last a decision. I will install a long block and manifold. This is the expensive route but the very safe way. VP was no help with warranty even though their owners manual states to level the engine for draining "if possable"

 

[2003lsr]

Re: 4.3L GL Water in the oil

Thanks for the update. Good luck with the install!

 

[fossill]

Re: 4.3L GL Water in the oil

After draining I always remove the thermostat housing and pour propyleyne glycol antifreeze for marine engines into the engine untill full. Not sure what Volvo says as to winterization but thats what Mercruiser reccomends in the Install Manual, page 102, and Service Manual #25, page 1B-35 for that engine for additional assurance against freezing. Might be an idea to avoid any issues again next winter.