4.3 MPI Possible ECM issues

Whitey_83

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Feb 4, 2022
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Hi Guys. I'm writing because I'm at an absolute loss with the electrical gremlin in my 2001 4.3 MPI with Alpha 1 running the 555 ECM. I purchased this boat knowing it had an issue but being pretty handy I thought it would be an easy fix. I wasn't very MCM savvy at the time....

I don't have the original engine number because it has a remanufactured GM long block but attached is the ECM details.

The most obvious symptom is that when the ignition is turned to the on position, there is no normal alarm status and the fuel pump doesn't prime for a few seconds as it should. Leaving the key in the on position, exactly 20 seconds from switching to on, the MPR and FPR energise and the alarm and fuel pump run continuously. At this point everything remains energised for approx 40 seconds at which it will momentarily stops for less than a second before running again for about 40 seconds. This cycle continues reliably. During this time the engine will start with alot of throttle and run very rough and rich. No matter the throttle position, revs will not increase above about 1500 rpm (I'm guessing as the tach is not operating at this point) like it's at a guardian rev limit. I have the ECM 555 manual and have systematically checked all ground's, 12v & 5v powers, and continuity of critical wires in the harness. I don't have a scan tool and cannot get it into a shop for 3 - 4 weeks as they are busy. I purchased a vessel view mobile module with the hope of reading some codes myself but it doesn't work correctly, something along the lines of “Error - Cannot complete initial setup. Please key on all engines and try again.” so that was disappointing. My harness didn't have the yellow topped terminal resistor so I purchased one of them to no avail.

I did have it in my local shop where I asked specifically for them to perform a scan, but apparently they knew better and just started to throwing parts and labour at it before the mechanic contracted COVID and didn't return to work. So I paid the money and picked it up in the same state I dropped it off, no scan performed. They replaced the plugs, oil sender unit (guage would max out with key on) and cleaned the injectors as it wasn't holding fuel pressure. But DIDN'T scan for codes!

I am leaning towards a fualty ECM but that's just a hunch. Also suspicious on the raw water pressure switch mounted on the power steering cooler. Would love to test but don't know the resistance values across the 3 pins.

I have seen this exact symptom on other forums/threads but unfortunately the solution is never posted....? Any help or direction would be greatly appreciated, I am sure somebody has the answer.

Thanks guys.

Chris
 

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achris

More fish than mountain goat
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If you're diagnosing ECM faults you need 2 things, the Merc factory service manual, and the Rinda Diacom software running on a laptop computer. Without those, you're shooting in the dark. And before anyone else jumps in and says the old paper clip and an LED trick is enough, it's not. Seeing a code and know why it's there are the difference between the software and a paperclip.

Without the proper test equipment, you'll just throw (expensive) parts at the problem until it (might) go away.

The 3 pin sensors (like water pressure, oil pressure, mainfold pressure and temp) are voltage dividers, not resistors. You can't measure the resistance to know if they are good or not. Again, the software will tell you the voltage being indicated, and if it's in the right range.

Chris......
 

Whitey_83

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Feb 4, 2022
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Thanks for the feedback guys. I have the Service manual 36 for the ECM and engine and have checked as much as I can without a scan tool. Not confident that a scan will pick up any codes due to the on/off state of the ECM.

Have myself convinced it's the ECM after reading this:


Thanks again!
 

alldodge

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Having a 555 ECM means there is no paper clip option
cleaned the injectors as it wasn't holding fuel pressure

If it won't build pressure I would look at the fuel pressure regulator, item 13
https://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/subassembly/31504/12839/60

Check fuel pressure at the rail, should read 43 psi.
If fuel pressure is real low then it won't get enough to run. Could connect 12V direct to the pump to keep it running

Swap the main power relay with the fuel pump relay. They are both the same and it could be the MPR has an issue, or its contacts.

Could use manual 32 for more info and wiring diagram
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
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Thanks for the feedback guys. I have the Service manual 36 for the ECM and engine and have checked as much as I can without a scan tool. Not confident that a scan will pick up any codes due to the on/off state of the ECM.


Thanks again!
At this point codes (which is all a scan tool can give you) aren't going to be much use, you need to be looking at live data, which you can only get through a laptop with the Rinda software on it.

Chris....
 

tpenfield

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What Chris said . . . it is not about codes, as often there are none. It is about looking at the live data (via computer) while the engine is throwing its fits.
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
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'KEY ON' line is on the ECM connector B, pin 18 (purple wire). Check you have 12v on that line (when the key is ON). If you have, the ECM should then 'ground' connector A, pin 22 (pink/dk grn wire). Check that is does. That is the line that pulls the main pwr relay (also check that the other side of the main pwr relay has 12v on it).

I'm looking at service manual 36, page 3A-9.

Chris.......
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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codes mean nothing on a boat motor or a car motor as usually the code is thrown because 4 other systems are out of norm.

As Chris and Ted mentioned. you have to be looking at live data

Case in point. my car motor was throwing a cam bank out of range which is generally the cam position sensor or control solenoid and a general fault forcing limp-home mode. The dealer spend a week trying to find it by following the codes. then I asked them to plug in and lets look at live data..... the issue was a bit of chafing on the wires going to the cam solenoid and coil #1 that would show up only with live data during the up-shifts and only when the vanity cover was snapped back on the motor
 
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Whitey_83

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Feb 4, 2022
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Having a 555 ECM means there is no paper clip option


If it won't build pressure I would look at the fuel pressure regulator, item 13
https://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/subassembly/31504/12839/60

Check fuel pressure at the rail, should read 43 psi.
If fuel pressure is real low then it won't get enough to run. Could connect 12V direct to the pump to keep it running

Swap the main power relay with the fuel pump relay. They are both the same and it could be the MPR has an issue, or its contacts.

Could use manual 32 for more info and wiring diagram
Hi alldodge, Since cleaning the injectors the fuel pressure holds nicely. After the 20 secs the fuel pump stays on continuously with good pressure. Swapped relays and convinced both are serviceable.
I have been front to back through manual 32 and 36 thoroughly.
 

Whitey_83

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Feb 4, 2022
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'KEY ON' line is on the ECM connector B, pin 18 (purple wire). Check you have 12v on that line (when the key is ON). If you have, the ECM should then 'ground' connector A, pin 22 (pink/dk grn wire). Check that is does. That is the line that pulls the main pwr relay (also check that the other side of the main pwr relay has 12v on it).

I'm looking at service manual 36, page 3A-9.

Chris.......
Have good power at P18 with key on.
P22 doesn't ground the relay until the magic 20 seconds pass, them bam the ECM comes to life and ground's the MPR.
 

alldodge

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Hi alldodge, Since cleaning the injectors the fuel pressure holds nicely. After the 20 secs the fuel pump stays on continuously with good pressure. Swapped relays and convinced both are serviceable.
I have been front to back through manual 32 and 36 thoroughly.
If your saying FP now stays running when motor is running, or it still cycles on/off?
 

Whitey_83

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If your saying FP now stays running when motor is running, or it still cycles on/off?
Sorry mate, FP still momentarily stops as does the engine for the 0.5 sec but is able to run on again....just.
I just timed it and it is a consistent 20 second cycle. 20 seconds from turning on key to MPR energised, them everything blips/resets momentarily every 20 seconds after that. This cycle goes on and on.
 

alldodge

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Something is overloading/overheating and tripping. While I'm all for watching real data, just don't see how you have enough time to see data to determine what is happening currently.

Measure the 12V and 5V readings to see if they change any during the cycle. It may very well be the ECM but computers normally don't cycle, they fail or don't fail. The 5V must be exactly 5V and the 12V should be 12.6+/- .1 while stopped, and 14.5V running once rpms come up to 1000rpm just a single time

The reason for the distributor cap comment is because they have a history of going bad and looking great without warning
 

Whitey_83

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Feb 4, 2022
Messages
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Something is overloading/overheating and tripping. While I'm all for watching real data, just don't see how you have enough time to see data to determine what is happening currently.

Measure the 12V and 5V readings to see if they change any during the cycle. It may very well be the ECM but computers normally don't cycle, they fail or don't fail. The 5V must be exactly 5V and the 12V should be 12.6+/- .1 while stopped, and 14.5V running once rpms come up to 1000rpm just a single time

The reason for the distributor cap comment is because they have a history of going bad and looking great without warning
I have check both circuits before (both OK) but will check again. Thanks
 

alldodge

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I have check both circuits before (both OK) but will check again. Thanks
WOuld like to know if it changes any during the cycle. If the 5V circuit goes below 5V then it can throw all kinds of problems within the ECM. One bad sensor drawing to much current can throw things off
 

rustybronco

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Oct 24, 2021
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The 3 pin sensors (like water pressure, oil pressure, mainfold pressure and temp) are voltage dividers, not resistors. You can't measure the resistance to know if they are good or not. Again, the software will tell you the voltage being indicated, and if it's in the right range.

Chris......
Are the sensors outputting a digital value, or are they outputting a varying voltage? If the output is an analogue voltage them you should be able to measure that voltage on the "adjustable" wire. (Third pin/wire.) going to the ECM.

If the output is "digital" that can be measured with the proper equipment. (Freq/Oscilloscope/etc.)
 
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