32' searay shifting /stalling issues,

[Bondo]

as for the adjustment, i can clearly see the cable pulling the detent for a prolonged time before disengaging gear, this is why the interupt is activated long enough to stall the engine

Ayuh,..... This tells me, BD is Right once again,,..... Heed his advice if ya wanta find the Problem,.....

Have you checked the lower shift cable by hand to see the effort required,..??
Something 'tween the shift plate, 'n drive is bindin' causin' the stall,.....

You say ya got ther button switch,..?? that wasn't there in 1989, nor was the prestolite distributor,....
The service bulletin applies, Efi, or not,....
The SB is 'bout the shift plate, not 'bout the induction system,.....

'n yer idea of the V-6 drive,..?? Just Won't work,.....
That motor would be at redline, while the other barely comin' into it,..... Laborin' to beat 'ell,.....

 

[stang32]

thanks bondo, i went to the boat today & swapped the shift interupt assy(plate & linkages) to the starboard engne and the starboard engine did not stall out so i have ruled that out, the port engine in the meanwhile crapped out,the ignition module went. yes i know the prestolite wasntstandard on this year, it really is a hodge pondge or a project, but this is what i got and im dealing with it. funny thing it, the wiring all looks original, so whenever it was changed around, they di it to both engines and complete, harness to sensors, coils, etc. so, while i was working on the boat, a new shift remote bnox and gen II cables, the boat was pulled and put on the hard, i removed the port outdrive and the shift cable seems to be smooth as silk. the shift arm that runs through the exhaust is not loose, not tight, its just right. i dont know were to go from here without condeming the drive. btw, its a counter rotating drive, not sure if i mentioned that in the past posts.

as for the comment about the service bulletin being for efi, i only mentioned it because i have seen s/bs that are specific to certain years. so i thiught maybe bing as the boat and associated parts are
30 years old, this bulletin pertanes to later models.
i know efi, carb or whatever, it makes no dif.

 

[stang32]

oof, i really have to proof-read my post before posting, my spelling is a lot better than it appears

 

[stang32]

SO THE DRIVE IS OFF AND IN THE GARGAGE OT CHANGE U JOINTS(NOISE) WHILE I HAVE IT ON THE BENCH I LOOKED AT THE SHIFT SHOE, IT SEEMS OT HAVE A LOT OF SLOP WHERE IT GOES THROUGH THE CASE. MORE SO THAN ANOTHER DIVE I HAVE. WOULD THAT BE ANY INDICATION OF A PROBLEM?
HERE ISA LINK TO A VIDEO I MADE

https://photos.app.goo.gl/u3BRK9S758uhrTfc9

 

[Bt Doctur]

That is definitely not right. Time to split the drive and find out what is worn or damaged

 

[Bt Doctur]

but would be cause a major issue nd if it worked out, could i run the boat for the saeson on it. would the boat be pulling to the left/right?

If this is the rev rotation drive you will have to reverse the cable in the control handle ,,change the prop to a left hand and aside from a slight lean to the left at high rpm it will work fine.

 

[stang32]

but would be cause a major issue nd if it worked out, could i run the boat for the saeson on it. would the boat be pulling to the left/right?

If this is the rev rotation drive you will have to reverse the cable in the control handle ,,change the prop to a left hand and aside from a slight lean to the left at high rpm it will work fine.

ok, i am confused by what you just wrote

 

[Bt Doctur]

A reverse rotation lower unit shifts just the opposite of a standard drive.Even though your pushing both shifters the same way the rev rotation drive is moving the cable in reverse. Its why you need to put a rev rot drive in reverse to remove it.
In reverse the shift shoe is in a straight line.
Having both props turning in the same direction (to the right) tilts the boat to port, easily corrected with a touch of trim tab.

 

[stang32]

yes i am aware of all this, thanks. i have moved on from trying the smaller o/d. i am focused on the shift shaft now,. thats what confused me..
so ,it\looks like there is a bushing missing from the shift shaft hole in the upper drive case but i cant find a listing for one in the parts breakdowns i looked at.
here is the video of the bad and good drive shift shafts

https://photos.app.goo.gl/DhntxdNgpCEpsZ9U6

 

[Bt Doctur]

The bushing is so thin it wont make a difference ,the brass shoe is a snug fit on the splined shaft by itself.
Either the end of the splined shaft has worn or corroded or the brass shoe is worn too large

 

[stang32]

so, should i not be concerned about the whole hole issue? i was thinking it may have to go to a machine shop and have them sleeve it.
im concerned if i put a new shaft along with a new shoe and do nothing with the size of the hole, the problem will resurface down the road from use

 

[Rick Stephens]

Not to butt in with all the great help you have had, but figured to help with your upper shaft shoe question. The hole it goes through does not support the shaft. The shaft sits on the lower shaft splines and supports from that. If it is loose, it may be time to replace the worn brass upper shaft, but the hole itself is irrelevant.

 

[stang32]

ok, that appears to be the concencus. i ordered new shaft, shoe, bushing, seals, washer, etc etc yadda yadda yadda.
ill report back once the boat is back in the water

 

[stang32]

ok, so, here we sit, with the same issue ive been trying to resolve for 2 years now.
lets recap:
new shifter control assy quicksilver 8M0075246 Rc4500-Dul Mc Trm
new gen II cables
new lower shift cable
new shiftg interrupt assy, plate and linkage
new shift shoe
new shift shaft
adjusted shift cables per manual and video

so, any suggestions on where i go now?



here's a video of the shift interrupt at work

https://photos.app.goo.gl/WAPLLSRg3WMYAdCZ7

 

[stang32]

i am still dealing with this issue, any new ideas guys?