25hp tohatsu need a new lower unit?

FLETCHxj

Cadet
Joined
Nov 9, 2012
Messages
19
My friend and I picked up a boat the other day that has a 2002 25hp 4stroke tohatsu on it. When we looked at it we watched it run in the drive ways with the bunny ears on it and it ran great. Well yesterday my friend went to take it out for the first time and said that when he would put it in gear it would die and that it was making a clucking sound. When we pulled it out of the water and put the motor in gear we could turn the prop by hand and hear the noise. Today I drained the lower unit oil and saw what looked to be chocolate milk. I then pulled the lower unit off and noticed that there were no gaskets at all. Also no visible metal shavings or damage. Do y'all think I should just go ahead and replace the lower unit? If so where can I get one because I've been looking all over and can't find one.
 

Star

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 21, 2010
Messages
481
with the unit off can you turn the motor shaft by hand? there is a clicking sound when you turn the prop in forward gear.. this is normal. There are no gaskets on LU housing. The oil shouldn't be brown, water can do this. Pressure test the LU with 5# of regulated pressure and put it in water and look for bubbles. New factory LU are about $1100. Your unit is probably OK but you need someone that knows what they are looking at. If it is leaking it is not good to run it like that.
 

pvanv

Admiral
Joined
Apr 20, 2008
Messages
6,558
I'm assuming you have an MFS25A (with 3 carburetors), as opposed to the MFS25B (fuel injected). Year is irrelevant for servicing a Tohatsu/Nissan OB, but precise model/serial is important. It would also help to know whether you have a Remote or Tiller model. You must shift briskly; if you "ease" into gear, you will get chatter, and will wear the gears and clutch much faster.

It sounds like you have 2 separate problems.

The stalling is more than likely due to dirty carbs. After the fuel system has been serviced, you must run the carbs dry at the end of each and every day. While the motor may run OK on muffs (you must block off the sub-strainer under the antiventilation plate to use muffs on that model, or you will probably not get enough water, and may ruin the water pump or overheat the motor), but running under actual load is a completely different thing.

The milkshake LU lube is due to water in the lube, probably due to bad seals in the LU. That will require a new seal kit. There isn't any gasket between the LU and the exhaust housing.

While you have the LU down, check whether you can operate it by hand. The drive shaft always turns clockwise; if you reverse it, you will cause the water pump impeller blades to reverse and flip, decreasing their life, or possibly damaging the impeller. You must turn either the prop or drive shaft in order to engage R. Expect that the prop might turn slightly in N due to the viscosity of the LU lube. The prop should ratchet in F if it is turned and the drive shaft if not turning, so that is normal.

If you are uncomfortable disassembling the LU for inspection and seal replacement, see a dealer. Same advice applies to checking the fuel system.
 
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