Wondering if anyone has a shop manual to know what compression reading I should be getting on a almost new Yamaha 9.9 high thrust.
I kept having to turn the idle screw up every couple weeks last summer and finally ran out of adjustment at the end of year. I was taking it to the dealer for some other electronic warranty work and they were going to look at the kicker. While waiting to get in at the dealer I pulled the plugs and they were totally fouled and caked with carbon. As I had a couple weeks yet before my appointment, I got a borescope attachment for my phone and saw the pistons were caked with carbon, as well was the back of the valves.
The dealer ran some commercial carbon clean through for about a half hr, and adjusted in 1/2 turn on the idle circuit, and also supposedly adjusted the float. After that they were able to set the idle speed screw back about to where it was new.
It's winter here but we had a warm spell so I bought a compression gauge to check and only got just under 50 on ea cylinder, also one plug looked good while the top plug was fouled already with only 30 min running.
So I'm sure 50 is a very low reading and feel it should be over 100 but would like to know what is actually recommended in their shop manual as I am pushing them to rebuild it or give me a new replacement. They want to just run another round of decarbonization and I'm not having any of that. Also my bore scope still shows the piston tops still carboned up but the back of the valves are free of carbon now, but the valve edges are bad.
What I would like to know is an actual recommended compression reading.
I kept having to turn the idle screw up every couple weeks last summer and finally ran out of adjustment at the end of year. I was taking it to the dealer for some other electronic warranty work and they were going to look at the kicker. While waiting to get in at the dealer I pulled the plugs and they were totally fouled and caked with carbon. As I had a couple weeks yet before my appointment, I got a borescope attachment for my phone and saw the pistons were caked with carbon, as well was the back of the valves.
The dealer ran some commercial carbon clean through for about a half hr, and adjusted in 1/2 turn on the idle circuit, and also supposedly adjusted the float. After that they were able to set the idle speed screw back about to where it was new.
It's winter here but we had a warm spell so I bought a compression gauge to check and only got just under 50 on ea cylinder, also one plug looked good while the top plug was fouled already with only 30 min running.
So I'm sure 50 is a very low reading and feel it should be over 100 but would like to know what is actually recommended in their shop manual as I am pushing them to rebuild it or give me a new replacement. They want to just run another round of decarbonization and I'm not having any of that. Also my bore scope still shows the piston tops still carboned up but the back of the valves are free of carbon now, but the valve edges are bad.
What I would like to know is an actual recommended compression reading.