2014 Mercury 90 hp shifting problem, difficulty finding Neutral.

robert1947

Recruit
Joined
Dec 26, 2014
Messages
3
Hello, please help with this shifting problem.

I?m having shifting problems with my new 2014 Boston Whaler Montauk 170 with the usual 90 hp Mercury outboard. The problem is that with the engine running, I can?t feel or hear that I?m in Neutral at the control unit. I find I?m in Reverse about 5% of the time, when in fact I should be in Neutral.

For more background information, please read on.

Every time I shift into Neutral, I must stare down at the controls, and make a conscious decision about whether or not I?m in Neutral, before I leave the controls. And even with that amount of effort, I am not sure that in fact I?m in Neutral. When I fish, I often walk away from the center console. So, this is very much a safety issue.

Half my fishing is along the pilings and rock islands of the Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel. The tidal currents are very strong, and ocean swells have the tendency to push the boat onto the boulders. I fish there alone, occasionally at night, summer, fall, and winter. I shift a lot. Every shift to Neutral can?t have so much uncertainty!

When demo-ing the boat just before signing a purchase contract, I commented to the sales rep this fact that ?I can?t feel Neutral?. I then said ?With time I?ll get used to Mercury?s shift lever?. Well, time has passed after 4 outings. I still have the same complaint. I?ve spoken to both Mercury?s Tech Support and Boston Whaler?s Tech Support. Mercury says that with the engine running, there?s ?engine back pressure? or something like that, where there?s less feel of Neutral. Well, I need it very clear that the engine is in the Neutral slot.

Once when attempting to start the engine, the engine would not start. The lever was well within the markings for Neutral, but the safety switch determined the engine was in Forward.

I do have plenty of experience with boats. A short list of experience is as follows: 2 1/2 years as a boat rigger (including rigging 60 Boston Whalers 18 feet long with Mercury outboards which were sold to the US Navy back in the late 1970?s), and owning and rigging an 18 ft Polarkraft aluminum 7 ft wide boat with a 40 hp Honda tiller handled for the past 10 years. Two years ago I had that aluminum boat?s ribs welded in 44 places due to stress fractures. This year it was welded in only 3 places. This is the reason I went to fiberglass in 2014. I feel I?m a fair handyman repairing electro-mechanical items in homes, cars, and boats. I?ve operated inboards, 30 footers and 65 footers, but have little experience operating smaller outboards via remote control shifting. So, I don?t think that lack of experience on my part, is the issue. An operator should need very little experience to feel safe with this engine and controls.

At the end of Oct 2014 this new rig was purchased out-of-state 400 miles away from where I live. The dealership was discontinuing this line of boats. Both Mercury and Boston Whaler?s Tech Support say ?There?s no problem?. A local Boston Whaler dealership, where I had not purchased the boat, had my boat sitting at their facility for 14 days, a Tuesday to a Tuesday, and had not started up the engine nor looked into this problem during that time. So, on day 14, I asked for and took the boat back home. No warranty paperwork was filled out. After that, a local authorized Mercury shop found no shifting problems when the engine was running with an attached garden hose. In this environment I could feel Neutral. This was not warranty work and cost me $110.

I?ve researched installing a Teleflex Morse control unit, the type with two levers. One lever controls shifting only, the second lever controls throttle only. I was advised by the Mercury shop that I would probably still feel no Neutral slot. Also, as a generalization, no one has been installing these controls on outboards for the last 40 yrs. To have an authorized Mercury shop do this work would cost approximately $1,200. If this was a 10 year old boat, I?d do the work myself. But with warranties still in effect, a retail customer shouldn?t do this carving up oneself.

Next, I?d like to know if Mercury has had control units in the past that have a locking mechanism with a button that must be depressed in order to get out of Neutral. I believe other manufacturers have such a button. An older control unit may solve my problem. Do you have any comments about an older Mercury control unit as a solution? What years would that be?

If I could return the entire rig, boat, motor, and trailer, maybe I would do it. If I could return the engine and controls, and select a different manufacturer, I would absolutely do that. If this shifting problem doesn?t get resolved very soon, I?m planning to sell that two month old 90 hp Mercury, and buy an engine from another manufacturer. Of course, I?ll test the engine and controls, out in the water. The control box must have a very clearly felt Neutral slot, and a button should be pressed to shift out of Neutral? My guess is that Mercury?s Marketing Department had Mercury?s engineers design this propulsion system with the jet ski mentality in mind, not the boating needs of the more sedate fisherman. I wish I could buy an American engine and controls, but it appears that I can?t.

My wife just found several posts from approximately 2006 on ContinuousWave.com that clearly reported this same problem. But there?re no posts since then. Those posts wrote about Mercury?s controls lacking a shift detent and lacking a shift lock. One post commented on a ?lack of a built-in mechanical detent to assist in locating the neutral shift position?, and ?the shifter freely moves between forward, neutral, and reverse, with no latch, button, or locking device?. This is my exact complaint! And what?s happened since 2006? This is not a mechanical malfunction. This is intentional design, that puts me in real danger!

Does anyone else have these same complaints with Mercury?s shifting with the 2014 models?

I?m not experienced posting to online forums. So my response posts back to you may not go smoothly.

Thanks, Robert.
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
43,595

Attachments

  • Mercury Throttle Control (ERC) DTS Bulletin No. 2006-02.pdf
    306.3 KB · Views: 0
Last edited:

Fun Times

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
May 16, 2009
Messages
9,263
Hi there Robert, welcome to iboats!:)

Unfortunately the Merc (and looking around online) & other model marine console type controllers don't seem to offer a neutral lock bar like the side panel mounts do.

One thing about advanced technology is, the better they make the shifters for smoother, easier more efficient shifting, they seemed to have had to reduced the tension in the neutral detent mostly at the consumers requests I believe it was. When the Gen 2 controllers came out, they had a few design changes and one of them was to reduce the detent "feel" while going into and out of gear. It seems they've made it a bit too easy now and probably should try to incorporate a lock bar for safety reasons as others have mentioned it in the past.

Not sure about that one specifically, but you REALLY want a neutral lock. I had a boat with mercury controls and there was no lock and while there was supposed to be a detent it was pretty much impossible to tell if the boat was in neutral or just barely in gear. This led to a lot of very dangerous situations and made docking a real nightmare. One time I cruised up to the mooring ball, popped it in neutral, ran to the bow, grabbed the ball only to realize that the boat was still in gear and nearly got pulled overboard. That was a major factor in my ultimately getting rid of the boat since the dealer insisted no other control was available for that motor instrument combo.http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-...k-feature.html

One thing about your later model controller (2014) is you have Mercury's Gen 2 control and shift cables, should you decide to go back to the first generation type controller that offers a more positive feel to each gear selected, you'd also have to install (lets call it) Gen 1 cables as Gen 1 and 2 will not interchange with each other at all.

Now this might be a better question for an open minded Mercury Tech Support Rep!, but one idea would be to consider looking into to see if it's at all possible to try installing/retrofitting just the handle from a side panel mount control type MPC 4000 that offers Trim and a Lock Bar feature.
883710A02
827270A42/A46/ A48
All current Mercury/ Mariner, Force 40 HP and up (1993 and newer) with trim. http://www.marinemechanic.com/merc/c...5000-EN_08.pdf

The 4000 handle might not have the fancy "appeal" to fit/look supper nice like on your 4500 console controller you have now but it may offer you the locking mechanism you're hoping to get.

I'm not completely sure what mercury shifter control box "cover" you have now as they have a few designs now, but Merc offers a mercury shifter control box cover kit that might help with any needed "appeal" changes should a lock bar designed handle retrofit.

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=...&FORM=IQFRBA#a

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=...dles&FORM=AWIR

Just throwing out some ideas for you to consider asking about, good luck to you.:)

PS, Member sosmerc from AD's links is correct, on some models there should be a tension adjuster that's supposed to help some. The service manual say's they are pre-factory set.

Putting some extra cable pre-load on the engine side normally will help some as well. Kind of what thewayout is talking about.

Installing a stainless steel prop would help some too.
 
Last edited:

robert1947

Recruit
Joined
Dec 26, 2014
Messages
3
Any day now I?ll be ordering new controls. These controls will have a shift lock, unlike Mercury, with no shift lock. These controls are supposed to easily connect to the existing 2014 Mercury cables without adaptors.

I had changed my mind several times whether to sell the 2 month old engine or only replace the controls. I was not finding any appropriate controls out on the market. Dealerships and authorized outboard shops were no help. They just say there?s no problem, and charge me. Finally,after researching Morse controls, which I was familiar with from the 1970?s, I finally found the solution, though on my own. I had my engine up for sale at that time, and just stopped a possible sale.

What I needed is a control unit with the following:
>> Detent lock.
>> Shift lock.
>> Throttle only button.
>> Emergency engine shut off switch and lanyard.
>> Start-in-gear protection.
>> Either two single function levers or one dual function lever.
If a dual function lever, then that lever should be on the right side of the binnacle.

The solution to replace the Mercury controls with controls from SeaStarSolutions.com. Model# CH7551P. This has a shift lock, throttle only button, start-in-gear protection, and one dual function lever on the right side of the binnacle. The cost for parts only, online, is approximately $360.
FYI. Morse got bought out by Teleflex. Then Teleflex changed its name to SeaStar Solutions Inc.
FYI. The hydraulic steering on this boat was made by SeaStar Solutions Inc.

Anyone out there see any problems with what I?m about to do? I know the hole in the console will probably need to be filled in to some degree. Any suggestions on the easiest way to do this? I?ll report back in about a month after I make the installation myself. I do believe these new SeaStar controls should solve my issues.
 

robert1947

Recruit
Joined
Dec 26, 2014
Messages
3
I installed the new control unit Jan 2015. SeaStar Solutions Inc model# CH7551P. This unit has the shift ?interlock?. I tested this new unit out on the water yesterday. My shift problems are now resolved. I can now shift and have confidence that I?m in Neutral and not Reverse. I RECOMMEND THIS CHANGE.

A good backyard mechanic can do this removal and installation. Some notes are as follows:
>> The SeaStar control unit, as compared to the replaced Mercury unit, has more width and less length at your mounting surface. The SeaStar unit does not cover up the Mercury holes. I have the habit of making my changes reversible. So, instead of filling in the holes, a more permanent repair, I made a cover plate from high density poly ethylene board, ?? thick. It doesn?t look that good. But I could easily put back in, the old Mercury controls, with no new drilling and no new patch work.
>> The electrical wiring is straight forward. There?s a Red-Blue-Green wiring harness for trim/tilt. There?re two Yellow wires for the neutral safety switch.
>> The mechanical connections inside the control unit are poorly written in the installation manual. This took me some time to figure out. But SeaStar?s tech support over the phone helped me thru this.
>> The shift cable and throttle cable are disconnected at the engine before making the mechanical connections within the control unit. When it came time to reconnect these cables at the engine, the cable ends lined up perfectly so, I made no length adjustment to these cables. But if needed, these cable end adjustments are easy to do.
>> When the unit is on the workbench and you?re playing around with the lever arm, keep your fingers of your other hand away from other moving parts.
>> The friction adjustment screw is unreasonably difficult to access. Tech support said I probably would not need to fiddle with this screw. That was true. But should you, then get a Philips screw driver with a minimal diameter shaft, or grind down the diameter of a cheap screw driver at the problem place.

Hopefully you won?t hear from me again. Robert.
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
43,595
Hopefully you won’t hear from me again. Robert.

Hey, Hey, HEY!! ..... not very nice Robert

We gave you a big howdy and :welcome: and if everything works out your not going to come visit no more :faint2: were :sorry: was it something we said :croc:
 
Top