2009 Mercury 9.9 stalls when given throttle. Dealer wants $500 to fix it.

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Mdbainor

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I have a 2009 Mercury 9.9 4 stroke that I bought new as a left over in 2012. It was a great motor until this year when we took it out for the first time. It started quickly like usual but took forever to warm up. Once it did it still didn't feel normal. Now it will still start but it barley idles and stalls when accelerating. I took it to the dealer and they said it needs a whole new carburator. The motor has less than 50 hours on it and that just sounds strange to me. They claim it's from the ethanol in the fuel but I haven't seen anyone else with this issue so I find that strange too. They want just over $500 for the new carburator.
has anyone else had a problem like this?
Also does that price sound reasonable for a new carburator?
Would a normal carb cleaner help?
 

Star

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The Dealer is not telling the truth!!! I can remove the carb, disassemble and remove all plastic and rubber parts. It is nice to buy a carb kit for $70 but you can get away without one on a motor that new. Get some Beairmans chemical cleaner from Walmart $18. Soak for 3 to 4 hours or by the instructions on the can. Blow out all the passages that you can find with air or spray carb cleaner (PROTECT YOUR EYES!!!) Reassemble and be sure you don't tear up the manifold gaskets.
Ethanol gas is hard on carb rubber parts, but I have all the same gaskets on mine and I have torn it down 5 or six times. I always try to drain the carb bowl if I am not using it for awhile. Always be sure your gas doesn't have water in it. These carbs are very picky in that regard. Go find a good dealer. If you buy a carb get the one for the 15hp, it is the only difference between the two engines.
 

Star

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PS It may be possible that you could mix up a small amount of gas and seafoam and run it in a barrel of water for awhile. The fact that it does run may clear itself in time. Follow Seafoam instruction for max ratio of Seafoam to gas. Run it for awhile an then let it sit over night and start up in the morning or next day. No disasembly required.!!
 

Texasmark

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Right with what Star said. The cleaner he mentioned is Berryman's Chem Tool. It leaves no residue after cleaning like some others I have used....once. I usually just use the aerosol which is about 6 bucks at WW. Wet everything down, shooting into every hole you see and let it sit over night. Then hit it again and let it soak for another while and blast it out with compressed air ensuring that you hit any little hole you see real good. If you are careful removing the bowl, you can probably reassemble with the same gasket and do not need a kit, assuming the needle valve on your fuel inlet (in the carb) isn't deformed. If you are careful and don't bend the tang on the float you won't have to reset that either.

Sea Foam has been recommended on this site since I joined and it works. I'd try that first also. I have cleaned up numerous engines just as he said and saved a lot of money and fooling around which always has potential problems in disturbing something else in the process of fixing this problem, and generating yourself a new one. Last, start with a clean, fresh, tank of gas and get the old fuel out of the hose. I like to take a popsickle stick and depress the ball valve in the tank to engine connector and squeeze the bulb flushing out the line.
 

Shawnmm

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I have had to repair several of these that have a leaking accellerator diaphram. The engine will run as you described. If you are going to tear into the carb, you might want to have one on hand. It is not an exspensive part. If you even replaced the carb yourself, I think they retail for around $130.00.
 

Mdbainor

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Thanks for all the replies! Wound up just going for what the dealer recommended got a new carb and paid the $500. I got it home today and took it out for a spin and noticed that full throttle is a lot less powerful and the rpms are significantly lower at full throttle. I also found that once I put the engine in gear, I have to turn it to about half throttle before I get any more power than just idle. I'm thinking it just needs to be adjusted but I'm not sure. What do you guys think? I know it sucks that I paid that much but I am a novice when it comes to motors and how to fix them cheaper.
 

jimvoelxen

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Thanks for all the replies! Wound up just going for what the dealer recommended got a new carb and paid the $500. I got it home today and took it out for a spin and noticed that full throttle is a lot less powerful and the rpms are significantly lower at full throttle. I also found that once I put the engine in gear, I have to turn it to about half throttle before I get any more power than just idle. I'm thinking it just needs to be adjusted but I'm not sure. What do you guys think? I know it sucks that I paid that much but I am a novice when it comes to motors and how to fix them cheaper.
My guess is that the throttle rod that connects the throttle linkage to the carb was installed upside down. The end connected to the throttle linkage forms a loop that slips over a capped pin on the linkage. The loop should be installed with the loop opening facing down. I made the mistake of installing it upside down which yielded the same symptom. To adjust it, loosen the screw on the connector to the carb throttle linkage and remove the linkage rod from the carb. Remove the rod from the throttle capped pin and reverse it at the capped pin. Reinsert the rod into the carb throttle linkage. Now to adjust the length, turn the throttle wide open at the tiller handle, then open the throttle linkage on the carb too full throttle. The rod will slide on the carb throttle connector. Tighten the screw on the rod connector on the carb. Exercise the throttle to verify it moves from idle to max speed without binding. This may sound complicated but it's quite simple.
 

WIMUSKY

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Alot if not most threads, the OP doesn't provide a resolution. We appreciate you wanting to provide closure to the issue. However, unless the OP restarts their thread, it needs to drift away.... Closed...
 
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