2006 Suzuki 70 4stroke EFI

tomw987

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Mar 24, 2016
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I just recently purchased this boat and motor. It has 130 hours. The guy I had bought it from said he rarely used it, maybe a few times a year. He did say that he had fuel issues in the past for letting it sit so long without use or fuel treatment. I kinda figured it would need some type of fuel system cleaning. When buying I started it (on muffs) and ran it through the gears with absolutely no problems.(Did not rev above 2k).

Got home and put it in the water. Started and ran great for a short period at around 5800 rpm. Within a few minutes the idle dropped to around 4800 rpm and would stay there until I would stop and let it idle for a a short period.(1 minute or so) Then I would get it full speed again and within about 30 seconds it would drop again. It would never cut out or die, just drop rpm. The drop was kinda be gradual at first the drop off quick. within about 5 seconds.

It gets worse..About this time the oil light comes on few a few seconds then went off. I headed home. Noticed a oil slick in the water at the dock. I get home and find the oil is at the bottom of the dipstick. I can see some light oil residue around on the inside of the lower housing. The air intake seems to be somewhat wet but I really can't tell.

On to the shop((certified Suzuki dealer). Request a fuel system cleaning and to figure out where the oil went. Two weeks later I get a call saying that the oil light had come on and and the mechanic is not sure that after doing a $1000+ dollar fuel system cleaning there isn't other problems. I asked him how the compression checked he said he never did one. We decided I would choose my course of action dependent on the compression check. Calls me the next day and says that compression is good but there is burnt oil on two of the plugs and he was not going to do anymore work on it. I asked him what I should do and he said that's up to you but I'm not doing it. I asked him what would cause that and he said it could be carbon on the valves and felt the engine was "wore out". I asked him about doing a decarb and he said I could try that if I wanted. He said it would be easier to put a new motor on it then tear it down and fix. But he was done and I owe him a couple hours labor.

I'm lost on what to do other than a ring free cleaning.
 

tomw987

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I want to clarify. The mechanic never did the fuel system cleaning. Only a computer diagnosis and compression check. He think The plug is fowling and I am dropping a cylinder or two, explaining my decrease in RPM. Doesn't think it is fuel related.
 
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99yam40

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My bet would be fuel related, but I am not there checking it.
Did you drain the tank and flush the lines of old fuel before you put fresh in and started?

Leak down test will tell you if rings or valves have a problem.
then it is off to checking fuel filters and screens, injectors, etc
 

tomw987

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I agree about the fuel problem. I was under the impression the previous owner had corrected the fuel issue and he also stated the fuel was treated. I ran it with the fuel that came with it. I picked up the boat and took it to have a leak down test performed at a different shop. He observed that the oil filter in the motor was not a Suzuki filter and seemed concerned. He also believes the fuel issue is a filter located in the VST. If the leak down test comes back bad do you think a shock treatment of sea foam and or ring free could fix the issue? The first shop thinks the motor is shot due to sitting with bad gas. He said I could never get the motor running right again, although he is only going on spark plugs and the leaking oil. Again the motor idles like a dream and runs great until it slows down. Compression on all cylinders over 200.
 

99yam40

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with compression that high, hard to believe motor is shot.
I did not know compression could get that high in an outboard motor.
clean the fuel system including the VST and all screens and filters would be the 1st thing I would do.

Start out with fuel pressures as that will tell you if a filter is plugged or just change or clean them before more testing
 
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clanton

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Check the fuel pressure primary fuel pump and pressure pump. Compression when new around 230. After you solve and repair, do a 100 hour service.
 

tomw987

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Do these motors need a valve adjustment after 100 hours? Oil, plugs, filters...anything else?
 

lakensea

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Jan 30, 2002
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500 hours should be good for checking valve lash, though we rarely see changes if the engine was properly cared for.

What was the outcome in regards to the low oil pressure light? Did the alarm come on at the same time? What did the computer diagnostic report show? What about the oil leak?

200PSI compression is tight - no need to do a leak down test.

I think you need to find a more qualified dealer - all it takes is to run the boat at speed with the fuel pressure gauge installed. If pressure is within specs, no need to throw parts at it.

Stray oil pressure light coming on with no alarm or rev limiter points to an electrical issue, which could cause fouled plugs. Which two cylinders are fouling plugs?
 

tomw987

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Mar 24, 2016
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Yes it beeped. Only stayed lit for a few seconds. Never went into safe mode. It was 2 quarts low on oil and appears to be losing oil through intake and maybe elsewhere. The dealer couldn't even remember how many plugs had burnt oil on them. 2 or 3, not sure of which cylinders.
 

tomw987

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Got some good news today. It appears the problem was a cracked fuel pump that was allowing gas and oil to mix. The oil was coating the cylinders, hence the burnt oil on the plugs. The leak down test came back good. The mechanic cleaned the fuel system and injectors. He wants to open water test it here in the next couple days but thinks he got all the bugs worked out.

All and he also said there was some sort of "breather" hose that was plugged up. He said it would have caused uneven fuel pressures.
 

99yam40

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Sounds strange that it was low on oil if fuel was mixing with the oil. Should have been over full.

And I do not understand the uneven fuel pressures comment either.
Common fuel rail I thought so all injectors would see the same pressure
 

tomw987

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Mar 24, 2016
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When I pick the boat up I will get more details. He did say whatever line was plugged would cause a fast ticking sound on the motor, which I did here. But you are right it never fluxuated in rpm as if causing uneven pressures.

I read somewhere that an plugged vent/recirculating (not sure what it's called) hose could cause oil to escape the motor. Maybe I was mixing gas and oil because of the fuel pump but also blowing oil through the intake because of the clogged hose. I really don't know.
 

racerone

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Have to agree on one thing.-----Find a more qualified shop !----These motors need some different diagnostic thinking and shops have little experience with them.
 

tomw987

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Mar 24, 2016
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Picked up the boat..all seems wells. Here is a list of the issues.

Cracked low pressure fuel pump. Oil was mixing in the gas causing unburned fuel and oil to be pushed out of the valves.

Fuel system was cleaned to include VST tank and injectors.

MAP Sensor was throwing a code which led to a blocked line. (The one I was talking about earlier)

Thermostat was stuck open

Fuel tank and lines from boat to motor were replaced

This was pricey at $1300 but much cheaper than buying a new motor as the first shop recommended I do.
 
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