2005 Etec HO 225 strange intermittent starting problem

[RandyBartlett]

About every 6-8 trips, you turn the key and nothing happens. Tilt/trim still work at this point (fuse is not blown on engine), but you keep trying the key, taking the killswitch lanyard off and on, and moving the shifter to be sure you are in neutral. At some point, the engine fuse blows - you can tell because the tilt/trim won't work anymore. You replace the 10A engine fuse and then the engine starts perfectly.

During the "trying the key" time, you see the normal tach lights and hear the usual fuel pump pressurizing sounds. You don't hear the solenoid pull in.

This happens after the engine is hot from a fast run or on a hot day, even if the engine has had 4 hours to cool down.

The ignition switch has been tested a-okay. The neutral switch has been checked a-okay. Wiring around the console and back around the solenoid etc has been checked - all look good. I can't find anything that looks like a short. All the wires look new to me with nice tiewraps and no evidence of rubbing anywhere.

I never put a voltmeter on the solenoid in the intermittent failure mode. In normal times, I see voltages like 12.54 at the battery, 12.51 at the input to the solenoid and 12.47v at the output side.

All EMM starting diagnostic lights are on except the one for "crank position okay". It is off when sitting with engine not running and key in the ON position. This, however, doesn't stop it from starting when things are normal. I can't watch the light when I start normally so I have no idea if it ever comes on.

Question 1: What does that "crank position okay" light mean? I looked for a flywheel position sensor but if there is one, it is grouped with those other wires that go up to those magneto looking things under the flywheel. Why would the engine run so readily if the light is required? What is normal?

So we're looking for something that would start nicely and run, then after stopping, prevent re-starting despite a good fuse. Then we need an explanation for why the fuse blows and why, when the fuse is changed, the engine starts readily.

Question 2: What's the possibilities here?

I have a theory at this point. I think that EMM (computer) module gets hot when running and somehow gets into a funny state which prevents starting. The wires going to the solenoid come out of that EMM (not the keys/neutral/killswitch); those normal starting wires go into the EMM I think.

In my theory, I don't know why the fuse blows other than a vague "multiple twists of the keyswitch somehow overloads something". But I am thinking that once the fuse blows, the EMM no longer has power and it then resets. When it resets, everything is good again.

If my theory is right and it only fails on a hot day or when running under a big load, then either the EMM is faulty or the water cooling to the EMM isn't working. I guess I could put the boat in the water and disconnect a hose or two to see if water is circulating thru the EMM.

I have warranty left but since I can't reproduce the problem, I worry about getting the run-around at the dealers. Of course, they might pull some codes out that explain everything.

Thoughts?

 

[RandyBartlett]

Re: 2005 Etec HO 225 strange intermittent starting problem

Update: I called the dealer. They said they could try to pull the codes and look for a problem, but if there's no clue and they can't reproduce it, then I owe $95 and still have the problem. That doesn't seem very fun, so I will call Bombardier about that tomorrow.

Tonight, I looked around some more. I figured out the "crank position okay" light. Basically, the diagnostic lights show you the things you need to start. Lanyard/kill means you have the key ON. Crank position okay means you are turning the key to the start position (aka cranking position). It has nothing to do with any flywheel crankshaft position.

So the next time this problem happens, I need to remove the cowling and check those lights. If there's still some wiring or switch problem, it will show me. I doubt there is.

I also checked inside the water lines to the EMM. There was little or no water in the EMM but probably it is designed to drain down so it doesn't freeze in there. I blew it out with an airhose. It seems clear and clean.

One odd thing, there's a third hose going to the EMM (other than water input and water outlet). It is marked exhaust. I think it somehow connects into the exhaust exiting the engine. Maybe to measure pressure, I don't know. That line wouldn't pass any air (in or out).

Anybody got any ideas? Maybe bombardier can tell a dealer to pull a code for me without having to pay for a service call. Otherwise, I could put it in the water and check for water to come out of the emm. Lastly, I could wait for it to happen again - keeping a voltmeter handy and checking those lights.