2004 BF90 No Crank Condition

Jprevat

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My parents have a Honda BF90 on a scout they were using at the beach last week. All week long it did great with daily use. They took it out fishing Friday and had to get a tow due to the no start condition.

When you turn the ignition to on everything acts as it should, but when turned to crank nothing happens. There are no clicks, no knocks, and the starter doesn't engage.

I made sure I could turn the engine by hand and had no problem doing so. So to get it back to the trailer and out of the water I jumped the starter solenoid and it fired right up, idled, and ran exactly how it was intended.

I traced the wires from the starter solenoid back to the junction box under the plastic cover on the port side of the block. When I placed the probes of my multimeter into the upstream plug I got no reading when the key was turned to engage the starter. This leads me to believe I have a bad ignition switch but I thought I would ask more knowledgeable people before I start buying parts.

Thank yall ahead of time for your thoughts and time.
 

ahicks

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Not that it makes any difference here, but "scout" is a new term here. What's a "scout"?

There are neutral safety switches on both the motor, and internally in the control box. Either of those could become erratic, or just go bad causing what you are talking about. Power must flow from the ign. switch, then through both neutral safety switches to get to the starter solenoid.
 

ahicks

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I should have mentioned my personal 90 powered boat, a pontoon, will do this on occasion too. I've found that cycling the throttle lever back and forth a few times (forward, neutral, reverse, for ward, neutral try starting again) will let me start the engine. Having to go through that exercise is a pretty good sign one of the neutral switches is trying to let go. They need to be replaced, but you know what they say about a leaking pipe in a plumber's home. It's always that last to be repaired! -Al
 

Jprevat

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Thank you for the response. I didnt know that there were two neutral safety switches to worry about. I'll check upstream of each to see where I lose voltage. If I read the wiring schematic correctly the 12+ from the ignition is a black wire with white tracer?

By Scout I meant the boat brand. It's a little 162 but that 90 really makes it move.

I did try cycling the throttle a few times and got nothing but I'll try chasing wires to see what I can find.

I'm a forester and fire boss that does prescribed burns for clients but that is the last thing I want to do when I am off the clock on my own land. Lol
 

ahicks

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Yes, black/wht. But I don't know that same color is used to/from the neutral safety switch(s). You would want to double check that for sure - for both switches. They could be different.
 

Jprevat

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I hope Ill have time to troubleshoot a bit this weekend. Im going to have to just trace 12+ until i cant find it anymore I suppose.
 

ahicks

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That's the plan, but I would start at the neutral safety switches. They should have power on both sides (in and out).
 

Jprevat

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Thank you for the advice. Ended up being the nuetral safety switch plate. Not exactly sure how it happened but I bent the plate back after getting it in order and it cranks like a charm.
 

MattFL

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Oct 20, 2010
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Scout makes some pretty sweet boats, very high end. The local dealer had I think it was a 25' center console with twins on display, I believe it was something over $150k. At first glance the build quality looked top notch, similar to Boston Whaler and other high end brands.
 

Jprevat

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Ahicks, thank you for pointing me in the right direction. I ordered a replacement part just in case this ever happens again I will have a spare.

MattFL, their boat is a nice boat but nothing compared to the new ones. I dont even know if there is a well built bargain boat out there anymore. Sportsman boats were a pretty good deal when they first came out but they have loaded them down to where a bare bones 20 footer is over 40k. Really got me back into the mindset of overhauling my 74 mako 20 before I buy a new one.
 

MattFL

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New boat pricing is insane these days. I've got a 1996 Boston Whaler Montauk, I got it almost 20 years ago and it has been fantastic. My neighbor just got a brand new one of the same model. It's a bit wider and has all the latest fancy bits, but it was $42k! For a 17' boat! Insane! I'll be keeping mine for the foreseeable future.
 

ahicks

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Love those old Mako boats (and Whaler's).

A lot of people do I think. There's an outfit in Florida that specializes in rebuilding the bigger ones. I guess maybe they do the bigger ones because it's too expensive to do the smaller boats? Those would need to be a labor of love....

Just bought a hard to find fresh water '02 90 Honda for scrap price. Was supposed to be overheated and siezed. After getting into it, the lower unit was full of nothing but water, and IT seized....... Top is fine!
 

MattFL

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It seems fiberglass lasts forever, and what has really changed in hull technology in the last 20 years, so I'm sure it's a lot cheaper to refurbish a big boat than buy a new one, if the transom is solid. My neighbor has a Victory 33 that I think is a 1980's or early 1990's model, he had it completely redone and it's just like a brand new boat, super nice! I would hate to think what a new 33' boat costs these days..
 

Jprevat

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MattFL, I couldnt imagine paying 42k for a 17 ft boat! I for sure would be holding onto my 96 if I were you. I know hull tech has gotten better but that sure is a premium price tag for it.

ahicks, the Mako has been in my family since I was a kid so it is just natural progression that I want to rebuild it I guess. I actually talked to a local boat builder that is willing to put in a new floor, glass in a new enclosed transom w/t bracket, and throw on some new paint and nonskid for 16k. That was a heck of a find on that 90 with a blown foot. It makes me wonder who told them it was fried or if they just decided all on their own.
 
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