2002 M40D2 Timing Question

[LukeFishWalker]

I purchased a used 2002 Tohatsu M40D2 and the timing is currently set at 30 btdc at wot.
Idle setting is about 2 atdc
When the throttle handle is operated:
The timing moves first and all the way to 30 btdc and then the throttle moves the cam on the carb(s).
In addition, the primary butterflies do not seem to open all the way.
The butterflies open almost half of the way.
All 3 seem to be set the same using a feeler gauge at various throttle positions.

I've taken my time cleaning all 3 carbs and seen no evidence of any foreign material or varnish.
Each cylinder has between 115 - 120 psi compression.
There's no missing at any rpm or spitting.

My small digital tach does not have a setting for 120 or 360 timing for 3 cylinder 2 strokes.
But, I did listen to a boater that has the exact same engine as mine and his was defiantly turning higher.
The M40D2 W/13p prop is on my 16' flat AlWeld which my M25C2 pushes this boat well W/12P cupped prop.

So, either it's a timing issue or to much prop.
Am I missing something?

Thank You For Your Time And Patience,
Lukus

 

[LukeFishWalker]

I must correct myself. There's 2 marks on the timing plate.
The "Bowl" half-moon shaped mark must be TDC.
I was mislead into thinking the downward pointing arrow was TDC.
That translates into 20 btdc at wot.

My question still remains, what is the correct timing for the 2002 M40D2?

Thank You For Your Time And Patience,
Lukus

 

[pvanv]

Idle rpm 750 in gear, 900 in N.
WOT RPM 5000-5700.
Timing (idle) 3 ATDC, +/- 1.
Timing WOT 18 BTDC +/- 1.
Throttle butterflies should open fully at WOT.
Get the Factory 3- and 4-cylinder 2-stroke service manual from your Tohatsu dealer for correct link and sync procedures.

 

[LukeFishWalker]

Once again I am in your debt Paul.
I really appreciate your response.
I've seen you help many people here and other places.
You must really be a busy man.
I've also seen on other sites that you suggest folks to purchase the service manuals online.
Can you also recommend a safe place to do so?

I took the (New To Me) used M40D2 out for it's first trip.
It performed very well with the timing at 20 btdc at wot.
I will of course do my best to get it to 18 +/- 1.

I have a new issue.
The Steering Shaft seems to be very loose.
Not loose to the point that it needs to be replaced...But a little too loose for my liking.
Am I correct in thinking that the #20 bolt in the attached diagram is what controls
the amount of friction necessary to "Tighten" somewhat control the excess play in the
Steering Shaft #17?

Thank You For Your Time And Patience,
Lukus

 

[pvanv]

Thanks Lukus,
Yes, that is the steering friction bolt. It is for friction only -- not a lock bolt (sailors sometimes over-tighten them on smaller motors, and damage the mechanism). If the motor is a Remote setup (with a steering cable), you usually want that pretty free, but if tiller-steered, you will want some friction to help the motor stay where you steer. Any Tohatsu dealer can supply the Factory service manual. MSRP is $50.00. Don't bother with aftermarket manuals. Unfortunately, iBoats is not a bona-fide Tohatsu dealer. One prominent online dealer is boats-dot-net, but also the folks in Cumberland and Tampa do a lot of online/phone/shipping parts sales. When the carbureted 2-strokes went obsolete (thank the US EPA), Tohatsu consolidated the manuals into two volumes, one for 1- and 2-cylinder 2-strokes, and another manual for 3- and 4-cylinder units. [h=5]003-21036-1[/h]

SERVICE MANUAL : 3 & 4 CYLINDER 2-STROKES

 

[LukeFishWalker]

Paul,
It is in fact a tiller handle and it took about 3 - 5 degrees to adjust.
During the first trip out I could tell that any ripple and wave affected my ability
to maintain control with ease. Yes, I do understand that a tight grip on the
tiller handle is essential. But, in my opinion it was far too loose.

Thank For Your Time And Patience,
Lukus

 

[Sea Rider]

You should adjust steering load with bolt enough for when tiller is released OB maintains a straight water course. Grease through grease nipples entire swivel bracket for plate inside SW to slide efficiently on bushing, then adjust bolt. Parts 18 and 19 works hand in hand along bolt.

Happy Boating

 

[LukeFishWalker]

Paul,
After what you said, I was a little hesitant to put too much pressure on the friction bolt.
Prior to tightening, the OB would fall to the lower side if the trailer was not level.
Now, it stays somewhat where I leave it without flopping.
Yes, it's on a transom saver and I always use a ratchet strap to keep it secure and straight.
I assure you that the previous owner was adamant in greasing the zerts.
There was a rather unsightly glob of grease both top and bottom of the steering shaft.
And I also own and USE a grease gun on a regular basis.
Every time the trailer hits the water I pull the buddy cap off and give the trailer hubs a squirt or 2.
The engine will get lubrication on a regular basis as well.

Thank You For Your Time And Patience,
Lukus

 

[LukeFishWalker]

Paul,
After a little searching (Thanks Google) I am hoping that this is a complete pdf of the manual
you speak of. Could you please take just a couple seconds to briefly scan over the link
to see if this is the manual you suggested?
I've scanned the pdf, ran Malwarebytes and Eset to be sure it was safe.
It's downloadable and free.
I sure hope this can help others.
Thank You For Your Time & Patience,
Lukus

PS, The HyperLink did not attach so, just C&P and replace DOT with real ( . )
wwwDOTtecnomarDOTcl/pdf/pdf_servicemanual/2t/3-4Cylinder_2Stroke2005.pdf


Please disregard the link below, it's a broken link