Re: 2001 OX66 Oil Injection Problems
Here is a compilation of a bunch of posts on the Precision Blend by Rodbolt and others who know alot more about it than me.
Your precision blend system has several things going on at once. The engine tank contains 3 switches and a water trap. The top switch, blue/white to black shuts off the automatic transfer, the middle switch, blue/green to black turns on the auto transfer, the bottom blue/red to black sets the audible for low oil and sets the engine into RPM reduction.
The remote tank contains a simple on off switch. If the tank has enough oil for auto transfer the switch is closed (continuity) if not or the switch is bad auto transfer is inhibited but emergency still works. At key on the brown wire at the remote tank is 12V+ the blue is the ground path and is completed by either the ECU based on switch positions (commands) from the engine tank or via the toggle switch for emergency transfer. A clogged filter at the remote tank may allow oil to be consumed faster from the engine tank than the transfer pump can supply.
Quick checks ?
Remote connector - check black (harness side) to engine block for continuity, check continuity black to black red (switch side) check 12V to block key on engine off.
Engine tank - unplug the oil tank connector, check oil tank side with tank full blue/white to black, continuity, cut the tie strap and remove the water trap drain the oil into a clean container, when the level goes below the lower tank mark check the blue green to black, should have continuity.
Automatic transfer - engine tank low, remote full, key on, the transfer pump will run 180 seconds. During that time frame check the blue pump wire to ground for continuity. Remember if the black and black/red wires have lost contact, the ECU "sees" it as low remote level and auto transfer is inhibited.
NEVER remove the engine tank screen/switch assembly without first DRAINING the engine tank and ALWAYS retrieve and replace the screen to tank seal. Failure to follow this can lead to catastrophic engine failure.
The "spongy" thing on the bottom of the engine tank screen is a seal. It seals between the screen and the tank bottom and MUST be replaced any time the screen is removed or the seal could get shoved into the pump intake hose when the screen is reinstalled.
The oil transfer pump ground path is controlled by either the manual switch OR the ECU, has absolutely nothing to do with the remote switch or engine tank switches. The ground path for the normally closed remote tank switch signals the ECU that enough oil remains for automatic transfer. When it opens, or a wire breaks, you will get a center bar, arrow or yellow lamp on the tachometer and no automatic transfer.
If the engine tank is low and the ECU "sees" enough oil in the remote for transfer you will get 3 bars (arrows) flashing and an audible and the transfer pump will run for 180 seconds. The engine tank should fill and the pump shut off prior to time out or your remote tank filter may be plugged / restricted. That is the ONLY time your pump should run with key on engine off. Other than that the engine MUST be running for automatic transfer on 2.6L V motors from 1996 to present.
