2001 4.3GL. w/ SX Pre-purchase inspection things to look for

[smassey22180]

Going to see it tomorrow. It is in an 01 Crowline 180BR. Original owner has only done fluid and impeller changes. I assume it will need bellows and probably timing chain cover. It has been kept outside and it rarely goes below freezing here. Where are common block crack locations to check?

I rebuild the bellows/drive shaft on my Mercruiser Alpha 1 so I will do the work myself. Looking forward to learning something new.

Thanks

 

[jerryjerry05]

Why would you think the timing chain cover???
The block under the manifolds have a drain on either side.
IF??? it's gotten cold enough to freeze? It would possibly crack around the drains..
Or push the casting plugs out(freeze plugs).There are 2 plugs under the flywheel cover.
On the manifold/risers look for thin lines of rust on the exterior
Start the motor and check for water coming out anywhere it shouldn't.
Before you start, do a compression test.
Changing the bellows is an easy thing if you have the tools.

 

[smassey22180]

Thank for the reply. I was told the timing cover was plastic and cracked at about this age. May be only a Mercruser thing. Talked to the owner today and he winterized and shrink wrapped every year. It rarely goes below freezing here. I ran it today and it ran like a new boat. I looked for drips for 20 minutes and saw none. Did not have time for compression test unfortunately. I put a deposit on it and will pick up Friday. Thanks

 

[jerryjerry05]

I live in Sebastian,Fl. About 1/2way down the state.
The weather got real UGLY here a few years ago.
The exposed pipes froze and caused some damage.
What I'm getting at: the cold snap was only 1 night and it hurt a lot of risers and even cracked a few blocks.
But it sounds like your new boat will be ok.
Good luck.J

 

[Saline Marina]

I had issues with the front cover oil leak, and yes it is a composite/plastic. However I believe it was a failure of the original RTV applied at the engine plant and not the plastic cracked (there are some small plastic "corners" which will crack as you remove it but those pieces are adhered strongly to the RTV and can't take the levering). Its not a trivial fix, I got lucky and changed it with the aid of superdetailed cleaning and more RTV but to actually change the cover correctly, the oil pan must come off, and I personally consider that an engine removal project to get it right...because there is another joint at the rear of the engine next to the rear crank seal which would also need detailed attention.

That aside I would take a $100 bill and offer that to the current owner to take out for a sea/lake test. It will be the best $100 you ever spent as if there are issues they will become apparent during such a trial and you can research the fixes and enter into negotiations before you actually own it.

In the lake you could also check out things like the trim, listen for u-joint noises with the drive under power, drips into the bilge, other water in the bilge. Check the oil dipstick no matter what it should look like motor oil and not a milkshake (that would seem to indicate a breach between the oil side and the water side of the engine).

Also I highly recommend planning to get on your back and look at the entire hull on a trailer. I looked at one boat which had a 1-1/2" wide strip on the apex of the V on the lower hull rubbed completely off with plywood showing for about 60" long...guessing they rubbed it on a lift more than once...I drove away from that one as fast as possible.

 

[Tail_Gunner]

Have a marine survey done it is the least expensive way to go.