2000 OX-66 225 lower unit bearing carrier removal

[theboatguy1969]

Gents, I am replacing the lower unit seals in my Yamaha (SX225TXRY). My lower unit has the lower unit cap that has the two bolts vice the locking ring and tabbed washer. The lower unit cap came off without difficulties. I removed the two bolts holding the bearing carrier in place and have a puller ( flywheel puller with J-bolts around the carrier lugs) with about 80 ft-lbs. of tension on it right now. I have heated the gearcase with oxy-acetylene around the contact point of the aft portion of the carrier and the gear case with no luck. I have looked at the parts diagrams, read the procedure in my manual, and searched these forums for similar issues and I am convinced the only thing holding this carrier in place is corrosion around the contact surface(s). The drive shaft and shift rod assemblies are still installed. That said, before I get more aggressive and up the torque or add a slide hammer to the mix in addition to the torch heating I wanted to see if anyone on here knows of anything else that could be holding this thing in place. I have never had one of these apart before and I obviously don't want to cause mechanical damage to other parts.

 

[theboatguy1969]

So an update to my attempts to remove this bearing carrier. I have so far straightened two 1/2" j bolts and have not even budged this thing. Its been through several heating cycles with oxy - acetylene under tension and I have hit this thing more times than I can count with a fairly large rubber mallet to try and bust this thing loose. It is currently under enough tension to just not straighten the 1/2" eye bolts that I now have holding the chain wrapped around the lugs of the bearing carrier. I have gone through 1/2 can of PB blaster around the circumference of the carrier in the front and the rear. With respect to the oxy - acetylene, I have ben adding O2 just until the soot goes away from the flame and have been limiting my heating cycles to about 5 minutes with a constantly moving torch. Its hot enough to get the residual gear oil smoking in the case. I am familiar with how hot I can get steel but I am not familiar with how much heat I should be using on AL, so if anyone has any input that would be much appreciated. Should I use a hotter flame ( more o2)? should I heat longer? I am running out of ideas, here.

 

[theboatguy1969]

If it comes down to it, anyone have any experience trying to cut one of these things out?

 

[99yam40]

Do a search for info on it.
I think Rodbolt said in the past (he does not post here anymore) that he made a adapter for slide hammer.
Screwed hammer onto the shaft and pulled the shaft and carrier that way.
But I have no idea if that is true on your Yamaha, so you need to verify that it can

He does post on a different forum though,
He is a Yamaha master tech,
search for Rodbolt17 on the web and that should lead you to that site

 

[Capt Ken]

First you are heating in the wrong place. Remove the plastic water inlet so you don't melt it. You need a rosebud tip on the torch. Heat both sides starting at the rear and working forward to where the forward part of the carrier. Put some pressure on the puller first then start heating. When it gets hot enough, you will hear it pop. You may have to tighten, heat, tighten, heat a few times before it will pull out without further heating. There is a fine line between hot enough for it to release the carrier and melting the housing. Keep the torch moving at all times.

 

[TiMn8er]

Any update onthe progress. Im havinone heck of a time. Not to hijack the thread but im in having the same problem. Breaking tools left and right. She wont snap out.

 

[99yam40]

Start a new thread with all your info and someone will help