1999 Johnson 50HP (J50PLEE) Troubles

[Prickster]

Hey guys,
Just like the title reads. I got myself into getting my dad's boat up and running for him to enjoy his retirement on the flats. The boat has sat for 1 year on the side of his house under a heavy black canvas cover. Trapped a ton of Florida heat under it.

What I have done so far.
1. Drained fuel and premixed 10 gallons 50:1
2. Unhooked VRO (Disconnected tan and black plug. Disconnected tan, black, purple, and gray plug. Unhooked oil feed.)
3. Changed Plugs (Champion QL78YC)
4. Rebuilt primer solenoid (Gasket, Bottom, and Red arm with O-ring)
5. Changed fuel line and primer

Problem
After changing the fuel, I drained the fuel bowls that were filled with oil. Seemed weird, I know. The motor started, but wouldn't run. My Pops said it was always hard to start, as he kept pushing the key in saying, "that's how you choke it" Which I now know is incorrect. I did notice fuel squirting out of the solenoid, which is why it was rebuilt, had a cracked arm and bad o-ring. Smokes like a chimney too at start up.

I found some info and videos of this motor, and unhooking the VRO. Seems to solve the hard start up, and smoking problem. I have no problem mixing fuel, and would rather trust myself than a pump. I have now ordered a carb rebuild kit and fuel filter.

My background is in jet skis, so I know my way around a 2 stroke. I have noticed the motor is turned 90" from what I am use to working with and the carbs are on the bottom, but rebuilding carbs are pretty much self explanatory. Is there something else I am missing or that could be a potential problem for it not to run?

Also, a stupid question. Which way should the red arm on the primer solenoid be facing?

Thanks in advanced.

 

[fishfeatures]

Re: 1999 Johnson 50HP (J50PLEE) Troubles

red lever should be horizontal along the body of the primer solenoid. To choke the motor you do push in the key, you should hear an audible click when you do this, this i'll let you know that the primer is working.

Did you block off the oil intake line to the VRO with a bolt or something similar? if not the pump will draw in air....

Whip off the carbs and give them a good clean, if you saw oil come out of bowls then I'll bet the jets are blocked up too.

 

[Prickster]

Re: 1999 Johnson 50HP (J50PLEE) Troubles

red lever should be horizontal along the body of the primer solenoid. To choke the motor you do push in the key, you should hear an audible click when you do this, this i'll let you know that the primer is working.

Did you block off the oil intake line to the VRO with a bolt or something similar? if not the pump will draw in air....

Whip off the carbs and give them a good clean, if you saw oil come out of bowls then I'll bet the jets are blocked up too.

Thanks for the response. So the red arm should run with the solenoid, that is what I didn't know. From what I have read, I thought pushing the key in operated the primer solenoid?

I blocked off the oil intake line with a rubber nipple, but can you remove the VRO?

Got the rebuild kits and fuel filter for the carbs today. Full kits with new floats and jets, and those are going on Friday.

Do you think reeds might be a culprit? Just seems a good time if I am pulling the carbs off, might as well pull the intake to?

 

[kjdunne]

Re: 1999 Johnson 50HP (J50PLEE) Troubles

You are right, pushing the key in opens the solenoid operated primer valve. Turning the red lever 90 deg. to the primer body manually opens the valve, primes the engine if you have no battrey power. That engine does not have a choke per say.

Your next step is to disassemble the carbs, thouroughly clean, and install the carb kits. Most of the symptoms you describe can be carb related. The oil in the float bowls is normal, the gas evaporates, oil dosen't when the engine sits for a long time.

The main high speed jets are in the bottom of the float bowls, behind the drain plug. Look in the "top secret file" at the top of this forum for how to make a tool to remove / replace them. A regular screwdriver may damage them.

You can remove the VRO, but you will then need to install a fuel pump. As long as your VRO pump's fuel side is working, just leave it on. Make sure the oil input to the pump is plugged well so it dosen't suck air.

There is no reason yet to suspect the reeds now. Let us know what happens after the carb rebuilds.

 

[fishfeatures]

Re: 1999 Johnson 50HP (J50PLEE) Troubles

once you have the carbs off, you can shine a torch light on the reeds and check them for chips or cracks, but as kjdunne siad, there is no reason to think that they are your issue.

 

[Prickster]

Re: 1999 Johnson 50HP (J50PLEE) Troubles

Thank you for the advise and info. I am going to rebuild the carbs tomorrow evening, and see how things go after that. Hoping for the best, and pretty sure the carbs are it. I just ask about the reeds, because in jet skis, we always replaced them because they wouldn't seal due to bending, warping, or just snap. What materials are the reeds in a stock motor. They never have been changed, and found out today, the motor doesn't even have 300 hours on it.

 

[kjdunne]

Re: 1999 Johnson 50HP (J50PLEE) Troubles

I don't know what magic alloy they are made from, but they rarely break or bend in normal operation. It happens, but not very often. The jetski issue may be more due to how a particular machine is driven.
Good news about the low hours on the motor, however, outboards are happier with regular exercise as opposed to just a couple of hours a year.

 

[Prickster]

Re: 1999 Johnson 50HP (J50PLEE) Troubles

Thank you so much on the advice. You are spot on with 1 exception. Trust me, wouldn't have seen this one coming. As I was taking off the air box, I noticed 1 bolt was missing from where they mount to the carbs. As the carbs came off, there was the bolt resting on the reeds in the cage.

With some good luck, the metal reeds are not bent or open, and no chips to the cages. For once, I am happy to see metal reeds. With jet skis, metal reeds were a must to change. If one broke, end of a motor normally. I always ran Carbon Tech carbon fiber reeds, or a composite reeds, so if one got sucked in, no big deal. But you are right, I rode beach freestyle. Not normal use.

After the rebuild on the carbs, primed the system, and boat started right up, no smoke, and idled around 1500 at first, but backed down in less than 1 minute. Only problem I am having now, is that the primer ball on the fuel line keeps losing pressure after a bit. No leaks in the engine area, and new fuel line, ball, and clip. Does the primer ball need to stay solid?

Now on to the trim and water pump rebuilds. The trim ram rebuild looks super easy, and the trim motor was changed last year. My question is, why is there fluid leaking from around the base of the trim motor, where the motor and mounting plate come together? Could it be a bad motor, or just the o-ring on it?