1999 Johnson 35hp 2 stroke outboard wont start

derek7467

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Aug 24, 2012
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18
Morning everyone, this is my first crack at posting on this site!
I have a Johnson 2stroke 35hp J35PL3EEM motor and a few weeks back it started and idled normal for 30 seconds, but then stalled (has been running fine for about 2 months now). Ever since then I CANNOT get her started (cranks but doesn't fire up) no matter what ive tried. Below are my troubleshooting steps and some guesswork that im hoping some of you can help me out with. I DO have the motor service manual, which has been extremely helpful.

1. fuel line from tank started to get kinks in it so I replaced fuel line and both connectors. Bulb does get hard.
2. took each spark plug out separately and grounded to block and I do get a nice blue spark. Plugs did have black goo on the electrodes which I cleaned off
3. Tilted engine up to drain carbs, and manually opened flaps up and sprayed seafoam in each of them to try and clean it to see if I could get it started and still nothing. ALso have tried starting fluid but still no dice.
4. there is no killswitch key thing on my throttle, but ive been reading about this black/yellow wire that could cause me issues? Ive seen it and its not by itself, its with a bunch of other wires plugged in, should I try unplugging it?
5. doubtful its compression, but that's a guess, I haven't testing it

Seems like to me, the carbs are flooding everytime now and the next best guess is to order a rebuild kit and rebuild all 3 but I don't want to do that now, (in season), if I don't have to, since I don't have an easy way to get the boat on my trailer, dock is 3 miles away, and the marina doesn't have a ramp. In the fall I planned to do the carb rebuild.

What do you guys think? What else can I check? Every time I go back to thinking its ignition, I remember when I first had the issue and it started fine, but then stalled out like it lost fuel....... so im still guessing its something to do with fuel delivery.
 

racerone

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Dec 28, 2013
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39,278
3 carburetors do not fail at the same time.-------Motor will run on 2 of them.------Check and see if spark will jump a gap of 3/8" on all 3 leads.---------Hopefully the oil tank has been removed and thrown away.
 

jakedaawg

Rear Admiral
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Jun 26, 2012
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4,275
The bulk/yel wire kills the spark. Get an open air gap spark checker set to 7/16" to test spark, grounding a plug to the block tells you nothing.
Compression checkl doesn't hurt.
Fuel sample, pump some fuel from the tank end of the line intto a measuring cup. You are looking for water/ and or phase separation.
If you try to start it and then pull the plugs are they wet? If not check to make sure you are getting fuel to the carbs. If so, does the bulb get hard when you squeeze it? If you suspect flooding try to start without choking with the throttle completely advanced.
 

derek7467

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Aug 24, 2012
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I have not removed the oil injection, I have read up on it and planned to do it in the offseason. As far as spark - if I don't see a big enough spark, is this just as easy as replacing the plugs? Or am I looking at a bigger ignition issue? Bulb does get hard but how can I verify the carbs are getting gas?
 

jakedaawg

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Jun 26, 2012
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4,275
Sorry Racer, didn't notice you had posted somehow...Derek-he is the guy to go with on this, probably forgot more than I have ever learned.
 

racerone

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Dec 28, 2013
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Is this remote electric start ?-----If so is the electric primer valve working ?---Are you holding the electric primer valve open while cranking it over ?
 

derek7467

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Aug 24, 2012
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18
racerone - yes this is a remote electric start. Yes, on cold starts I press that electric primer a few times and then hold it in while cranking it over. Where on the engine would I check to make sure that's actually working?
 

racerone

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Dec 28, 2013
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39,278
The oil tank is easy to remove and should be done " forthwith " so to speak.--Listen for the click from the primer when you push in the key.--Remove the small line from the primer AT THE MOTOR END and see if fuel squirts out while cranking with the key pushed in----.If spark does not jump a gap of 3/8" you have ignition problems , NOT a sparkplug problem !
 
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derek7467

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Aug 24, 2012
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I'm going to get out to the marina this weekend and run a bunch of tests: (going to allot my self about 3 hrs to troubleshoot, pending wife approval)
1. Checking the primer on the engine side to see fuel squirt if I remove line and also listening for a click when priming.
2. Checking spark to make sure it jumps big enough.
3. Investing in a fuel pump pressure/vacuum guage to test for faulty pumps.
4. Checking fuses for any blown ones. (Any advice here?)
5. Test for water in fuel. (Suction gas out of tank and see if water separates?) Any better way to test?

2 questions remain:
1. If it was a fuel pump, why are the carbs flooding? Can I still get gas to them by squeezing the primer bulb too much? If it was either of the pumps, would I still be able to get gas to the carbs, but be unable to start it... thus a fuel delivery problem?

2. When checking for blown fuses, anything specific to check for besides the obvious? My guess is still fuel delivery. I really don't buy its bad gas, been using the same gas from same marina all season, which they usually only fill up their tanks once or twice from what ive been told.
 

derek7467

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Aug 24, 2012
Messages
18
replaced spark plugs, reseated all electrical connections and engine fired up. Ran strong during high/low idle and during rev'ing (straight from carb throttle). I'll be doing a few more things this weekend:
1. cut fuel line to make shorter, way too long right now from tank to engine
2. check suction/pressure in fuel pumps.

Happy camper right now.
 
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