Br1dgemann
Seaman Apprentice
- Joined
- Apr 18, 2011
- Messages
- 35
I have a 1999 Johnson 250 v-6, carbed outboard that will run fine from idle up to 2000 RPM and from about 3600 RPM to 5600 RPM. Between 2000 RPM and 3500-3600 RPM, the engine feels like it is not running on all 6 cylinders, it is very rough, sounds like it is missing and if the wind is right, I can smell raw gas. The engine does not set any alarms while this is occurring. The system check horn sounds when I initially turn the ignition key on, and the system check gauge illuminates all the warning lights, so I know that it is working.
I have checked the plugs and they do not look fouled. I use Champion QL78 YC. The power pack is good ? I had a brand new one that I carry as a spare which I installed and the problem is still occurring. The stator was replaced about 2 months ago when one of the magnets came off the flywheel and wasted the original one. I replaced the magnet and checked that all the other ones were properly attached and located. I have also checked for spark ? I have good spark on all cylinders with a 7/16? gap. I re-checked the connections between the power pack and stator, timing base, and out to the ignition coils. All those connections are clean and good and in the proper locations, with no damaged wire insulation. I tested the shift circuit switch per the OMC manual and it is good. I also checked the blocking diode for the S.L.O.W. system and it checked out satisfactory per the manual. The connections at the battery and the starter are clean and tight.
I have new fuel line from the tank to a Racor filter and from the Racor filter to the fuel pump. The primer bulb is genuine BRP, not an aftermarket cheapie. The hose clamps are genuine BRP plastic ones, not the worm gear type. I replaced the fuel lines a while back because they looked weathered in some spots. I also sprayed carb cleaner into each idle air-bleed orifice and each mid-range orifice and saw a nice stream exit at the back of the carb throat, so I believe the passages are clear. I also have carb rebuild kits, but I have not torn them down, because I am still not sure it is fuel related.
Lastly, performed a link and synch with the exception of WOT throttle timing.
Any suggestions with respect to what else I can check would be appreciated!
I have checked the plugs and they do not look fouled. I use Champion QL78 YC. The power pack is good ? I had a brand new one that I carry as a spare which I installed and the problem is still occurring. The stator was replaced about 2 months ago when one of the magnets came off the flywheel and wasted the original one. I replaced the magnet and checked that all the other ones were properly attached and located. I have also checked for spark ? I have good spark on all cylinders with a 7/16? gap. I re-checked the connections between the power pack and stator, timing base, and out to the ignition coils. All those connections are clean and good and in the proper locations, with no damaged wire insulation. I tested the shift circuit switch per the OMC manual and it is good. I also checked the blocking diode for the S.L.O.W. system and it checked out satisfactory per the manual. The connections at the battery and the starter are clean and tight.
I have new fuel line from the tank to a Racor filter and from the Racor filter to the fuel pump. The primer bulb is genuine BRP, not an aftermarket cheapie. The hose clamps are genuine BRP plastic ones, not the worm gear type. I replaced the fuel lines a while back because they looked weathered in some spots. I also sprayed carb cleaner into each idle air-bleed orifice and each mid-range orifice and saw a nice stream exit at the back of the carb throat, so I believe the passages are clear. I also have carb rebuild kits, but I have not torn them down, because I am still not sure it is fuel related.
Lastly, performed a link and synch with the exception of WOT throttle timing.
Any suggestions with respect to what else I can check would be appreciated!