steelyonfly
Seaman Apprentice
- Joined
- Jul 25, 2011
- Messages
- 47
I own a Force outboard as noted in the Title. In my research of this site and rebuilding/cleaning/updating/kit installing I have accumulated quite a lot of information from all of the posters on this site that has been of great help to me along with other sites with useful drawings with part numbers. Thank you to all the posters here. You've been a lot of help!
In order to have one post that includes a lot of different things that I have done and seem to be popular questions to this forum, I thought that I could offer a summary of what I've found in my research. Some of what i have here is a quote from other posters or a summarized version. I hope it's ok to do that.
Some of this seems to be applicable to other Force outboards, as well. I'll let you decide on the application to other Force outboards and if you find anything wrong with what I have posted, please offer corrections, advice or cautions as I don't want to lead anyone down the wrong path. My caveat here is that I may not have included all parts that you may expect to replace, but seemed what I needed to do for my outboard and I am not an outboard mechanic or a mechanic by trade. I have learned a little through working on my cars and boats and in trying to pay attention to what I'm doing.
I have also replaced the lower unit oil, but I did not keep any notes. If that's a job you need to do, you will find help on the iBoats forum and some useful videos on you tube.
I hope this is useful to others needing help with their Force outboards.
Thanks again! :thumb:
**************
SPARKPLUGS:
NGK: BUZHW (resistor); BUHW (non-resistor)
Champion: QL76V (resistor); L76V (non-resistor)
WATER PUMP:
Mercury OEM: Water Pump Kit: 821354A2
GLM part: 12045: Parts included in kit (per GLM catalog); basic rebuild requires new Impeller and gasket that goes on top of Base Plate. NOTE: Kit does not include the Impeller key, part 28-85119, and includes 2 tube seals (one fits inside the other).
Impeller (always replace): 47-85089-10
Gasket (installs on top of base plate; always replace): 27-822189
Gasket (installs underneath base plate; replace if needed): 27-822217
Washer (2 washers; replace if needed): 12-86645-1
Tube Seal (replace if needed): 43023
Tube Seal (replace if needed): 823547-1
Base Plate (replace if needed): 821354-2
A good video showing how this is done by D-Ray Smith is at: YouTube
If the impeller is good, water will spray out of a port on the back side of the outboard just below the top cowling. I also found that there are 2 ports on the front of the lower unit that will release water. You can't see this when the boat is in the water, but you can when you have the outboard flushing with a water hose.
It does not have the normal **** tube that other outboards do. However, this can be updated (as posted on iBoats forum) by doing the following:
There is a small pipe plug on the top of the motor, just in front of the thermostat cover. You can remove the plug and screw in a brass 90* fitting, then connect a 2 foot length of tubing. Route the tubing down to the bottom of the cowling and drill a hole. Push the tubing through the hole and secure in place with a couple of plastic ties. Presto!! Instant water flow indicator for about $5.
CARBURETOR PARTS AND ADJUSTMENT:
Gasket Kit (replace at rebuild): FK10023
Needle - Inlet (under float tab; replace at rebuild): F10265
Idle (Air/Fuel) Mixture Screw (replace if worn): F10268
Float Kit (float is the only part in kit; replace if soaked/leaking): 891730A01
Jet (.062", for 0 to 1500 foot elevation; not normally replaced): 4217
Adjusting the carb (as posted on iBoats forum) and may be for my specific outboard - this may not be exact given the wear on parts, such as on an Idle Mixture screw, but is helpful:
Target idle speeds are 1100 RPM in Neutral and 750-800 RPM in Foward gear. Initial setting for Air/Fuel mixture screw is 1 and 1/16 turns out. While in Foward gear, turn the air screw in till it just coughs, bucks, stutters or stalls. Then out 1/2 turn. Re-check the idle and do it again.
NOTE: Per manual and decal on outboard, the throttle cable MUST be readjusted if the Idle screw (not the Idle Mixture screw on the carb) was adjusted. The Idle screw is a silver screw that is located on the upper linkage on the starboard (right) side of the outboard just under the flywheel. It is locked in place with two nuts.
FUEL PUMP:
Diaphram Kit: 857005A1
DRAIN FOR COWLING AREA (inside the engine compartment to clean out small debris, gas, oil, etc.): drill a small hole in the bottom of the cowling. Spray soap and water solution into the bottom of the cowling to loosen/dissolve the oil/gas/debris. Pour water into the cowling to wash out this stuff. Be very careful not to get water on the electricals. Wipe out and let air dry with cowling off. Spray inside of cowling with soap and water solution and rinse with water being careful not to damage foam. Air dry.
In order to have one post that includes a lot of different things that I have done and seem to be popular questions to this forum, I thought that I could offer a summary of what I've found in my research. Some of what i have here is a quote from other posters or a summarized version. I hope it's ok to do that.
Some of this seems to be applicable to other Force outboards, as well. I'll let you decide on the application to other Force outboards and if you find anything wrong with what I have posted, please offer corrections, advice or cautions as I don't want to lead anyone down the wrong path. My caveat here is that I may not have included all parts that you may expect to replace, but seemed what I needed to do for my outboard and I am not an outboard mechanic or a mechanic by trade. I have learned a little through working on my cars and boats and in trying to pay attention to what I'm doing.
I have also replaced the lower unit oil, but I did not keep any notes. If that's a job you need to do, you will find help on the iBoats forum and some useful videos on you tube.
I hope this is useful to others needing help with their Force outboards.
Thanks again! :thumb:
**************
SPARKPLUGS:
NGK: BUZHW (resistor); BUHW (non-resistor)
Champion: QL76V (resistor); L76V (non-resistor)
WATER PUMP:
Mercury OEM: Water Pump Kit: 821354A2
GLM part: 12045: Parts included in kit (per GLM catalog); basic rebuild requires new Impeller and gasket that goes on top of Base Plate. NOTE: Kit does not include the Impeller key, part 28-85119, and includes 2 tube seals (one fits inside the other).
Impeller (always replace): 47-85089-10
Gasket (installs on top of base plate; always replace): 27-822189
Gasket (installs underneath base plate; replace if needed): 27-822217
Washer (2 washers; replace if needed): 12-86645-1
Tube Seal (replace if needed): 43023
Tube Seal (replace if needed): 823547-1
Base Plate (replace if needed): 821354-2
A good video showing how this is done by D-Ray Smith is at: YouTube
If the impeller is good, water will spray out of a port on the back side of the outboard just below the top cowling. I also found that there are 2 ports on the front of the lower unit that will release water. You can't see this when the boat is in the water, but you can when you have the outboard flushing with a water hose.
It does not have the normal **** tube that other outboards do. However, this can be updated (as posted on iBoats forum) by doing the following:
There is a small pipe plug on the top of the motor, just in front of the thermostat cover. You can remove the plug and screw in a brass 90* fitting, then connect a 2 foot length of tubing. Route the tubing down to the bottom of the cowling and drill a hole. Push the tubing through the hole and secure in place with a couple of plastic ties. Presto!! Instant water flow indicator for about $5.
CARBURETOR PARTS AND ADJUSTMENT:
Gasket Kit (replace at rebuild): FK10023
Needle - Inlet (under float tab; replace at rebuild): F10265
Idle (Air/Fuel) Mixture Screw (replace if worn): F10268
Float Kit (float is the only part in kit; replace if soaked/leaking): 891730A01
Jet (.062", for 0 to 1500 foot elevation; not normally replaced): 4217
Adjusting the carb (as posted on iBoats forum) and may be for my specific outboard - this may not be exact given the wear on parts, such as on an Idle Mixture screw, but is helpful:
Target idle speeds are 1100 RPM in Neutral and 750-800 RPM in Foward gear. Initial setting for Air/Fuel mixture screw is 1 and 1/16 turns out. While in Foward gear, turn the air screw in till it just coughs, bucks, stutters or stalls. Then out 1/2 turn. Re-check the idle and do it again.
NOTE: Per manual and decal on outboard, the throttle cable MUST be readjusted if the Idle screw (not the Idle Mixture screw on the carb) was adjusted. The Idle screw is a silver screw that is located on the upper linkage on the starboard (right) side of the outboard just under the flywheel. It is locked in place with two nuts.
FUEL PUMP:
Diaphram Kit: 857005A1
DRAIN FOR COWLING AREA (inside the engine compartment to clean out small debris, gas, oil, etc.): drill a small hole in the bottom of the cowling. Spray soap and water solution into the bottom of the cowling to loosen/dissolve the oil/gas/debris. Pour water into the cowling to wash out this stuff. Be very careful not to get water on the electricals. Wipe out and let air dry with cowling off. Spray inside of cowling with soap and water solution and rinse with water being careful not to damage foam. Air dry.
