1996 40 hp new owner have concerns.

NC waterboy

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Apr 6, 2006
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This is my first post not just on iboats but ever,I apoligize for mistakes in advance. My outboard is said to be a 1996 force 40 HP, serial # OE118596.Is the thermostat above the top spark plug when facing the rear of motor? I just purchased the boat 4-5-06 ran the motor and could see no problems ,no indications of over heating ,but when I went to look at the t-stat just as a precaution there is only a spring and a rubber washer in the location I before mentioned. If this should be the t-stat how much damage could be done or what if any benefit would be gained by running this way. Also there is a plug on top of the motor in the same area can I put a temp guage there ? That is if it is not to late.<br />Thank you for your time.
 

roscoe

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Oct 30, 2002
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Re: 1996 40 hp new owner have concerns.

Welcome to iboats NC waterboy.<br /><br />The serial number falls into the range for 1995 model year.<br /><br />Yes the thermostat is supposed to be behind that cover.<br />Good find. Running without a thermostat means the engine will not be running at the designed temperature. It will be running too cool. This can cause problems with insufficiently burned fuel and oil, causing carbon buildup, loss of power, wasted fuel.<br /><br />Buy a thermostat.<br />Then do the recommended maintenance, including an annual decarb of the motor (see faq forum).<br /><br />Yes you can hook up a temp gauge to that hole.<br />But I would rather see you install a water pressure gauge instead.<br />It will let you know of a water flow problem BEFORE the engine overheats.<br /><br /><br />They sell the water pressure gauge kits in the iboats mall.<br /><br /> http://www.iboats.com/mall/index.cg...ure+gauge&submit.x=0&submit.y=0&submit=Search <br /><br />Feel free to ask any questions you may have.
 

NC waterboy

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Re: 1996 40 hp new owner have concerns.

Roscoe,Thanks for the reply.I plan to decarb,take off carb and give it a good cleaning as well as the gas tank,change plugs, in line filter, replace tnt and lower unit fluids and I will go from there .I will be ordering a manual as soon as possible then I'll move on to the impellar, the boat has been sitting for two years.<br /><br />I have read to use NGK-B9HS-10 plugs,Valv-tect decarb spray and synergyn tcw 3 lower unit synthetic oil.Any suggestions would be appreciated.<br /><br />I will try to get a water pressure guage as well but would like your opinion as I have seen where people have used this hole to make a P hole for around five U.S dollars by simply attaching a brass fitting and running a hose out of the engine compartment through a gromet in a easy to see location, to me it sounds resasonable considering the investment $5 vs. $40.<br /><br />Thanks again, I am very impressed with this forum stuff. And I will enjoy more when I can be of help someday.<br /><br /><br />Do you know how to get everything that you want out of life ....... don't want so much!
 

roscoe

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Re: 1996 40 hp new owner have concerns.

Recommended plug is NGK BUHW , which is a surface discharge gapless plug.<br /><br />Never used the Valv-Tect decarb spray, but it sure is expensive.<br />I always use Seafoam Deep Creep, or Mercury PowerTune. Whatever brand you use, make sure it is made for 2 cycle engines.<br /><br />You want a marine grade lower unit lube for the gearcase.<br />( but not type "c" )<br /><br />The tcw-3 is what you want for mixing with the gas, 2.6 ounces per gallon of gas.<br /><br />Its up to you if you want a water temp, water pressure, or a water stream telltale.<br /><br />As long as you are going through the engine, you might want to add a new fuel pump diaphram to the list, about $11.<br /><br />I recomment the CLYMER Force reapir manual.<br /><br />Sounds like you got a handle on it.
 

RRitt

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Re: 1996 40 hp new owner have concerns.

I would like to add something. Down here in the land of warm salt water the mechanics I have talked to are split over the idea of running with versus without a thermostat. Water temps during fishing season run from 80's to low 90's. Thermostats seem to be a problem area that has the ptoential to get really bad - really quickly - for the mechanics. Some of them are technical purists and want the engine to run at peak efficiency, peakpower, and peak cleanliness. Others want to have the least service problems. None of them thought that running w/o thermostat in these waters would shorten the life of engine.<br /><br />So, personally I am running without thermostat. I get bad gas mileage anyway (3mpg), the boat bounces too much over 35 knots, and the new -3 oil includes decarb. It's one less thing to break and one less piece that might require drilling and tapping in the future.
 

NC waterboy

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Re: 1996 40 hp new owner have concerns.

Thank you for the plug info and correcting me on the oil.I tinkered on the rig again today and found out that once again roscoe, you are right.There is a sticker under the engine cowl that reads ... <br /> date completed 1/18/95<br /> insp# 0 shift 1<br /> AUTOSTYLE. Grand Rapids, MI<br /><br />Thank you RRitt for the input but I will be using the motor as much on cool nights catfishing as I will in the heat of the day so I will likely put the t-stat back in, that is unless the old owner can give me better reason not to when I ask him what made him discard it.<br /><br />If you wouldn't mind sharing a little more info I would like to know if you would change the in line filter, fuel pump kit, plugs, and tear apart carb before or after decarbing the motor.<br /><br />Also what fluids for tilt and trim pump.Automatic transmission fluid?<br /><br />And finally, is there any maintanance required on the prop or any of components? I didn't know if the blades being a little dented up would cause enough drag to bother the motor's performance or more importantly it's life span. Thinking I could just clean the edges up with a file or bench grinder but I don't want to screw with the balance so much that it wears loose the prop shaft
 

roscoe

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Re: 1996 40 hp new owner have concerns.

I would do the fuel pump, the filter, and the plugs.<br />Maybe save the carb for later. <br /><br />Open the tilt fluid reservoir and see what is in it.<br />Some used 30weight motor oil, others used trans fluid.<br /><br />Prop should be removed once a year and the shaft should be greased to prevent it from seizing. Might be time to buy a new prop and keep the old one as a spare. You can have it tuned up and balanced at a prop shop if its bad.
 

NC waterboy

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Apr 6, 2006
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Re: 1996 40 hp new owner have concerns.

Thanks guys for the input. I ordered all of my engine repair parts today. If they get here before good friday ( holiday off with pay ) then I will be getting paid to work on my motor, that should be called great friday. I'm going to check the compression once I get my manual and find out how much I should have. I'm also doing the water pump repair kit when the manual gets here. Sure wish I was fishing this long weekend , the stripped bass (rock fish) are in the rivers pretty good in these parts of the country, but I would rather put fishing off for minor repairs than for major disaster.Thanks again, we'll talk to you next time.
 
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