1994 Sport Jet 90 hp What am I looking at?

BlueBeast

BlueBeast

Seaman
Joined
Jul 19, 2011
Messages
67
I just got this boat. What I am I looking at? Is this a conversion kit? I've read through the forums and understand these motors have ignition problems. The previous owner gave me a second red stator and regulaor which is on the motor. Does the wiring look right? I have no spark on all 3 cylinders. The lanyard is connected, no visable damage on the stator or trigger, 20 amp fuse is good. Looks like theres no limiter. Are the ground wires ok?


Motor Serial number 0E050434

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BlueBeast

BlueBeast

Seaman
Joined
Jul 19, 2011
Messages
67
I did everything on these instructions and it looks like my switch box is no good. I'm going to replace it soon and try again.

Sport Jet 90 and 120 Ignition Tests

Follow the tests in the following order to diagnose your ignition. If you have lost all spark, your most likely culprit is the stator or the switchbox. If you have intermittent spark it could be anything. Either way, follow these tests in order and it they will tell you what the normal results should be.

Some technical terms

DVA stands for digital voltage adapter. It tells you the peak volts on a AC circuit. You don?t really need a DVA meter, you can just put a normal Multimeter on AC volts and multiply the readings by 1.41

Rev limiter is a 1 inch by 1 inch box with 4 wires that can be found in two places. Older models have it under the starter solenoid, newer models have it by the switchbox.

Switchbox is a 2 inch by 4 inch box with about 12-15 wires coming from it. One note on the switchbox is that when you use the red stator adapter, you no longer use the red wire coming from the switchbox. I have heard that CDI/Rapair stators go back to the black stator style, that is, they don?t use the red stator adapter and will use the red wire from the switchbox.

Red stator adaptor is a ? inch by 3 inch long thing that is used when the engine is upgraded from a black stator to a red stator. Most engines have already done this cause the black stators did last more than a couple of runs.

Keyswitch test
Red Multimeter lead to black/yellow wire from switchbox (wire disconnected from switchbox)
Black Multimeter lead to ground
Turn key in all positions, there should be zero voltage in all positions
There should be zero ohms in off position and infinite ohms in start or run positions

Rev limiter test
Disconnect black/yellow wire from rev limiter
If engine runs fine, the rev limiter is bad (these are common things to go bad)

Stator ohms test ? 600-700 ohms Green/white to white/green, infinite to ground
0.6-1.1 ohms yellow to yellow, infinite to ground (my stator has zero ohms and charges the battery fine, but my meter may not be that accurate)

Red Stator output Test ? 180 DVA (or my stator puts out 120 AC volts)
Between green/white and white/green wires while cranking ? too low and your stator is junk

Trigger Resistance Test for 90 hp 3 cylinders - 1100-1400 ohms
Between white/black wire and the three other trigger wires ? I had one wire show infinite ohms and had a miss on that cylinder

Trigger Resistance Test for 120 hp 4 cylinders - 700-1000 ohms
Between violet and white wires and again between brown and white/black

Red Stator Adapter Test - 65 AC volts or 110 DC volts
Between blue wire and ground while cranking (personal test, not from any manual)

Ignition Coil Resistance Test - 0.02-0.04 ohms between positive and negative terminals
800-1100 ohms between spark plug lead (with spark plug wire removed) and negative terminal

The below tests are not necessary in my opinion because if all the above checks out, then the switchbox is bad, the spark plug wires are bad, or there are shorts in the wiring. Check all wires for shorts.

Switchbox Stop Circuit Test ? 200-360 DVA volts
Red DVA lead to black/yellow wire from switchbox
Black DVA lead to ground
Crank engine

Switchbox Output Voltage Test ? 150-250 DVA volts (180-280 DVA engine running)
Red DVA lead on #1 cylinder coil positive terminal
Black DVA lead on #1 cylinder coil negative terminal
Crank engine
Repeat for the other coils

Switchbox Bias Test ? 2-10 DC volts (10-30 DC volts engine running)
Red Multimeter lead to ground
Black Multimeter lead to white/black wire on switchbox
Crank engine
 
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