Re: 1994 Mariner 115 2-stroke Compression/ Engine Work?
Okie Dokey, if you are NOT leaking L/U lube out your prop, you're being ripped off by your mechanic. The parts for the lower unit should run you no more the $50.00 (seal kit and impeller). You need to order the seal kit and the impeller separately because the impeller kit does not include the shaft seals for the drive shaft or the shift shaft. You can also order the complete water pump kit (around 45.00) and you'll end up with some duplicate gaskets because you still need to order the seal kit. I got mine from Sierra vs. Merc and they're fine. I went to
www.crowleymarine.com and get the part number and then ordered the parts from West Marine because crowley was out of stock.
I'm a novice at best and I can do that job in 1.5 hours. At 90.00 an hour for labor you should not pay any more than 250.00 for the entire job including L/U lube.
As for compression, whoever did the test did it wrong. The correct method is to take the reading after only one full revolution of the piston in the cylinder that is being checked. If you go for more revs, you're readings will be higher and fluxuate. I know this because I have done it on my own engine. If you have a Seloc manual it will tell you to count the revolutons. It's easier to just pull all the plugs and do one cylinder at a time because the starter should disengage when the cylinder being tested comes off compression.
Judging from the readings you've listed, if you test the compression on a single revolution you should come out around 125 psi and even on all cylinders. That's considered very good for an engine of this age.
Running rich. If this engine is a 2x4 (runs on two cylinders up to 1800 rpms then runs on all 4, the engine should be set to run rich. If the only check this mechanic is doing is looking at the plugs then you definitely need to find an honest mechanic.
This engine might be running with perma gap plugs. If it is then they will always have a small amount of fuel/oil on them when you take them out. Your mechanic should know that!
Knowing what I know about the engine from the info you've provided, I would do another compression test, the correct way and if it looks good, buy it.