1994 m90a spark plug closed gap

rpm6100

Cadet
Joined
Jun 6, 2012
Messages
18
Hey all I have a 1994 tohatsu m90a 2 stoke 90hp motor that I installed on my fishing boat. Install went fine, motor was very clean and cared for. I had sat for about a year and a half prior to me putting it on my boat. Got everything hooked up. Fired up fine. Idles fine, no weird noise. Went to water test and it bogged down hard so I replaced plugs and I did a seafoam treatment of 1 can to 1 gallon of gas. Problem solved and it ran great for about 20 mins on a local pond. Took it yesterday to a larger lake to go fishing and it ran fine for the first run which was about 10 mins, 2nd run was fine then all of a sudden I got the bog down in power and felt like I lost a cylinder. I pulled the plugs to check and cyl 2 the spark plug gap had closed. No harsh noise or anything just a loss of power. I tried to scrape the carbon off it it was heavily covered. I opened it back up with a screw driver and it ran again for about a minute before it fouled out. I am planning on checking compression today and going to obtain a scope to see if there was any damage Inside the piston. IM wondering if the seafoam could have knocked carbon loose to shut the plug like that or am i in for a bigger problem. The plugs were swapped with ngk Br8hs-10, manual calls for b8hs-10, basically same plug minus the resistor in the one I put in. I can going to get the non resistor type plugs also. I didn’t have an extra on the boat to replace the shut one with. So I used the kicker motor to get back slowly. Thoughts?
 

pvanv

Admiral
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Apr 20, 2008
Messages
6,559
Resistor is OK. Plug may just have been really fouled.
 

pvanv

Admiral
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Apr 20, 2008
Messages
6,559
If something was rattling around in the cylinder, it could have closed that gap. But if it stays open now, then that bit was probably ejected through exhaust.
 

rpm6100

Cadet
Joined
Jun 6, 2012
Messages
18
Did a compression check with a rental form auto parts store, not sure on the accuracy of the gauge but cyl 1 was 110psi, cyl 2 that had problem was 95 and cyl 3 was 95. Im going to borrow a friends gauge that should be accurate to confirm these numbers
 

Sea Rider

Supreme Mariner
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Sep 20, 2008
Messages
12,345
Is the motor a pre mix or autolube motor ? If pre mix, are you running 50:1 fuel/oil ratio ? Don't expect to find impeccable plug tips on 2 stroke motors as found in a 4 stroke one. Would recommend spraying an overdose of CRC Tune Up carbon remover through the carbs with motor running geared at fast idle. This product usually bumps the cylinder compression after correct application.
CRC Tune Up.jpg
Will need to remove the carb's air silencer for that purpose..Follow can application recomendations to the letter. Once the application ends, go for a long wot run as if stealing the combo to burn all leftovers inside the crankcase. Motor will run much smoother.

Happy Boating
 

rpm6100

Cadet
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Jun 6, 2012
Messages
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It’s not the color of the plug that was my concern, I’ve owned other 2 stokes so I know how the plugs get much blacker. It was the gap closing at WOT that got me alarmed.
 

Sea Rider

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 20, 2008
Messages
12,345
It’s not the color of the plug that was my concern, I’ve owned other 2 stokes so I know how the plugs get much blacker. It was the gap closing at WOT that got me alarmed.

Have never seen such thing happening, chances are there was someting hidden inside the cylinder that hit hard the plug tip and went out the exhaust port ?

Happy Boating
 

rpm6100

Cadet
Joined
Jun 6, 2012
Messages
18
I have a can of the CRC mentioned above on its way. Hoping that Bumps up the compression. Also borrowing a gauge kit from a friend that I know is accurate over the auto store rental I used.
 

Sea Rider

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 20, 2008
Messages
12,345
Will be much effective to spray the decarbonizer while the motor runs geared on muffs as must be sprayed at around 2-2.5.K revs, if done with a barrell, expect the prop to empty it real fast. Warm the engine and with the air silencer removed start spraying the upper cylinder till motor starts to missbehave some, let the rpm recuperate, same procedure with second, third cylinder, can repeat the whole process as long as you want, no issues. Being a pure product has a deeper cleaning effect than any of those decarbonizers that must be mixed with fuel...

Happy Boating
 
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