Re: 1994 Johnson 150 dies after warm-up, no restart
if you get a PP try to get the CDI pack. You won't need an optical analyser to set the timing in future.
from master tech Bill Kelly's site. A $60 marine peak reading meter off ebay will help with some of the power pack tests below.
No fire at all....
Check the kill lanyard and key-switch position.
Verify the engine rotation (The engine needs to be turning in a clockwise direction).
Check the power pack and ignition coil ground wires for corrosion and tightness.
Connect a spark gap tester to all cylinders.
Disconnect the boat side harness and connect a remote starter unit. Check for spark. If the engine has spark, check the boat side harness's black/yellow wire for shorts to ground.
Disconnect the 5-pin connector on the port side of the power pack and see if the spark returns. If it does, use the fluke meter set to ohms and see if the black/yellow wires are shorted to engine ground.
Check the battery voltage on the yellow/red striped wire while cranking the engine. If below 11 volts, charge the battery or check all battery cables.
Remove the sensor wheel and check for damage, especially where the top slots are located. Sometimes the wheels will break out where the windows overlap.
Check the sensor eyes for dirt, grease and the like. If you need to clean it, use denatured alcohol and a Q-tip. Do not use any other cleaning agent because damage to the optical lens will occur.
Disconnect the voltage regulator/rectifier and retest. If the engine now has spark, replace the regulator/rectifier.
Using the piercing probes, check the resistance and DVA voltage on the 6-pin stator connector while connected as follows:
RED LEAD TO: BLACK LEAD TO: RESISTANCE DVA READING
Orange Orange/Black 50-60 OHMS 12V or more
Brown Brown/Yellow 450-600 OHMS 150V or more
Brown/White Brown/Black 450-600 OHMS 150V or more
Note:
Low readings on all checks indicate a possible problem with the flywheel magnets that needs to be checked.
