1994 Evinrude 30hp E30ELERM ignition went dead

[CPT MOTU]

Events leading up to issue:
I replaced the ignition/key module in my control box recently (simple wire terminal swap out) and noticed that the new ignition hums an alarm-like sound when the key is turned to the run position. I recalled the seller telling me about the "deadman switch/key" feature that some boats have and figured this new ignition was telling me that it wants me to incorporate a safety key/wriststrap ot else it wont shut up. My old ignition didn't hum for some reason and I had forgotten about this clever safety feature. Today, I took the boat on its maiden voyage for the year and inserted a jumper wire into 2 of the 3 holes in what I figured was the dead man key receptacle which promptly muted the annoying hum. I ran the engine for 3 hours straight all around the lake with no issues whatsoever and figured I would replace the jumper wire with a proper deadman's key as soon as I pass the next marina/store. However, after turing the engine off for an hour to enjoy some quiet, I went to start the engine (jumper wire still in tact) and....

Issue:
No response whatsoever (as if no battery even connected). Several times I: checked to ensure I was in neutral, removed and replaced the jumper wire, confirmed battery terminals were clean/tight, confirmed 12.3 V at battery, etc. Even with the jumper removed, the ignition wont hum anymore with the key in just the run position. I seemingly made no change between the boat running just fine to no ignition response. I even cracked open my control box to start checking my neutral detent switch, to see if I had 12V across any of my new ignition terminals, etc (I always have my multi meter with me). I wasn't able to find 12V anywhere downstream of the battery, but my search was interrupted, so unless I'm advised along a wiser troubleshooting path, I guess I'll get my 12v power supply and my alligator clips and start experimenting. Thinking about it over a beer, the problem sounds like a classic blown fuse problem, except there aren't any fuses that I know of outside my lights (which I never use anyway). My boat is electrically simple and I'm totally dumbfounded on this one.

 

[175se]

usually near the solenoid you should see a red fuse holder, its in there.(its a little bugger fuse).

 

[CPT MOTU]

Thx for the tip! Curious: How would this explain the "no buzz" from the dead man switch when my key is at run position with nothing closing the dead man alarm circuit?

 

[jakedaawg]

I may be way wrong but I have not heard of an alarm for the safety lanyard.

 

[CPT MOTU]

Thx 175se and jakedaawg. You both are right. It turns out...I made a bad assumption in thinking the alarm was a deadman lanyard warning. If this were the case, my ignition wouldn't have even started the engine. The alarm was actually announcing low oil level (I let too much escape when winterizing). Also, the receptacle that I ended up jumpering to silence the alarm was the tach receptacle (still not sure why that worked). Third, the inline solenoid fuse was, indeed, blown (probably at the moment I turned the key off when the jumper was still engaged) which prevented 12v everywhere in my control box when I went to start it back up. All is well now and I learned tons by the experience, including: keeping extra 20A fuses on hand, keeping a pull start rope on hand, and buying a factory and Seloc manual for next time. A+ forum!

 

[CPT MOTU]

Thx 175se and jakedaawg. You both are right. It turns out...I made a bad assumption in thinking the alarm was a deadman lanyard warning. If this were the case, my ignition wouldn't have even started the engine. The alarm was actually announcing low oil level (I let too much escape when winterizing). Also, the receptacle that I ended up jumpering to silence the alarm was the tach receptacle (still not sure why that worked). Third, the inline solenoid fuse was, indeed, blown (probably at the moment I turned the key off when the jumper was still engaged) which prevented 12v everywhere in my control box when I went to start it back up. All is well now and I learned tons by the experience, including: keeping extra 20A fuses on hand, keeping a pull start rope on hand, and buying a factory and Seloc manual for next time. A+ forum!

I got that annoying buzzing alarm twice over the past 2 weeks after about 1 hour of putzing around, so I am thinking it might be an overheat alarm and not a lower unit oil pressure alarm (my lower unit is topped off with gear lube). After turning off the engine for 15min or so, the alarm didn't return. Weird. I also noticed the same observation this guy did: youtube.com/watch?v=saKCCC6fAq0 that shuts that awful noise up (i.e. slightly turn/hold the key to silence the alarm). Just to rehash, my engine (1994 Evinrude 2-stroke ELERM30 in my pontoon boat) was not "hot" either. Runs great except this condition that has happened only a handful of times now in the past 9 yrs. I only use the engine 15-20 times per year and usually just putz around a 150-acre Michigan lake for an hour or so max. at a time, so it's not like my engine has a hard life. Drives me crazy when I'm not doing anything to fix an issue, but it "magically" seems to go away. Usually, things like that are proverbial maintenance warning signs for things to come. Unfortunately, though, this challenges the "if it ain't broke, don't FIX it" adage that inspires me to NOT blow a bunch of time/money tearing **** apart to try and troubleshoot and "fix". Wish I new what the alarm is truly sensing, so I could verify the condition and resolve. Thoughts?

 

[racerone]

Facts----Get a proper wiring diagram.----The " i wonder what happens if I touch this approach " can cost money in a hurry.----Powerpack / stators / coils are not cheap.---The warning buzzer may be for overheating.----Save money work carefully.

 

[jakedaawg]

So, you will get varying alarms. Solid tone, rapid beep, slow beep. Overheat, no oil, low oil. There is no alarm for lower unit oil. The oil you put in the tank is for mixing with the fuel.

The alarms also go bad from time to time resulting in false tones for lack of a better term. These false alerts may be low in volume or sporadic. On these older motors a thorough inspection of the wiring and grounds os warranted before replacing expensive parts. Experience also counts in these seemingly random occurences.

 

[racerone]

There is no VRO system with all those alarms on a 30 HP model.

 

[CPT MOTU]

So, you will get varying alarms. Solid tone, rapid beep, slow beep. Overheat, no oil, low oil. There is no alarm for lower unit oil. The oil you put in the tank is for mixing with the fuel.

The alarms also go bad from time to time resulting in false tones for lack of a better term. These false alerts may be low in volume or sporadic. On these older motors a thorough inspection of the wiring and grounds os warranted before replacing expensive parts. Experience also counts in these seemingly random occurences.

Me, again, with the 1994 Evinrude E30ELERM. I just got another one of those sporadic overheat/alarm conditions the other day - except this time it really was running hot (after only a 20min casual cruise). As soon as the alarm buzzed, I shut the engine down and now the engine won't start at all (no spark it seems). Unfortunately, I didn't check to see if my tell tale was peeing water before I shut it down (it normally pees fine). Is there a "thermal fuse" or something that grounds my coils as a safety mechanism? It seems unlikely that it was hot long enough to cause any real damage, so I'm hopeful it's something simple . Obviously, I need to troubleshoot/resolve why it ran hot suddenly in the first place (e.g. thermostat, etc,), but what would cause it to not start you think?

 

[racerone]

Have you installed a new water pump impeller about every 5 years , yes or no ?

 

[CPT MOTU]

Have you installed a new water pump impeller about every 5 years , yes or no ?

Thank you for the fast response, @racerone . No. I didn't realize that a water pump impeller had such a short life. Good to know. Would a bad water pump impeller cause a "no start" (to prevent overheating perhaps)?

 

[CPT MOTU]

Wondering if I should re-post under a new thread, since it is a new symptom (i.e no start), even though it may be related to this thread/post. I want to make sure the knowledge gathered is findable by others. Thoughts?

 

[racerone]

If it got really hot wires may have melted.----Shorting the ignition.-----But I can not see or inspect your motor.