1994 Bayliner 2452 Mercruiser alpha gen 2 not going into gear forward or reverse

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I was in the water and the engine began to overheat. I replaced the thermostat and then replaced the impeller. When I put the lower end back on I did, or thought I did, ensure that it was in forward gear.

Now, when I put it into forward or reverse the prop does not spin; nor does water flow out the holes near the stern of the lower end when in neutral, but there is a little water that streams out when I put it in gear. With the engine off, I put it in forward and it does not lock counter clockwise, but if I move the shift foot a little more it will lock. Could this mean that I need to adjust the shift cable?

Also, I am trying to figure out why there is no water flowing when the engine is on. I took pictures and ensured that I put the impeller in the correct way(even waited a day and checked it again b4 putting it back together.)

I forgot to mention, that when I replaced the impeller, there was nothing wrong with the one that was in there. So, I'm not sure why it was overheating in the first place, unless it was the thermostat. I did not check the flow after I took it out of the water. I just went in and replaced the impeller and the thermostat at the same time. The thermostat looked like it was very old.


Thanks for any guidance.
 
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Bt Doctur

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I was in the water and the engine began to overheat


May have spun the coupler, try shifting into fwd gear to get prop to lock CCW. Then have someone watch the shaft behind the motor while you step on the prop trying to turn it CCW.
Prop moves, shaft moves = coupler problem
prop moves ,shaft does not move,= outdrive problem.
 

Bondo

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I was in the water and the engine began to overheat.

Ayuh,.... To clarify what BD is askin',.....

What happen right at that time, 'n what did You do, at that time,..??
 
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At the time the boat began to overheat I was cruising about 25 MPH. When the engine started to overheat I took it out of the water. I then proceeded to change the TS and the impeller. When I got it all done, that's when I started having the prop not turning issue.

I'm not 100% but I believe this is what you were asking about. Please see link to video. That foot does not go all the way into forward gear and lock CCW unless I give it a tiny push further. When I put it into forward gear and not give it a push it will rotate CCW but it makes a clicking sound.

https://1drv.ms/v/s!Am7u5NMk3xiFgfd0TwIKSfF0-v_5iA
 
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Bt Doctur

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Try to get the prop to lock in F (ccw) or R (cw) have someone watch the shaft where it enters the rear of the motor while someone stands on a blade trying to turn it in the direction it locks. If locked in F you try to turn the prop CCW , if locked in R try to turn the prop CW.
Prop moves, shaft moves = coupler problem
prop moves ,shaft does not move,= outdrive problem.

Check your messages
 

wrench 3

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It's fairly common to have to do the shift cable adjustments after an R&I on the drive. Also a severe overheat can damage the lower shift cable. However none of that explains the lack of water flow.
How hot did it get and how far did you run it?
 

stonyloam

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OK in your second video when you turned the prop CCW the undercut gears locked, and when you turned the prop CW they slipped apart, what you see is perfectly normal (same thing would happen in reverse). Now if you are not getting water flow through the engine, that has nothing to do with the gears, the vertical driveshaft that drives the impeller turns anytime the engine is running, in gear or not. if you are not getting water flow that indicates that your vertical driveshaft is not turning. But Doctur has good advice.
 

Bt Doctur

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Spoke with him and found he didnt have a guide tube on the pump cover, just tried to install the drive without it . Guessing his missed the pump cover.
Dosent explain the overheating issue unless he caught some debris at the inlet holes
 
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I was able to get the prop to turn and it seems good now. ty Bt

I took the lower end back off and was lucky that I did not miss the pump cover, regardless I did get a guide tube. I did actually find some old rubber that was fell out when I took the lower end off to put the guide tube on. I guess it was from on old impeller, although the two pieces seem too big to have got through the impeller housing. I put it back together and still no water is coming out from the stern of the boat on either side of the engine. One thing I noticed is the starboard side manifold stayed much cooler than the port side. They both were heating up pretty quickly but port side mani was much hotter.

Bt, as far as the water flow I got lost by what hose to disconnect. I traced a hose from the stern to what seems to be an additional cooling element; a long cylinder that has hoses coming out of it, one that traces up to a "T" that trace to each manifold (pic1).

I have a manual and it is not in any of the pictures in the manual. Also, according to the manual I should have two hoses on each of the manifolds. there is only one going into each manifold at the bottom (pic 2).

Was the boat converted to a fresh water cooling system at some point in its life? It says its a closed cooling application on the identification plate on top of the motor(pic3).

I will have to keep at it until I find out why its not flowing.

you can cut and past these into a browser to view
pic1 link
https://1drv.ms/u/s!Am7u5NMk3xiFgfgFkf07vG7I5yG1hw

pic2 link
https://1drv.ms/i/s!Am7u5NMk3xiFgfgEn_qS_dv5WHrcJA

pic3 link
https://1drv.ms/i/s!Am7u5NMk3xiFgfgGnaAGsiFqqG9iAQ
 

Bt Doctur

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It does appear the engine is fresh water cooled. A half system(motor only) the drive impeller feeds water to the heat exchanger in fromt of the motor , and the res section is on top of the motor. Regular AF goes in there. The impeller in the drive send water thru the heat exchanger, the output of the heat exchanger has a T that goes to the bottom of each manifold. Usually if one manifold is cool and the other is hot you have a low water flow problem or that manifold/elbow is clogged.
 
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okay, I will start popping hoses off and checking for clogs. I will get back to this thread as soon as I get that done.
 
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I was able to find the plug. It was the manifold gasket sealer. The guy that replaced the manifold for me sealed up the holes. Now,,, I dont know if this should be another thread, but when I went to start it the starter went out because it was making a bad clunking sound and then the starter just started spinning. Busted starter. I replaced the starter and now it begins to turn over and after 2 seconds it does a grinding/clunking sound again.

Can you tell me what is going on?
 

Bondo

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Can you tell me what is going on?

Ayuh,.... Are you trimmin' the drive down, when ya run it on the muffs,..??

Pull the aft spark plugs, 'n try spinnin' the motor over on the starter, to see if ya got water into the cylinders,....
 
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I pulled off one spark plug and tapped it on my hand and there was water present. I did not try and start it. The trim was not all the way down either... now it is. What do I have to do now?
 

Bondo

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Ayuh,...... Pull all the spark plugs, 'n roll the motor over on the starter,....

Somehow, you've hydro-locked the motor with water,....

Once it's turnin' over easily, put the spark plugs back in, 'n fire it up to get the rest of the moisture outa the cylinders,....
 

Bondo

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Ayuh,.... Now the question is How'd the water get into the cylinders,.... That's a Bad thing,....
 

wrench 3

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It could be that he pulled the risers off without draining the manifolds.
 
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The manifolds were wet when i put them on. I have the boat turning over just fine now, but it wont kick in. I checked all the plugs and there is no more water. Like its not getting gas, but it was starting before I took the plugs out and put them back in.
 
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