1994 60 hp Johnson VRO broke down on me and I couldn't get it started.

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May 8, 2019
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Hi. We went out for a ride last weekend, 1st ride of the year, straight out of winter storage. It took a bit of time to get it going but thats kind of normal. We scooted out to a fishing spot and turned off the outboard. I tested it quickly and it started very easily. We stayed for 5 minutes or so and I tried to take off to a new fishing spot but it wouldn't start.
I initially thought I may have flooded it really good as this happened before but I just couldn't get it started, even after I rested it for 10 minutes or so.
I did notice initially the fuel filter was draining(not staying full) but it continued to stay full afterwards.

We paddled our way back in to a marina after 2 hours and I put it back in storage.

I'm wondering could it have been bad plugs, dirty winter gas. I always winterize (gear oil change and fog it) I did not change the plugs or I did not change the gas which had been sitting there in the tank all winter but I never do!
It just seemed like it wasn't getting it's gas. It wouldn't catch...it turned over good but wouldn't come back to life.
It has always treated me very well in the past and I'm disappointed that this has happened.

Please help me trouble shoot this problem.

Thanks, Chris

P.S. The VRO has been disconnected ever since I owned it.
 

racerone

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It is NOT NORMAL for that motor to be hard to start.----Outline your starting procedure.----You may be missing a step.
 

oldboat1

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Dump in a bottle of dry-gas and try it again. Could turn out to be a fix that will get you up and running.
 
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It is NOT NORMAL for that motor to be hard to start.----Outline your starting procedure.----You may be missing a step.

Hi. For the last 5 year or so, on a cold start I have been flipping the choke up( to the on position-located on the controls) push the key in and turn to the right to start(key still being pushed in). It takes a bit of time but eventually I'll get it. When it's warm, and has been sitting for under 10 minutes, push and hold the key in and turn to the right to start. Usually starts like a clock.
If sitting for 30 minutes or more, then I may have to flip the choke up again, push the key in and hold and turn to the right. Usually starts pretty good too!

Now I have been reading that this may be wrong(maybe I have been lucky for the last 5 years).

Am I supposed to (from cold) Choke on, push key in for 8 secs then release. Then turn key to the right to start?
From warm, we may not need the choke if it's still warm, then push the key in for 8 secs, release then turn to the right to start?

Thanks,
Chris
 
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Dump in a bottle of dry-gas and try it again. Could turn out to be a fix that will get you up and running.

Hi. Does dry-gas mean gas that has not been sitting around all winter which could possible have water collected in it?
Dry-gas = new gas?

Thanks
 

racerone

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There is no choke lever on that motor !----And pushing the key in for 8 seconds is wrong too.-----I believe it is time to read your owners manual .----Or ask at a shop to learn how to start that motor.----Those steps may save you from burning up an expensive starting motor .--- Sorry if I am too blunt on this topic.
 

Tim Frank

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Dry gas is an alcohol blend that is used as an additive to "condition" fuel that has been allowed to "age gracefully".
Works for some wines but not gasoline so much. :)

Troubleshooting involves simply verifying compression with a good tester, checking spark jumps 7/16" open air gap....tested with a proper tester, and ensuring that the fuel system is operating correctly.
 

oldboat1

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Dri-gas comes under various brands -- methanol based product that prevents gasoline freezing. It mixes with gas and limited amounts of water to permit combustion.
 

oldboat1

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^^(that would be prevention of water in gas lines freezing). Also can be effective for small amounts of liquid water moisture (think condensation) in gas tanks.
 
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There is no choke lever on that motor !----And pushing the key in for 8 seconds is wrong too.-----I believe it is time to read your owners manual .----Or ask at a shop to learn how to start that motor.----Those steps may save you from burning up an expensive starting motor .--- Sorry if I am too blunt on this topic.

I don't mind the bluntness but there is a choke on it. The lever on the control's that when I flip up(which opens the carbs) is the choke.
 

oldboat1

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No choke. There is a primer valve, which works in combination with the bulb in the tank fuel line. The lever you describe does increase idle speed for starting, as you suggest.
 

racerone

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???----There are no choke flappers on this motor !!----And you are not the first and not the last to be confused by the way this control and motor operate.
 
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Hi. When I lift that lever, I noticed the carbs valves opening. I took the intake cover off and visually inspected it but it makes sense what you guys say, it does increase the ideling speed. So what does pushing in the key do?

Thanks.
 

oldboat1

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The electric primer system is a valve system manually charged with the bulb in the tank line, with a solenoid that electrically opens the valve by pushing in the key.
 

racerone

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When the motor is cranking the fuel pump on the motor supplies fuel to this electric primer valve.------When you push the key in while cranking , the valve opens.-----Fuel is sprayed into the intake manifold via those wee hoses on the carburetors.-----Far better set-up than choke flappers.------What you see opening up in the carburetors are the throttle valves.----You will have noticed that there are no choke valves.----Education is never a wasted effort.
 

IDFISHER

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Hi. When I lift that lever, I noticed the carbs valves opening. I took the intake cover off and visually inspected it but it makes sense what you guys say, it does increase the ideling speed. So what does pushing in the key do?

Thanks.

The lever is essentially a way to give the motor gas while it is in neutral. Some call it a fast idle lever, others call it a cold start lever, but it's definitely not a choke. The other key component to this system is that you squeeze your primer bulb on your fuel line until firm to pressurize your fuel lines. If your primer bulb isn't firm, pushing the key wont help you.
 
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It's all starting to make sense now. I did find a lot of helpful info on the world wide web too!. Thanks boys.

Johnson/Evinrude cold start procedures

This seems to come up quite a lot, so this Thread is an attempt to capture the common cold-start procedures for the various types of ignitions, and fuel delivery systems for OMC outboards. The following are standard guidelines for cold-starting. Your particular outboard may vary, but these procedures should give you a good baseline. There is no substitute for knowing the particular quirks of your own equipment.

Regardless of the year and type of outboard the steps common to all these are:
  1. Ensure all battery connections are solid, and battery has a full charge (electric start only).
  2. Ensure the fuel lines are properly attached to tank and outboard.
  3. Ensure the fuel tank is properly vented. Buit-in tanks will have a dedicated vent line. Some portable tanks will often have a vent screw built into the cap, others will have auto-venting caps.
  4. Pump the primer bulb in the fuel line until it is hard. If the primer bulb does not become hard you may have other issues including an air leak, defective bulb, or misadjusted carbuerator floats.
  5. If you have electric trim, trim the motor up to eliminate excessive back-pressure during cold start. Do NOT tilt the motor up out of the water.

You are now ready to start your outboard using the following procedures specific to you model.

Remote Keyed Ignition

There are two basic types of fuel systems to aid in cold starting. Solenoid activated Choke plates and solenoid primers. The starting procedures are the same for each.
  1. Place the motor in fast-idle and in neutral gear. Depending on your remote control box, this is acomplished in one of two manners. If you have a dedicated fast-idle lever pull that up between 3/4 to full. If you have a single-lever control and don't have a fast-idle lever, pull the throttle out to lock the engine in neutral and push the throttle forward. If you have a dual-lever control, leave the shifter in neutral, and advance the throttle.
  2. Push the key in, activating the choke plates or primer.
  3. Turn the key to start.
  4. After the motor begins to run, release the key so it returns to the run position and disengages the choke/primer.
  5. As the motor begins to stumble, bump the key in activating the choke/primer. You may need to do this several times until the motor can fast-idle on its own.
  6. If you tilted your motor up for cold-start, lower the motor to its normal operating position.
  7. Visually inspect tell-tale for solid stream indicating proper cooling.
  8. As the motor warms up, slowly begin reducing the fast-idle until the motor is able to run in normal idle on its own.

Additional Notes:
  • Choke Plates: It is often the case that the choke plates are not set so they close fully and stay closed during start. You can remove the outer air cover and visually monitor their operation during start. If they are not closed, or do not stay closed, adjust the position of the choke solenoid in small increments until this condition is achieved.
  • Quick Start: Because these systems automatically advance the timing for a cold start, raising the warm up lever may cause the timing to revert to normal at around 1100 RPM, before the engine is warmed to 96 degrees, defeating QuikStart. Those who have QuikStart may find that cold starts are better without the warm up lever, or with just a little. (thanks ezeke)



Tiller Start

As in the remote keyed ignitions, there are two basic types of fuel systems to aid in cold starting. Choke plates and primers. The starting procedures are different for each and are as follows:

Manual Choke

Choke plates are butterfly plates located at the back of the carburetor body. When engaged, they restrict the flow of air through the carburetor forcing more fuel to be drawn through the idle and mid-range jets while cranking. The choke is only effective while the motor is turning and drawing air through the carburetor body.
  1. Put motor in neutral
  2. Place the throttle in the start position.
  3. Fully engage the choke.
  4. Pull starter rope, or press start button until the engine starts.
  5. As the engine begins to run, slowly slide the choke lever in. The rate of choke disengagement will vary greatly with each individual outboard. Some require immediate disengagement, others require slow disengagement. Know your outboard.
  6. Visually inspect tell-tale for solid stream indicating proper cooling.
  7. As the choke is disengaged and the motor warms up, slowly back the throttle off from start to the shift position.

Manual Primer

The manual primer operates as both a fuel injector and an enriching device. The fuel injector operates w/o air being drawn through the motor. The enriching device is an alternate path from the carburetor to draw fuel through the primer and add more fuel during cold-start.
  1. Put motor in neutral
  2. Place the throttle in the start position.
  3. Cycle through one or two full pull-push operations on the primer knob. This will squirts fuel into the intake manifold.
  4. Pull out primer knob one half-to full out. This will engage the cold-start enricher circuit.
  5. Pull the starter rope, or press start button until the engine starts.
  6. As the engine begins to run, slowly slide the primer knob in. The rate of choke disengagement will vary greatly with each individual outboard. Some require immediate disengagement, others require slow disengagement. Know your outboard.
  7. Visually inspect tell-tale for solid stream indicating proper cooling.
  8. As the choke is disengaged and the motor warms up, slowly back the throttle off from start to the shift position.
 

IDFISHER

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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May 11, 2017
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158
Now that you've found the holy grail of cold start instructions, give it a try and let us know if that helps your problem. If not, time for more troubleshooting :)
 
Joined
May 8, 2019
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Now that you've found the holy grail of cold start instructions, give it a try and let us know if that helps your problem. If not, time for more troubleshooting :)

I will post the results. I'm feeling it's my fault and when I return to my boat, I will surely get it started. I'm guessing I flooded it as best as one could flood it. If I'm wrong, then servicing the electric primer may be the answer. See link below. Thanks

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BrBj2p4A8xQ
 
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Now that you've found the holy grail of cold start instructions, give it a try and let us know if that helps your problem. If not, time for more troubleshooting :)

Well the instructions works like a charm. I can't believe I have been doing this wrong the entire time. The guy who sold it to me didn't give me any instructions. So today I put the ear muffs on, pumped the bulb till hard, lifted the idle lever slightly, pushed in the key a few times, and boom started like a clock. I hope this helps others.

Thanks
 
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