1993 Sylvan 14' Classic Fisherman wiring help

kbeat

Recruit
Joined
Sep 25, 2017
Messages
4
I just bought a 1993 Sylvan 142MC a few days ago hoping to check everything over before the season starts up here. It's got a Johnson 40HP oil injected J40TLERE and a Johnson BFL2TK bow mounted trolling motor, and advice or info on those would be appreciated. My current problem is wiring, the engine system seems fine, but the boat system (Nav lights and livewell) has issues. Not sure if something chafed but I don't have any negative (No continuity back to the negative wire either) coming to the lights and when I flip the switch I show a small voltage (Less than a volt) if I touch the hull with the multi-tester negative probe. I was thinking I would just re-wire the system but I am wondering if there is an easy way to do it without pulling the floor up. The switches are mounted to the front side of the rear seat, the rear nav light is there as well but the front light looks to go under the floor and the livewell mounts to the transom. Any advice would be appreciated as well as any information anyone has on either the boat of motors. Thanks
 

Bondo

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Staff member
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Apr 17, 2002
Messages
70,958
Ayuh,..... Welcome Aboard,..... I'd start at the battery to make sure the switches have a reliable power supply,....
'n a clear solid Ground path back to the battery,... Not through the hull, which will cause electrolysis,...

Then check the switches for secure clean connections,...

If ya have to pull new wires,.... Use the old ones to pull the new ones through,....
 

kbeat

Recruit
Joined
Sep 25, 2017
Messages
4
Bondo, thanks for the reply. Checked the battery and even used another to be sure, I can light up everything with either battery if I run external wires. The way the wiring looks it should not ground through the hull, I assume I have a chafed wire somewhere causing the voltage and lack of negative/ground. Not sure if you are familiar with the style of boat but even though it's a console steer the switches are mounted on the front of the rear bench seat. I tried to lift the carpeted seat itself but even though I thought I had all the fasteners removed it still doesn't want to pull out from under the rod holders that are riveted through the hull. Didn't want to make it worse or break anything if it's as simple as pulling new wires. The only one that looks like it could be a challenge is the run to the front lights, not sure if it would just pull through like a trailer or are the held down under the floor. If anyone has any experience with this I would welcome any advice. Thanks again.
 

Grub54891

Admiral
Joined
Jun 17, 2012
Messages
6,078
I don't think they run under the floor. Most of the time they run under the gunnels. I could be wrong on your boat. If they do run under the floor, I'd say they are fastened, but then again some are run through pvc tubes. *most* wiring don't really get chaffed through the run, it's usually on either end where someone has access to them, and messes them up. Just finished re- wiring a 35 sailboat, the previous owner used household wiring for everything, 12 volt, and 120 volt. What a mess.....
 

lmuss53

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Sep 9, 2008
Messages
1,227
These issues are often caused by corrosion in the connectors at the ends of the wires. I have see perfect looking connectors encased in shrink wrap that were corroded inside to the point where only a trickle of current got through. I would start with a fully charged battery that you are CERTAIN is good and completely charged. I would also cut an inch off of each end of both wires and put on new connectors, to make sure you have good current on both ends.

That seat should not be extremely hard to get off, if you can't lift it off now I would think you probably missed a screw or 2. Maybe post up a couple pictures, it would make it easier to help you.
 
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