1993 Ranger Trail Tandem Trailer - Surge Breaks

[Ranger1993]

Hello,

I purchased my 1993 Ranger bass boat about 3 years ago and have yet to work on the trailer. It has a tandem trailer with surge brakes. The brake fluid has probably not been drained in about 8 years. The brakes are not engaging when I brake when towing the boat. I loosened the bleeder screws back by the brakes and noticed that no brake fluid was coming out. The trailer is filled with brake fluid. I tried pumping the hitch (or actuator) and no fluid came out of the bleeder screw. I am assuming everything is gummed up in the lines. I would like to replace all of the lines and all of the other parts to get the brakes to work. Does anyone have any advice on what I would have to replace. About how much will it cost? The rotors and pads are in good shape.

Thanks,

Ron

 

[Derick881]

Re: 1993 Ranger Trail Tandem Trailer - Surge Breaks

The trailer surge brakes are manufactured by Unique Functional Products. You can look up their website. They have the instruction manual online for you to read and has instructions on maintenance and how to bleed them. The brake system may just need to be bled out to make it work. It is hard to do it alone. If you open the bleeder valve and pump the master cylinder it will push fluid out but suck it back when you release the lever. It sounds like your master cylinder may not be working (it happened to me once). You can order a replacement and install it. It should not be necessary to replace all the lines and components.
The best way I have found to bleed them is to use self bleeding bleeder valves. They have a check valve built into them so all you have to do is place a length of clear tubing over the valve, tie it up higher than the valve, and pump the master cylinder till no more bubbles appear in the line.

UFP does not sell direct to customers. I have bought supplies from pacifictrailers . com There are several vendors available online.

 

[lncoop]

Re: 1993 Ranger Trail Tandem Trailer - Surge Breaks

I'll second what Derick says and add a little. First, just go ahead and replace the master and wheel cylinders. Your best bet is to pull them and take them with you to a trailer parts store if there's one nearby. Once you've slapped on the new cylinders flush the lines until new fluid comes out looking purty and clean, then get the admiral to pump the actuator for the final bleed (no this is not a double entendre). Master should run you around fifty bucks and each wheel cylinder should be twenty or so. Not an expensive project at all. Good luck. Let us know how you come out.