1992 Johnson Outboard 120HP V4

[Stiffler]

Hello I have a 1992 Johnson Outboard 120HP V4 engine problem.
Here's a quick description of what happens I go to turn on the boats engine I have the hose hooked up water is running it turns on works for around 5 to 10 seconds and then turns off by itself. I have a brand new battery, a brand new gas filter, compression on all 4 cylinders is about 120. I also hooked it up to an external gas tank so I can see if it's not a problem from the "old gas" in the gas tank. Please let me know I would really appreciate it thank you in advance!

 

[sutor623]

Have you tried advancing the throttle a bit during warm-up? Have you tried to hold the key "IN" during start-up which will richen up the fuel some?

 

[Stiffler]

Have you tried advancing the throttle a bit during warm-up? Have you tried to hold the key "IN" during start-up which will richen up the fuel some?

Hello and thank you for the fast reply! Just to clarify you mean advance the throttle forward while it is already running or before I start the engine up? Because I have while it ran. And yes when I turn the key it makes one normal beep and then I push the key "IN" and turn it.

 

[sutor623]

Advancing the throttle is pushing the lever forward just a bit (while in neutral) to help start by advancing the timing. You can do this before you even try and start the engine, just dont push it up too far.

When you push the key in you are activating a switch that allows fuel to spray into the cylinder to help the motor start. When you let the key pop back out you close that switch/valve. Have you tried to hold the key in (even after the motor starts) for 5-8 seconds? Dont keep the key turned, just keep it pushed in. This will give her more fuel to start.

 

[Stiffler]

Advancing the throttle is pushing the lever forward just a bit (while in neutral) to help start by advancing the timing. You can do this before you even try and start the engine, just dont push it up too far.

When you push the key in you are activating a switch that allows fuel to spray into the cylinder to help the motor start. When you let the key pop back out you close that switch/valve. Have you tried to hold the key in (even after the motor starts) for 5-8 seconds? Dont keep the key turned, just keep it pushed in. This will give her more fuel to start.

Well practically I can't push the lever forward before I start the engine because it won't let me start the engine if you know what I mean? Otherwise like I said the motor actually does start and runs for about 5 to 10 seconds but then shuts off by itself. I have one more thing I would like to add, I am not sure if gas or oil goes through it but I know the name of it it's the "Primer Solenoid Valve" whatever is going in there that thing is a bit cracked and IT DOES leak but I purchased a new one and I am waiting for it to come in the mail so I can change it, but I would just like to ask can that be the reason the engine is turning off like that or no?

 

[flyingscott]

You have 2 levers on your controller one is throttle and shifting it is the tall one. Next to it is a smaller lever that will control the throttle only. Push that up about half way and try starting it up. The primer leaking is a problem but it is working because the motor starts and runs. If you have a built in controller should be a button to release the shifting action and use it as a throttle. We can't tell you what the problem is until you get the correct starting procedure. Goes like this

make sure fuel is connected Prime the gas ball
Push the small throttle lever up about 1/2 way
Turn the key push primer and try to start
If the motor overrevvs push the small throttle down until you get the idle about 1500 rpm to warm it up
When it is warmed up 5-10 min push the small throttle all the way down.
Should now be idling

 

[sutor623]

Well practically I can't push the lever forward before I start the engine because it won't let me start the engine if you know what I mean? Otherwise like I said the motor actually does start and runs for about 5 to 10 seconds but then shuts off by itself. I have one more thing I would like to add, I am not sure if gas or oil goes through it but I know the name of it it's the "Primer Solenoid Valve" whatever is going in there that thing is a bit cracked and IT DOES leak but I purchased a new one and I am waiting for it to come in the mail so I can change it, but I would just like to ask can that be the reason the engine is turning off like that or no?

That primer solenoid is what you are activating when you push the key in, and yes it can prevent the motor from starting if it isn't working. There should be a warmup lever, if not there is a button in the center of the shift lever that you can press in, then when you move the handle forward it will stay in neutral and allow you to turn the motor over.

 

[Stiffler]

You have 2 levers on your controller one is throttle and shifting it is the tall one. Next to it is a smaller lever that will control the throttle only. Push that up about half way and try starting it up. The primer leaking is a problem but it is working because the motor starts and runs. If you have a built in controller should be a button to release the shifting action and use it as a throttle. We can't tell you what the problem is until you get the correct starting procedure. Goes like this

make sure fuel is connected Prime the gas ball
Push the small throttle lever up about 1/2 way
Turn the key push primer and try to start
If the motor overrevvs push the small throttle down until you get the idle about 1500 rpm to warm it up
When it is warmed up 5-10 min push the small throttle all the way down.
Should now be idling

Well the thing is I don't have 2 levers, this is SIMILAR to what I have on my boat http://i.ebayimg.com/images/i/361303447681-0-1/s-l1000.jpg where that button at the top is for tilting the engine up and down, I don't really have a button or second lever, am I missing something?

 

[Stiffler]

That primer solenoid is what you are activating when you push the key in, and yes it can prevent the motor from starting if it isn't working. There should be a warmup lever, if not there is a button in the center of the shift lever that you can press in, then when you move the handle forward it will stay in neutral and allow you to turn the motor over.

I do realize that there could be a second lever but I do not have one on mine, I have this http://i.ebayimg.com/images/i/361303447681-0-1/s-l1000.jpg and also there is no button on it. Thank you in advance!

 

[sutor623]

I don't have much experience with those newer controls. Does that lever "pop" out towards you and then move forward to disengage the gear case? I bet it does. Either way, get that solenoid repaired, and hold the key in a little longer when trying to keep her fired up.

 

[racerone]

Repair parts for the solenoid are much cheaper than the assembly !!---And you should ask an experienced person or shop about the operation of the control box .

 

[flyingscott]

That looks like a newer style than would be on a 1992 model. If there is no way to separate the throttle and shifter operations could mean it was meant for a fuel injected motor. Do what racerone said and call a dealer.

 

[sutor623]

Do you have the round plug that mates up to the red round plug on your wiring harness, or is there a conversion cable from the 3 square (control box wirnig) to round (motor wiring)? In '96 they switched to a whole different set of controls, which may be why you cant advance the timing/throttle when in neutral. Some people have newer controls on their older motors and have this conversion done.

 

[sutor623]

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Here is the conversion harness that I speak of. It is one of these two adapters...........

 

[sutor623]

And by the way, that control box that you pictured on here still has the push button neutral warm-up function. Should be right where the handle meets the box.

 

[sutor623]

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