1992 60hp Power Head Rebuild.Update more help needed.

Deryk

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I have read through several different posts and gathered quite a bit of information. Now I need some help with things that I could not find covered.<br /><br />First off, my motor is a 1992 Johnson 60hp model TJ60TLENE. On Thursday I was on the lake trolling for about 2 hours and the motor was running pretty good. At one point the buzzer for the VRO (I am assuming) sounded intermittently, so I stopped and noticed the oil tank had less than a 1/4 tank so I filled it up. Continued on trolling with no further issues. When heading back to the dock @ about 5000rpm I suddenly lost power and stalled. The engine then had a hard time restarting and when it did it ran very rough. Got it home, pulled it out of the water and took it to the closest marina. They did a compression test #1 110 #2 50 #3 111. They then pulled the head cover to see if it was the head gasket, which it wasn't. There was scoring in #2 and some in #1 (from reading this board this is quite common). At this point I have to assume it is the VRO that failed. The dealer of course wanted $3000+ for the repair or a new four stroke installed same day for $7000.<br /><br />These are my next steps, please expand or point out any cautionary notes.<br /><br />1. I ordered the service, owners and parts manual today from Marineengines.com<br /><br />2. While waiting for the manual I want to pull the block and send it to a machine shop. But what do I tell them to do? Since I bought the motor used I do not know if it was worked on yet. What should the original bore specs be? Should I get #3 done as well while it’s apart?<br /><br />3. Once the manual arrives I want to order parts.<br />a) os rings or os pistons? .020 or .030?<br />b) new gears<br />c) new gasket set<br />d) carb rebuild kits<br />e) anything else since it’s open?<br /><br />4. VRO? After this incident I really want to toss the VRO. So if I order the commercial fuel pump and mounting bracket. Will the VRO buzzer and any other components be affected?<br /><br />5. What other items will I require that may not be in the service manual (oils, grease, sealants, misc. hardware etc...)? I noticed one post about "Updates"?<br /><br />Thanks in advance for any input, <br />Deryk<br /><br />PS Sorry if this is long winded, just trying to provide as much info as possible.<br /><br />1.
 

OBJ

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Re: 1992 60hp Power Head Rebuild.Update more help needed.

Sorry to hear about the trouble Deryk. Not fun when on the water.<br /><br />First...wait for the manual...hope you got an OEM. This will give you the info on boring you need such as standard bore size and how to figure how much to bore. You need this info to measure the cylinders with a micrometer or have the machine shop do it for you. Then you will know what size of over size pistion to get.<br /><br />Your problem was most like carberation for the #2 hole. If it was the VRO pumps fault, then all the cylinders would be effected....which leads to....besure to rebuild all three carbs as part of the rebuild.<br /><br />You will need a powerhead gasket set. All the gaskets and seals will be in the set. <br /><br />Follow the instructions in the manual for sealants. Most are common and can be bought at the local auto parts store.<br /><br />Rebuild the water pump and replace the t-stat. Always a good thing to do for a rebuild.<br /><br />Use a camera and take pictures of how the parts go on if you need to...will help a ton!<br /><br />If you need a parts breakdown, check the Bombardier link below. Click on engine diagrams and follow the instructions. It will give a complete break down of the power head as well as part numbers.<br /><br />Post questions here on iboats if you have them. Always someone around to help....Good Luck!<br /><br />Link to Bomby: http://www.evinrude.com/en-US/
 

Dhadley

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Re: 1992 60hp Power Head Rebuild.Update more help needed.

The middle cylinder on that model runs the hottest. Thats why problems usually show up there first. OBJ is correct, the VRO did not fail. There may be water in the oil tank or a carb issue or...whatever. You need to determine what happened to cause the problem and fix that. The scored piston is not the cause. A scored piston is a result.<br /><br />A couple of questions, how long of a run was it on the return trip? (It shouldnt matter, but it may lead to something) What spark plugs are you using? What grade fuel and how old is it? Whats the top rpms?
 

Dhadley

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Re: 1992 60hp Power Head Rebuild.Update more help needed.

Oh yeah -- I'd also do like OBJ said and let the machine shop decide on the boring. Just tell them you need it cleaned up to the nearest oversize. make sure to use a marine machine shop, not a machine shop thats strictly automotive.<br /><br />But just for your own info, pistons come in std, .020, .030 and .040 oversize.
 

Deryk

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Re: 1992 60hp Power Head Rebuild.Update more help needed.

Should I bore all three cylinders?<br />If my pistons are still in good shape can oversized rings be used?<br /><br />The return trip was short, 10 min. Spark plugs are NGK BPZ8HS. The fuel was a mixture of 87 and 89. It topped out at about 5400.<br /><br />Yes I ordered the OEM Service Manual.
 

Dhadley

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Re: 1992 60hp Power Head Rebuild.Update more help needed.

Your machine shop will tell you what has to be bored after they measure the cylinders. The pistons need to be out so they can measure the bottom of the cylinder.<br /><br />Those plugs contribute to higher combustion temps. So will the 89 octane fuel. 5400 is lugging the motor which increases combustion temps. The fuel by itself probably would have been OK if the other 2 factors were not there. Combustion temps that are too high result in just what you see.<br /><br />To avoid a repeat performance you need to correct those issues. If youre going to continue to use those plugs youll need to rejet the carbs. If youre going to continue at 5400 you'll need to decarb quite often. That will help the rings from sticking but it wont help drop your combustion temps. <br /><br />We'd rather see that motor in the 5800-6000 range and using Champion plugs. Idealy it needs a diet of 87 octane and good TCW III oil.<br /><br />Even at 5800-6000 we'd suggest richening up the mid range by a couple of jet sizes.
 

Deryk

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Re: 1992 60hp Power Head Rebuild.Update more help needed.

Is there a way to install a temp gauge to monitor what's going on in the head?
 

Dhadley

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Re: 1992 60hp Power Head Rebuild.Update more help needed.

Yes. Its called an EGT or exhaust gas temp gauge. Theres a probe that goes into the exhaust. The EGTs we use on dynos have a probe for each cylinder. Generally the ones on the race boats have a probe for each bank.<br /><br />Its certianly good info but youll have to understand how weather affects it. I've won races with 1050 EGTs and after a cold front, stuck a piston at 950 the next day.<br /><br />To be quite honest, on a stock motor at 6000 or less it may get confusing. Kinda bordering on "TMI".
 

OBJ

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Re: 1992 60hp Power Head Rebuild.Update more help needed.

One more thing...get rid of the Russian spark plugs......use the recommended Champion plug which is a QL77JC4 set at .030.
 

Deryk

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Re: 1992 60hp Power Head Rebuild.Update more help needed.

At $15 a plug for the NGK I have no problem going with the Champions.....
 

OBJ

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Re: 1992 60hp Power Head Rebuild.Update more help needed.

$15 a plug?????? You Gotta' be kidding!!
 

Deryk

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Re: 1992 60hp Power Head Rebuild.Update more help needed.

No one was more surprised than me when the parts guy handed my the interact machine......<br /><br />Then he went on about the plugs having a resistor that prevents interferance...
 

OBJ

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Re: 1992 60hp Power Head Rebuild.Update more help needed.

Uhhhhhhhh......I'll try to put this as nice as possible....Bull$H!T. Get the Champ plug from a local NAPA dealer for about $4 a plug....does the same darn thing and is the recommended plug.
 

Dhadley

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Re: 1992 60hp Power Head Rebuild.Update more help needed.

Did this happen on the first trip out with the new NGK's?
 

Deryk

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Re: 1992 60hp Power Head Rebuild.Update more help needed.

Yes, I only purchased the boat last October and used a few times this summer. Last month I decided to do a decarb and replace the plugs. This is the first time it's been on the water since.<br /><br />But, the motor was not idleing well and stalled when you tried to put into gear. So I now think that the carbs played a bigger roll in the engine failure. Combination of old gas and possibly water in the fuel.<br /><br />Has anyone ordered the head rebuild kits from marineengine.com before? If so the only other item I will need to order is the carb kits. What is the quality of the parts shipped in the kit?<br /><br />Where can I get a load wheel to replace the prop when testing in a tank? Is this recomened?
 

Dhadley

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Re: 1992 60hp Power Head Rebuild.Update more help needed.

Youll also need a water pump kit.
 

Deryk

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Re: 1992 60hp Power Head Rebuild.Update more help needed.

My owner's manual arrived a couple of day's ago and I have started to review the Powerhead section and the Fuel Systems section for the carbs. There is a list of "OMC Special Tools Required". I would like to know if these are mandatory or if they can be substituted and by what.<br /><br />Power Head:<br />391259 - Bearing and Seal Remover<br />396748 - Lifting Fixture<br />331638 - Torquing Socket<br />303858 - Retaining Ring Pliers<br />326573 - Piston Cradle<br />326356 - Pressing Pin<br />318600 - Cone<br />318599 - Driver<br />326592 - Ring Compressor, Standard<br />330222 - Ring Compressor, Oversize<br />396749 - Alignment Fixture<br />336660 - Wrist Pin Bearing Tool<br /><br />Fuel System:<br />234891 - Float Gauge<br />390954 - Vacuum Gauge<br />325043 - Hose Clamp wrench<br />326623 - Cleaning Tool<br />317002 - Orifice Driver<br /><br />For the Sync and Link<br />384887 - Piston Stop<br />In another manual there was a load wheel for testing WOT in a tank. Any comments?<br /><br />Thanks in advance. I would like to be as prepared as possible before I begin this monumental undertaking ;)
 

Deryk

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Re: 1992 60hp Power Head Rebuild.Update more help needed.

Can anyone advise where I can buy some of the specialty tools online that are critical to a successful rebuild?
 
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