1991 Seaswirl 208 5.7 L Omc Advise

#1CATDADDY

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I have a 1991 Seawswirl with the 5.7L OMC and I have been having ongoing issues with shifting(2-3 yrs). Over the fall I put in the shop thinking the mechanic had OMC experience but apparently not as it is acting up this spring again. The ESA was replaced and was working for a while. It was also tuned up
and was actually running OK last winter before I winterized it. The shifter because it was the original and the trim switch went out was replaced and it is still sticking in forward(or reverse) and hard to get into neutral unless I turn off the key,shift then restart. It has also started to idle a bit rough and the shift interruptor switch may be the problem too and now I am hearing talk about the shift cable that all seem to be related so I have ordered a repair manual to start learning how to repair on my own,hopefully, and with the help of the forum. I am also aware now like those before me that it runs great out of water and not with a load. Please feel free to bombard we with more ideas and I will be relying on those with more smarts than I.
 

bsh21wash

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Re: 1991 Seaswirl 208 5.7 L Omc Advise

If you google OMC cobra, you can find some helpful tips. I do know that OMC had some defective ESA springs that would cause some problems.
 

dave4151

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Re: 1991 Seaswirl 208 5.7 L Omc Advise

I'd start with making sure the idle is below 650. You didn't say what manual you ordered. Get a Cobra manual and parts catalog off ebay. Also get a Seloc manual, it will give you different options on the tools you can use instead of the OMC tools they say you have to have. Google "stewart hastings cobra", he has some good info in his write up.
 

Boatin Bob

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Re: 1991 Seaswirl 208 5.7 L Omc Advise

It's actually Stuart Hastings and here is a direct link to his "must have" site if you have a Cobra shifting problem.

Stuart Hastings
 

dave4151

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Re: 1991 Seaswirl 208 5.7 L Omc Advise

My apologies to Stuart, I put that search string in Google and never noticed I spelled his name wrong.

I just checked my manual (PWC & PWS models) and it states the idle setting should be 550-600 in forward gear. I had mine running great last year and was sitting there with nothing to work on and figured this thing isn't idling fast enough to charge the battery so I bumped it up a little. Well, next time I went out I couldn't get it out of gear without shutting it off. I put the idle back within the specified range and I didn't have another problem. Mine is actually a '90 so it may be different if you have a '91 with electronic ignition. You can hit the micro switch with your finger and see if the ESA is flat out working or not. I haven't had a problem after replacing the old shift cable with a red one like Stuart said.
 

#1CATDADDY

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Re: 1991 Seaswirl 208 5.7 L Omc Advise

Thanks for all the positive feedback. I will definitely check out the Hastings e-site and let everyone know what I find out. It does look like the micro switch may be the culprit as I have been messing with it for about 2 years and it finally got worse. The cable idea may be an issue also and I think you are right on about the idle. I ended up ordering the Clymer manual as that was all I had found at first web search, but sounds like I will be getting the Seloc also soon. I will still be better off than allowing these so-called "OMC" mechanics rip me off.

Thanks
 

Coors

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Re: 1991 Seaswirl 208 5.7 L Omc Advise

You'll still need the OMC manual.
 

Lyndy

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Re: 1991 Seaswirl 208 5.7 L Omc Advise

I ended up ordering the Clymer manual as that was all I had found at first web search, but sounds like I will be getting the Seloc also soon.

Hi CatDaddy,

I have a 1977 OMC Stringer. I have both Clymer and Seloc Manuals. But they are only supplements and not replacements for the Factory Manual. Keep looking for one and get one as quickly as is practical. There is one Ebay'r that sells a lot of Manuals. I got my Factory Manual from him.​
 

#1CATDADDY

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Re: 1991 Seaswirl 208 5.7 L Omc Advise

Thanks Ltndy, I will try and track one down. I didn't have any luck a while back so that's when I ordered the Clymer manual, which should arrive this week. Again, I know I'm just a cadet but I am willing to learn, sir. And, send any other info you think about my way.
 

Lyndy

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Re: 1991 Seaswirl 208 5.7 L Omc Advise

Sorry, Lyndy, my typing needs some work too.

:redface: That's Ok, my typing is always in need of improving. I have a 1975 OMC Stringer, not a 1977.:redface:
 

#1CATDADDY

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Re: 1991 Seaswirl 208 5.7 L Omc Advise

My apologies to Stuart, I put that search string in Google and never noticed I spelled his name wrong.

I just checked my manual (PWC & PWS models) and it states the idle setting should be 550-600 in forward gear. I had mine running great last year and was sitting there with nothing to work on and figured this thing isn't idling fast enough to charge the battery so I bumped it up a little. Well, next time I went out I couldn't get it out of gear without shutting it off. I put the idle back within the specified range and I didn't have another problem. Mine is actually a '90 so it may be different if you have a '91 with electronic ignition. You can hit the micro switch with your finger and see if the ESA is flat out working or not. I haven't had a problem after replacing the old shift cable with a red one like Stuart said.

Is there any way besides a timing light and all the equipment to get the idle to 500-600? I could just get my son to drive ariound in gear while I adjust up and down. Seriously though, is there another way?
 

bruceb58

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Re: 1991 Seaswirl 208 5.7 L Omc Advise

You have a tachometer on your boat right?

Just adjust the carb and see what it idles at after the adjustment.

No timing light needed! Have you ever used a timing light before? You know how it is used right?
 

#1CATDADDY

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Re: 1991 Seaswirl 208 5.7 L Omc Advise

OK...I am going to adjust the idle to within that range but I still have a question. Can anyone tell me again what causes this boat to do so well in the driveway with a water hose and then I put in the lake("under pressure") and it starts sticking in gear, can't get into neutral, idling rough, and all that?

It just seems so odd that it runs great through all the steps out of the lake....Thanks for listening.
 

bruceb58

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Re: 1991 Seaswirl 208 5.7 L Omc Advise

I take it that you didn't read the Hastings article right?

When you are in the driveway, there is no pressure on the dog gears because there is no water on the prop. When there is pressure on the dog gears they are hard to pull apart because they have angles on the opposing gears.

When you are in the water, the extra pressure needed to shift causes a microswitch on the linkage between the lower shift cable and the shift cable from your control to activate. This switch is hooked up to your ESA module which interrups the spark and makes your engine stumble during the shift.

You need to verify the following:

1) Your lower shift cable operates without binding.
2) Your lower shift cable is adjusted properly
3) Your microswitch is operating and the ESA causes your engine to stumble.

On older Cobras with the first generation ESA there is another switch called the overstroke switch. Newer ESAs did not need this switch. Your present setup may still have the second switch but it may not be hooked up if the ESA has been changed out to the newer version. What is the part number on your ESA?
 

#1CATDADDY

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Re: 1991 Seaswirl 208 5.7 L Omc Advise

Thanks, Bruceb58.

I did read the Hastings link once over and found it a bit confusing to this neophyte. I will atempt to adjust the linkage as it says and I was hoping though just to gather as much info and pointers so as to check out my boat this weekend on the water then I can try out all my repair options so far.

I really think it is the shift interruptor switch and I will be targeting that then. The ESA module was supposedly replaced recently along with a tune-up(at least thats what the repair work order says) and it was running pretty good up to now, but the problem shifting out of gear has been ongoing and continues. Then I can address the StaBil fuel stabilizer that was put in the tank last winter, and possibly old fuel in the tank,moisture in the Distributor cap...

I will let you know what I find out then send you part numbers for ESA,shift interruptor,etc., at that time. I think I saw a link to a site for interruptor switches(?) to replace.

Thanks
 

bruceb58

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Re: 1991 Seaswirl 208 5.7 L Omc Advise

When you get back on the lake. have someone shift the boat while you look at the mechanism that the ESA switch is mounted on. See if it looks like it is being activated.

Are you having trouble in both "reverse to neutral" and "forward to neutral"?

It could be that you just have a really stiff shift cable and it needs to be replaced. Do you ever boat in salt water?
 

Coors

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Re: 1991 Seaswirl 208 5.7 L Omc Advise

The esa is bad(or the switch); sounds like shift cable is binding, did a tech replaced esa(he did check the switch?)
 

#1CATDADDY

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Re: 1991 Seaswirl 208 5.7 L Omc Advise

Well I got he boat out on the water,adjusted the idle to about 650 and tweaked the shift and throttle cables,checked to make sure the microswitches were moving, and it ran great. Even shifted into neutral from forward and reverse after a little jiggling the shifter. Drove it around for a good 30 minutes,stopped several times to shift F N R many times, and thought I had it. Went to the dock to prepare to put it back on trailer, shifted into reverse to back away from dock, and it stuck in reverse big time. It even key starts in reverse gear now. No Neutral.Got it on trailer and home,and is still in reverse. I am guessing lower cable but that's another project. Any way just to get it out of reverse so that I can test it out some more?
 

bruceb58

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Re: 1991 Seaswirl 208 5.7 L Omc Advise

Can you get it out of reverse by just trying to put it in forward?

I can almost guarantee that the lower cable is shot. Sounds like the symptoms I always had before I replaced my cables.

I replaced a bunch of those cable when I owned my Cobra.

With the drive tilted up, you can see the cable as it enters the drive. See if you can see if the cable housing is starting to pull away at that point.
 
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