1991 Monterey W/Merc 3.0 Questions

[Drock1979]

Hey Everyone,

Well it's finally here, boat is out of storage and want to do a couple things before putting in the water.

#1 - I noticed the reservoir tank on my J1171 Marine trim motor was empty and moving around when I winterized the boat. How does this tank attach?

#2 - When removing the antifreeze from the motor I noticed black chunks of rubber... Yup believe this is the water pump fins. Any suggestions on making sure I get all the rubber bits out?

#3 - Probably has to do with #2, but water transfer pump seems to have a little movement to it... also noticed the belt has some wear on it and black debris around the belt areas. Suggestions?

#4 - If I pull the plugs should the bottom pully turn the motor, obviously with some effert...

#5 - I hate the muffs, how can I land test the motor without muffs? Think large garbage can would be to small.

Thanks for all help and suggestions.

 

[dubs283]

Guessing this is an alpha sterndrive

Trim fluid reservoir (later model oildyne) attaches to the pump with a screw in the middle. Not uncommon to see the reservoir crack/break

Rubber bits in the exhaust could be impeller pieces but also parts of flapper, hoses, exhaust boots, etc.. Best way to clear cooling system debris is by dismantling it and cleaning/flushing suspect areas. How big are the rubber pieces?

Which pump do you mean by water transfer pump?

Would be easier/safer to remove the drive and belt(s) before turning the engine over by hand. If the engine currently runs there's little/no risk of overtorqueing the balancer bolt. What is the reason you're wanting to do this?

I've seen people use a deep livestock feed/water trough with some success. A back in test tank would work but you may as well just be at the ramp

 

[Scott Danforth]

1, there are a few types of reservoirs. if its an oildyne, the tank is held in place with a single screw from the bottom. if its a prestolite, its held in place from the top

you have to back-flush the system from the manifolds to the thermostat housing, and from the thermostat housing to the drive to get the rubber bits out.

you mean circulating pump?

yes, unless you get a garbage can big enough to put the whole boat in it, use the muffs, or pull the drive and shove the garden hose in the inlet tube. remember, the water level must be 6" or more above the pump, which means the drive must be submerged.

 

[Drock1979]

Guessing this is an alpha sterndrive

Alpha Gen 1 Yes, Sorry should have mentioned

Trim fluid reservoir (later model oildyne) attaches to the pump with a screw in the middle. Not uncommon to see the reservoir crack/break

Rubber bits in the exhaust could be impeller pieces but also parts of flapper, hoses, exhaust boots, etc.. Best way to clear cooling system debris is by dismantling it and cleaning/flushing suspect areas. How big are the rubber pieces?

Not overly big at all like small pebbles.

Which pump do you mean by water transfer pump?

Circulation pump I guess some call it... attached to the alternator and crankshaft with a belt and then power steering with another belt.

Would be easier/safer to remove the drive and belt(s) before turning the engine over by hand. If the engine currently runs there's little/no risk of overtorqueing the balancer bolt. What is the reason you're wanting to do this?

It ran last year but at end of season there was a weird noise... want to ensure each section feels smooth.

I've seen people use a deep livestock feed/water trough with some success. A back in test tank would work but you may as well just be at the ramp

Ok good ideas thanks so much.

P.S
What are the belt numbers for the Merc 3.0 Powersteering Pump Belt & Alternator/Crankshaft Belt.

 

[Drock1979]

1, there are a few types of reservoirs. if its an oildyne, the tank is held in place with a single screw from the bottom. if its a prestolite, its held in place from the top

you have to back-flush the system from the manifolds to the thermostat housing, and from the thermostat housing to the drive to get the rubber bits out.

Where is the best access points to back-flush? Been many many years since been a boater and my old man was my go to guy back then. Sadly he is no longer with us.

you mean circulating pump?

Yeah maybe my terminology is wrong... has belt that goes to the alternator and crankshaft and then another belt to the power steering.

yes, unless you get a garbage can big enough to put the whole boat in it, use the muffs, or pull the drive and shove the garden hose in the inlet tube. remember, the water level must be 6" or more above the pump, which means the drive must be submerged.

But have to change my water pump in the bottom end before do any of this lol.

Thanks for help and suggestions.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Thats an oildyne pump

Pull the drive, you are supposed to every year anyway. Check bellows, gimbal bearing and alignment. Then split it on the tailgate of the truck

Start at the exhaust elbows and work backwards to the raw water pump..... Backflushing as you go

 

[dubs283]

You can replace the trim fluid reservoir, be sure to get new o rings too

Start by checking the impeller for missing/broken vanes. If intact the rubber bits are from elsewhere, wag is crumbling interior of exhaust boot

If the circulating water pump pulley is wobbling its either loose or the shaft bearing has failed

No clue on belt part numbers. Easiest solution is to bring it to your laps and match it up.