Re: 1990 mercruiser 4.3 no spark
Flow chart problem #1: Substitute a new ignition coil. That is shotgunning parts too! Did you ever wonder why no one has a coil tester? It's because they are not necessary.<br /><br />Flow chart problem #2: No where does this flow chart take into account for the possibility of a faulty coil wire. If there was an open in the coil wire and you used this flow chart, then you will have successfully replaced a good coil and good ignition module.<br /><br />Flow chart problem #3: Replace igniton module harness without ohming it out first?? More shotgunning.<br /><br /><br />By grounding the wht/grn wire, you are basically taking the place of the RPM sensor (crank sensor or distributor sensor) and proving that the ignition module, wiring, coil and coil wire are ok. This is really kind of an outdated method. I prefer a labscope to monitor a crank position sensor output, but I doubt the fellow here in need of help has one or knows how to use one.<br /><br /><br />My bad on the module/sensor confusion. I was thinking in terms of later model ignition systems that only had a sensor mounted in the distributor.<br /><br />In any event, given that the test light is not blinking (it does light, correct?) and the coil is now new, I would suggest, if you have the capabilty, to ohm out the coil wire or replace it with a new one (they are cheap and just a "testing" one is readily available). <br /><br />If there is still no spark, perform the crank sensor "substitution" test outlined above. Make sure you have a good ground!! If you now have spark, the crank sensor (pick-up coil, rpm sensor, Hall Effect switch - pick your terminology) is defective. If you still don't have spark, then the ignition module is bad.