1988 j110 after rebuild

[dmurray]

I recently rebuilt my outboard because powerheads and new motors are toooo expensive. I am now trying to locate what caused my five-day learning experience. I replaced my fuel pump, plugs, wires, rebuilt powerhead (had to shave block, heads and re-sleeve cylinder). This website helped me to get where I am now. I run the motor and it wants to bog down. When I test ran the motor I could get it to a plane then it would bog down, if I push the choke it helps some of the time. I tested my overheat alarm and it just sparks (is it bad?). I made a spark tester and I get a 7/16 spark on all coils. My fuel lines appear to be in great shape with no leaks. My plugs are oily after I run the motor (I used extra oil to break in the motor). If I disconnect the big red plug, can I run the motor to see if it is anything electrical (i.e. ignition)? I do not believe that it is an overheat problem, because it happens within seconds, pumps water constant at hose and within one minute at exhaust. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks in advance for any help, and happy Veterans Day.<br />Don

 

[Dhadley]

Re: 1988 j110 after rebuild

A couple of things come to mind. First, what caused the motor to need a rebuild? Has that been identified and corrected?<br /><br />Second, it sounds as if the carbs need a good bath. Always a standard part of any rebuild.<br /><br />Another thing is that if you had to deck the block and cut the heads, be careful. There's not much room for error there.<br /><br />Then, lets get that warning system working.

 

[dmurray]

Re: 1988 j110 after rebuild

Thanks for the reply. One piston ring broke and scorred the cylinder wall. I finished the rebuild a few days ago.<br /><br />when I had the deck and block cut, it was close. I put the heads on without the gasket and it barely touched. After I put the gasket on it did not touch. It is somewhere in the range of 50k. My plugs are not touching. I am now running .30, .030, std, .044<br /><br />Should the wire spark to ground on the alarm system?

 

[Dhadley]

Re: 1988 j110 after rebuild

If the pistons touch -- at all -- without the gaskets, they'll touch at some point in the rpm band. Dont run it like that. Get a set of used heads. Or at least run the thick head gaskets. .050 off is way too much. Depending how much of that .050 was off the block I'd get different heads and run the thick gaskets.<br /><br />If it broke a ring it was probably on the starboard side. Most likely due to coking which points to a set up problem. Easily corrected by setting up at 5800 with a average load.

 

[dmurray]

Re: 1988 j110 after rebuild

I certainly have gained a new found respect for those of you who work on outboards, especially those who do it for a career. I am going to search for heads and oversized gasket. I am going to clean carbs (rebuild). I am confused on the meaning of coking?

 

[bonitoman]

Re: 1988 j110 after rebuild

Who told you to cut the block? That should not be touched unless it is in terrible shape. You can play with the heads alittle but do not shave them down. Everyone thinks by shaving a head compression is going to go thru the roof and you will have so much more than a stock engine. That is false. I would get different heads like Dhadley suggests. If it is to tight all of your time and money will be wasted. I have an 86 110 that I built 3 years ago and they are great engines. The toughest thing is changing thermostats because of the bubble back. Do it now before you mount the powerhead.

 

[dmurray]

Re: 1988 j110 after rebuild

bonitoman,<br />My block had to be shaved because the rebuild before I bought it had been re-sleeved and the sleeves were not true. infact, the bore the previous person did was not centered, thus not letting me re-bore this one. I am definately looking for oversized gaskets and new heads. I tried to take my time and do things right, but sometimes this driveway mechanic stuff is rough. I have learned alot and I will eventually get it. Your are right, those t-stats are a pain w/bback. You should have seen me do that one last year w/no experience<br />thanks for your time.<br />Don

 

[Dhadley]

Re: 1988 j110 after rebuild

Dont worry about the offset bores in an OMC. Very seldom are the bores exactly in the center of the cylinders. Naturally there is a point that it becomes necessary to re-center but thats no big deal.<br /><br />Coking is that black sticky carbon like stuff on your pistons. The rings usually stick in the ring groove opposite the gap first. As more and more of the ring sticks in the groove the piston looses support. The gap end of the rings are sticking out and eventually as the piston rocks the ends get sheared off. <br /><br />The gaskets you need are not oversized but thicker. If you ask for oversized gaskets I'm sure youll get a puzzled look. Any Evin/Johnson dealer can get them. They were refered to as "low lead" gaskets too. 332819 I believe is the part number.

 

[GatorMike]

Re: 1988 j110 after rebuild

I've got a suggestion you might think about. I am a novice who has rebuilt 2 outboards. After you make the adjustments you have talked about if you are still having problems you might do what I did. Seven years ago I rebuilt a 1.6 litre seadrive and struggled for weeks trying to get it running right. One day I took it to a pro and he had it tuned in no time for just over $100. When I think of the money and headaches I could have saved if I had taken it to him as soon as I had it back together and running it makes me sick. Just a few months ago I rebuilt a 115 Johnson with the help of a manual and some good advice from Dhadley. This time once I got it running and spent an hour or so trying to get the troubleshooting and fine tuning done I decided to take it to a pro. For less than $50 he had it right. I could have screwed around with it and maybe broke something or just wasted my time but I chose a different route.

 

[dmurray]

Re: 1988 j110 after rebuild

I cleaned my carbs and replaced my vro w/regular fuel pump. The motor ran good for an hour than began to cause the same problems before rebuild. I was losing spark on the top/stbd cylinder, I was able to pull plug wire free and no knee jerk from spark. I could not do the same for the others and she would stall. I switched a few coils to see if the coil was giving a weak spark, and I could still grab the top/stbd and not the rest. I have new plugs/wires and great compression 125, 125, 130, 130. I am beginning to suspect the powerpack. I do not have the tester for the power pack. I spark tested the coils and they look good, but I believe under load the spark is weak. Is there a trick to test a powerpack dry?

 

[dmurray]

Re: 1988 j110 after rebuild

Update:<br />I used the wrong sealant on the powerhead. To make a long story short, I took it to local mechanic and he is going to tear it back down, check the work, and reseal. As bad as it sounds, I still am glad I tried to do it. The next time I try to save a dollar, I will make sure I do not get cheap on the OMC sealants. AARRGGH<br />I realize it is hard to help cheap people, but I sure am glad you guys are around.<br />Thanks,<br />Don

 

[Dhadley]

Re: 1988 j110 after rebuild

What sealer was wrong?

 

[dmurray]

Re: 1988 j110 after rebuild

I used gasket maker 2(permatex). I am stubborn and decided to do it again myself. I went back and got Gel seal 2 and resealed the flanges. After I cleaned the carbs(the right way), installed two low lead head gaskets (110,110,115,115) ,I am up and running great. With the labor hours I spent, I can see why mechanics charge so much. I actually learned alot about the motor and it will help me maintain the motor better.

 

[realboats]

Re: 1988 j110 after rebuild

Researching which adhesives and sealing products to use on outboards has turned into a bit of an obsession. I was surprised to find some marine catalogs offering Permatex' entire line of rtv and anti-seize products for "marine use". Unless the dissimilar metals and corrosion theory is a myth, this can't possibly be right.<br /><br />Anyway, what is the difference between Gel Seal and Adhesive M? Will 3M #847 replace them both?They have both been referred to as anerobic in this group. It sounds like Adhesive M has only a few uses with the powerhead crankcase. This question probably seems dumb to some of you, but there's so many darn products out there that claim to do the same thing and some of the OMC stuff is either not available or incredibly expensive. <br /><br />Thanks!